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Plug In for cold temps

CRToney said:
I bought a 250w stick on oil pan heater for my truck. Less engine wear, faster warm up, I’ve installed them on all my 5.9 L trucks previously. Heat rises BTW.


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Click to expand...
Actually, heat can be applied via conduction and convection just as well in liquids. A stick on heater has to heat the heater element, and then the oil pan, and then finally the oil pan heats the oil. Furthermore, the heater element is exposed to frigid air on one side even after it increases temperature. A block heater heats the element, and then directly heats the oil. The element is not exposed itself to anything except for oil - so it's efficiency (while not 100% due to the variable of the actual block temperature) will be higher than the stick on heater. Both will work. I believe the block heater will be more effective given convection in liquids is very effective - and it's completely protected (unless of course you don't unplug it before driving - lol.) Just making the point that when dealing with fluids, it's not as simple as heat rising.

I should probably also mention that I believe that the block heater is 750 watts? So 3x the power in theory of the stick on heater.
 
H3LZSN1P3R said:
I just put this on mine you can do it too without hurting the sensors or look of the truck, in the picture with the plow you can see it nicely off to the side and weather tight
Click to expand...

I like this. Where did you get that receptacle? I think I may well want to do the exact same thing. Thanks!
 
Wmhjr said:
Actually, heat can be applied via conduction and convection just as well in liquids. A stick on heater has to heat the heater element, and then the oil pan, and then finally the oil pan heats the oil. Furthermore, the heater element is exposed to frigid air on one side even after it increases temperature. A block heater heats the element, and then directly heats the oil. The element is not exposed itself to anything except for oil - so it's efficiency (while not 100% due to the variable of the actual block temperature) will be higher than the stick on heater. Both will work. I believe the block heater will be more effective given convection in liquids is very effective - and it's completely protected (unless of course you don't unplug it before driving - lol.) Just making the point that when dealing with fluids, it's not as simple as heat rising.

I should probably also mention that I believe that the block heater is 750 watts? So 3x the power in theory of the stick on heater.
Click to expand...
The block heater is in the water jacket and heats the coolant which in turn heats the oil
 
Wmhjr said:
I like this. Where did you get that receptacle? I think I may well want to do the exact same thing. Thanks!
Click to expand...
Its a noco from amazon was 24$ cad so probably like 5$ us lol we get screwed here
 
H3LZSN1P3R said:
The block heater is in the water jacket and heats the coolant which in turn heats the oil
Click to expand...

Ah, my mistake! Same principles still apply, though clearly it would be less efficient. That being said, then I guess one additional advantage would be warming that coolant in such cool temps isn't a bad thing either. Also probably explains why the recommendation is for it to be plugged in for hours prior to start. Thinking about it, my guess would be that if you were only plugging it in for 30 minutes prior to start up, the stick on may have an advantage. However, if it's on for over an hour or more, then the OEM block heater would be far more effective.
 
Wmhjr said:
BTW, looking at this, did you put some sort of bezel or something on the other side of the lower air dam? Or maybe just use machine screws and lock nuts? Wondering if over time pulling out a tight cord may end up pulling the screws through the plastic of the air dam?
Click to expand...
If I were to do this mod, I'd find or craft a backing plate, ditch the self-tapping screws, then use nut/bolt combo to sandwich the bumper (or other plastic mounting surface) in between, for exactly the reason you cited.
 
ianacole said:
If I were to do this mod, I'd find or craft a backing plate, ditch the self-tapping screws, then use nut/bolt combo to sandwich the bumper (or other plastic mounting surface) in between, for exactly the reason you cited.
Click to expand...

Agreed I think. I also do think that you could get away with small stainless machine screws, and then large fender washers backed by locking nuts on the reverse side. If the fender washers were each at least an inch OD, I think it would probably be fine.
 
CRToney said:
I bought a 250w stick on oil pan heater for my truck. Less engine wear, faster warm up, I’ve installed them on all my 5.9 L trucks previously. Heat rises BTW.


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Click to expand...

I like oil pan heaters also, and I agree that in extreme cold there is a lot more than normal wear in the first few seconds of startup when the oil is that cold and thick.

But I had a bad experience a few years ago ...
I had a BMW 330 and they don't come with block heaters nor any way to put one in, so I had a dealer install an oil pan heater. 2 days later, I went to work and plugged it in. 10 minutes later a co worker arrived and said "you're car's on fire". I went out and the flames were just starting to curl up from the wheel wells. I had the car for 2 weeks and it was a total loss. Insurance did good by me and they tried to sue the dealer, but couldn't make it stick. The strong suspicion was that it was not installed correctly. That makes sense to me - I imagine those heaters would self destruct if there was any areas where they were not completely adhered, as then it would not transfer the heat properly.

I'm sure you are more careful than the tech at the dealer, but I would also encourage anyone doing the stick on pan heaters to make sure they are installed correctly. Unless of course you have really good insurance and have your eye on a new truck on the lot ;)

B
 
Wmhjr said:
Ah, my mistake! Same principles still apply, though clearly it would be less efficient. That being said, then I guess one additional advantage would be warming that coolant in such cool temps isn't a bad thing either. Also probably explains why the recommendation is for it to be plugged in for hours prior to start. Thinking about it, my guess would be that if you were only plugging it in for 30 minutes prior to start up, the stick on may have an advantage. However, if it's on for over an hour or more, then the OEM block heater would be far more effective.
Click to expand...
The only time the stick on has an advantage is with lots of wind chill as the wind across the oil pan will cool the oil faster than it can be heated but thats about -50*c + wind chill... unless its a top fuel dragster as they run straight 50 oil so they use a pan heater even in summer because the oil is like molasses lol
 
Wmhjr said:
BTW, looking at this, did you put some sort of bezel or something on the other side of the lower air dam? Or maybe just use machine screws and lock nuts? Wondering if over time pulling out a tight cord may end up pulling the screws through the plastic of the air dam?
Click to expand...
Actually no backing plate and just used the screw that it came with. I used a hole saw that made it fit snug in the hole, and then drilled the the pilot holes with a smaller drill for a tight fit with the screws. I may go back sometime and change out to bolts, however this is my second truck with this setup, and the first one held up just fine.
 
Wmhjr said:
Actually, heat can be applied via conduction and convection just as well in liquids. A stick on heater has to heat the heater element, and then the oil pan, and then finally the oil pan heats the oil. Furthermore, the heater element is exposed to frigid air on one side even after it increases temperature. A block heater heats the element, and then directly heats the oil. The element is not exposed itself to anything except for oil - so it's efficiency (while not 100% due to the variable of the actual block temperature) will be higher than the stick on heater. Both will work. I believe the block heater will be more effective given convection in liquids is very effective - and it's completely protected (unless of course you don't unplug it before driving - lol.) Just making the point that when dealing with fluids, it's not as simple as heat rising.

I should probably also mention that I believe that the block heater is 750 watts? So 3x the power in theory of the stick on heater.
Click to expand...

I use both the block heater and oil pan. 1000w

The block heater on our trucks is in the coolant not oil. It is very close to the oil cooler. I would assume this has been done for a reason.

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kobra said:
I like oil pan heaters also, and I agree that in extreme cold there is a lot more than normal wear in the first few seconds of startup when the oil is that cold and thick.

But I had a bad experience a few years ago ...
I had a BMW 330 and they don't come with block heaters nor any way to put one in, so I had a dealer install an oil pan heater. 2 days later, I went to work and plugged it in. 10 minutes later a co worker arrived and said "you're car's on fire". I went out and the flames were just starting to curl up from the wheel wells. I had the car for 2 weeks and it was a total loss. Insurance did good by me and they tried to sue the dealer, but couldn't make it stick. The strong suspicion was that it was not installed correctly. That makes sense to me - I imagine those heaters would self destruct if there was any areas where they were not completely adhered, as then it would not transfer the heat properly.

I'm sure you are more careful than the tech at the dealer, but I would also encourage anyone doing the stick on pan heaters to make sure they are installed correctly. Unless of course you have really good insurance and have your eye on a new truck on the lot ;)

B
Click to expand...

I’ve installed several with no problems. Very easy to inspect at each oil change.

Your BMW might have been similar to the 01 VW Golf TDI I had. After the engine blew the dealer didn’t reinstall oil pan heater. It was enclosed completely. They must have had fire problems I would imagine.


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Wmhjr said:
Agreed I think. I also do think that you could get away with small stainless machine screws, and then large fender washers backed by locking nuts on the reverse side. If the fender washers were each at least an inch OD, I think it would probably be fine.
Click to expand...
Its actually pretty secure with the selftapers it came with i cut a 2”id washer out of 1/8 aluminum on the plasma table to put behind it but i didnt bother as it held in great just with the plastic air dam
 
Wmhjr said:
I know I could do that. But then I've got that plug getting salt covered and grungy. I really liked the idea of a covered plug like I used to have on the '04. I REALLY like the idea of the Voltsafe thing, so nothing but magnets if somebody forgot to disconnect....
Click to expand...

Thanks so much for this! I had no idea it existed! Spoke with the company today, they were even on Dragons Den a few years ago.

The app is still in beta, new version should be out by Christmas and will get improved over time. They also just announced the product is on the shelf at various stores now:

voltsafe.com

VoltSafe Winter Is Now in More Than 160 Stores Nationwide - Voltsafe

VoltSafe Inc. Continues Successful Commercialization of VoltSafe Winter, Now in More Than 160 Retail Stores Nationwide Tuesday, December...
voltsafe.com voltsafe.com

I ordered one direct from their website.

---

I watched the YouTube video showing how it installs with a pair of zip ties and it looks like it should fit perfectly on the lower grille of our HD trucks. That works perfect for the 1 foot cord it has to go to the license plate area where the block heater cord is.

See around 1:29:


What I love about this in is in the freezing cold I can just "click" it on and not have to climb under my truck to find that damn cord and cover. Also if they wife need the truck that day, I know so won't drive off with the cord still plugged in!

When it arrives I'll do a review on here and likely an install video on YouTube.

Cheers
Tim
 
I actually returned my Voltsafe. The issue is that our trucks have active grills. You can't just shove the power cord through, so for me it ended up being a great idea that is not executable. The form factor of the kit does not allow a different mounting solution. Also, I have a light bar in the lower grill, so that area was also off limits.
 
Pshhh. I plug it in in my garage. I like it behind nice and warm right off the bat. Plus it help with fluid flow and lubrication at start up and cold temps.


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Lift89 said:
Pshhh. I plug it in in my garage. I like it behind nice and warm right off the bat. Plus it help with fluid flow and lubrication at start up and cold temps.


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Click to expand...

Lol. Well, I have 3 garage spaces. Two normal and one 18' wide. However that wide one is my shop and I'm always doing something in there. Plus, I have a 2 post lift in there, so it's pretty darned tight. The Ram is in there sometimes, but it's outside a lot too. I like to have the option to put it where I want and still warm it up.
 
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