What's new
By:
Ram Heavy Duty Forum

Register a free account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members through your own private inbox!

PW on 35s at Elevation

S

stickshifter

Active Member
Messages
159
Reaction score
188
Points
43
I have a couple of questions for people running 35s who live at elevation (let's say between 5,000-10,000 feet). For background: I live at 8,500 feet on a long dirt road that gets heavily wash-boarded. I commute from 8,500 down to 5,500 feet (only three days a week, thankfully), down (and up) a steep winding canyon, which is kind of hard on vehicles. I also drive up to the high mountains regularly in all four seasons (I have dedicated snow tires for winter, which is half our year). I drive rocky trails that require 4x4 to get to recreation, and I need decent clearance in the winter not just for recreation, but also to get in & out of my house.

1. Do you notice the PW struggle at all going up mountain passes or climbing up through canyons on the bigger tires?
2. Do you ever feel like you should re-gear? I know the jump from 33s to 35s is not a big one, and re-gearing from 4.10 to 4.56 seems like a waste of money (for such a minor change in gearing).
3. Has anyone re-geared to 4.56 or 4.88 with 35s?
4. Any regrets going to 35s?
5. Any regrets not going to 37s?

Thanks in advance!
 
Last edited:
I've never had a PW, but have some loosely relevant experience (2500 w/ same engine, at relatively similar altitude, just in reverse).

I live at ~6200 but head up to ~9500 at least once a week, but plenty of times I've been up and down multiple times per day.

My 2016 2500 with the same 6.4 Hemi had a 5" lift and 37s with the 3.73 rear end and had no issues. I never felt like there was anyone on the road I couldn't pass if/when needed, and never felt a need to re-gear.

With my new 2020 2500, I did opt for the 4.10 when I ordered. I haven't lifted it yet, but will be going with 37s again with zero concern and don't have any plans to re-gear either.
 
Also barely relevant, but a perspective.

I had a 16 PW. Went straight to 37s after about 6 months. It was fine with the 6sp and 4.10s. I think it was about the 3 year mark I decided to regear to 5.13s.

Everything just felt easier. Not quicker/faster, just easier, quieter, less throttle input. Might have had a small bump in MPGs. Driveshaft wasn't in perfect shape, so 80 was about max before a small vibe rolled in (equivalent driveshaft rpms to about 100 before).

I do agree that a single step never makes sense, especially given the available power of a V8/auto. I had no regrets or thoughts of 4.88s on 37s (again with the 6sp, I'm not sure on the 8sp changes).
 
LateToTheParty said:
I've never had a PW, but have some loosely relevant experience (2500 w/ same engine, at relatively similar altitude, just in reverse).

I live at ~6200 but head up to ~9500 at least once a week, but plenty of times I've been up and down multiple times per day.

My 2016 2500 with the same 6.4 Hemi had a 5" lift and 37s with the 3.73 rear end and had no issues. I never felt like there was anyone on the road I couldn't pass if/when needed, and never felt a need to re-gear.

With my new 2020 2500, I did opt for the 4.10 when I ordered. I haven't lifted it yet, but will be going with 37s again with zero concern and don't have any plans to re-gear either.
Click to expand...
Thanks! That's good to hear. The 6.4 has so much more power than my current V6 Tacoma, or my previous Jeep (also a naturally aspirated V6). Much appreciated!
 
RPS1030 said:
Also barely relevant, but a perspective.

I had a 16 PW. Went straight to 37s after about 6 months. It was fine with the 6sp and 4.10s. I think it was about the 3 year mark I decided to regear to 5.13s.

Everything just felt easier. Not quicker/faster, just easier, quieter, less throttle input. Might have had a small bump in MPGs. Driveshaft wasn't in perfect shape, so 80 was about max before a small vibe rolled in (equivalent driveshaft rpms to about 100 before).

I do agree that a single step never makes sense, especially given the available power of a V8/auto. I had no regrets or thoughts of 4.88s on 37s (again with the 6sp, I'm not sure on the 8sp changes).
Click to expand...
Interesting! At first, I would have guessed 4.88s with 37s, but with the six-speed 5.13s do make more sense. I bet the eight-speed would make it work with 4.88s. You happy with 37s? Any issues with ball joints or other front end components wearing / loosening up?
Thanks for your reply!
 
Guys on 37s - where are you keeping your spare? Truck bed? After-market rear bumper/tire carrier? Carrying a smaller spare under the truck in the spare location? I always carry a full-size spare, and I use my bed for other stuff, so I'd have to get an aftermarket bumper/tire carrier. Not sure I want to do that right off the bat...
 
stickshifter said:
Interesting! At first, I would have guessed 4.88s with 37s, but with the six-speed 5.13s do make more sense. I bet the eight-speed would make it work with 4.88s. You happy with 37s? Any issues with ball joints or other front end components wearing / loosening up?
Thanks for your reply!
Click to expand...

I loved the 37s. Had zero issues with the truck at about 70k when I sold it earlier this year. Often think about trying to get it back. Not enjoying the new diesel as much as that one and have looked at getting 37s on it.

stickshifter said:
Guys on 37s - where are you keeping your spare? Truck bed? After-market rear bumper/tire carrier? Carrying a smaller spare under the truck in the spare location? I always carry a full-size spare, and I use my bed for other stuff, so I'd have to get an aftermarket bumper/tire carrier. Not sure I want to do that right off the bat...
Click to expand...

I had a slightly larger that stock tire underneath (285/75/17 ~ 34") all the time. Then had some Mac's tie down hooks in the bed so I could run a 3-way strap over the fullsize matching spare for roadtrips/offroading. Had other tie-down spots for the cooler and such as well. The ring was removable so the bed floor was flat usually.
 
stickshifter said:
Guys on 37s - where are you keeping your spare? Truck bed? After-market rear bumper/tire carrier? Carrying a smaller spare under the truck in the spare location? I always carry a full-size spare, and I use my bed for other stuff, so I'd have to get an aftermarket bumper/tire carrier. Not sure I want to do that right off the bat...
Click to expand...
I alternated between a bunch of different setups for the spare. Roof rack, standing up in the bed, built a brace across the bed using strut channel, folding mount attached to bedslide, or left at home in the garage (all depended on the season/trip/plans). I also run 37s on my utility trailer, so when towing that I just relied on the trailer spare.
 
I can only speak to the ~5000 ft elevation since that where I live on 35s. It's never been an issue for me and the truck still has plenty of power. Just make sure you reprogram the truck for the correct tire size.

37's would be ideal, but they just aren't practical for me (spare, MPG, elevation, etc). Of course I say that now, but 37's are on my mind quite frequently.

B252334A-E1FC-4AFE-94D7-0F18D6C24670.jpeg
 
Last edited:
beachbunny said:
i bought an aluminess bumper for my 37 spare, works well
Click to expand...
The Aluminess website lists a max tire size of 35 inches for their tire carrier, and they don’t show a bumper for 2019 and later power wagons. Is the website wrong? Thanks!
www.aluminess.com

Aluminum Winch Bumpers, Roof Racks, Tire Carriers | Aluminess

Aluminum winch bumpers, roof racks, tire carriers, storage boxes, and off-road accessories for Ford, Chevy, Toyota, and Dodge trucks and vans.
www.aluminess.com
 
stickshifter,i talked to them on the phone before i bouht one, rep. said the reason for the 35 number was the 37 impeded the tailgate handle a bit, the real cocern was a weight factor of the arm which has a limit of 150#, my nitto 37 on aev wheel came in around 110#,i have a fwc on the bed with no tailgate ,so no issue and i like how the aluminess protects the rear lights,especially after backing into a tree on a rainy night, if you get one get the backup lights, definitely worth the extra money
 
beachbunny said:
stickshifter,i talked to them on the phone before i bouht one, rep. said the reason for the 35 number was the 37 impeded the tailgate handle a bit, the real cocern was a weight factor of the arm which has a limit of 150#, my nitto 37 on aev wheel came in around 110#,i have a fwc on the bed with no tailgate ,so no issue and i like how the aluminess protects the rear lights,especially after backing into a tree on a rainy night, if you get one get the backup lights, definitely worth the extra money
Click to expand...
Thanks for your reply and the info!
 
Not a PW, but For me, With the 8 speed and 3.73s on 35”s there is plenty of power across the board and nice low cruising RPMs. I recommend the AEV procal for calibrating your speedo/ computer at home
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top