What is that "allowance" . I've never heard about that.
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Payload capacity/tow question
- Thread starter EODMatt
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Nick
Well-Known Member
Options may not be light but they make the ride more enjoyable .
When they figure the max trailer weight.
They give 300lbs for passenger and so much for minimal options and hitch.
It just so happens the number worked out to 470 on all the trucks I did.
Here is the technical description
Inertia being ie: going over overpasses and hitting that dip, always jacks up the back. Well I'm more comfortable with that 6161 lbs of carrying capacity number. Maybe with the 26k fiver were considering , that 20% off that would be approximate pin weight of 5200 lbs, that maybe the overload on the air suspension is rated for the same as the rear axle or close to it. I would like to have hope that if the axle is rated for 9750 that the bags wouldn't cut you out short of that but we can only speculate as nobody seams to have encountered this scenario yet. Wich that's a very good thing i guess. This whole conversation has pretty much made up my mind on that final purchase of the 50 gal aux tank though. I was really looking forward to getting that and never having to worry about filling up but like I've said in the past, I'd probably just end right back up in the same situation ( on empty). That would be a 450-500 lb savings.
Again dd, you and others have been a great help. I'm not as worked up as I was. The p.o. p.o. mainly goes by gcwr, gvwr, gawr, so I should be able to work within those parameters
Yes, wheels and/or tires are almost always a limiting factor. However in this case, I think the factory air overload alarm would trip well before.
Truth be told, I love the factory air, and I have no intention of ever getting anything (significantly) larger than what we currently have. However, had I known there was any features disabled (like exhaust brake) when hitting that limit*, I probably would not have chosen factory air and installed aftermarket instead.
*I don't know that we have any 100% confirmation that e-brake disable occurs during overload as there's only one report, but it's certainly cause for concern for some. That said, there was another member that popped a bag running close to overload without being in Alt Trailer height mode when he hit a dip in the road and experienced some weight transfer .
I have seen so many people get bit by the sales man. I want to do my part to educate people what capacity means.
I drive on these roads too. And I like my family to arrive in one piece at our destination.
3 common mistakes people make. The commercial/advertisement truck rating...that is a very specific truck...but people think their limited will have it too.
The chart reader. The chart is for a tradesman...that same limited will be less.
And the guy who just doesnt understand the numbers. Goes by one and missed the important ones.
Good times
I drive on these roads too. And I like my family to arrive in one piece at our destination.
3 common mistakes people make. The commercial/advertisement truck rating...that is a very specific truck...but people think their limited will have it too.
The chart reader. The chart is for a tradesman...that same limited will be less.
And the guy who just doesnt understand the numbers. Goes by one and missed the important ones.
Good times
Btw, where did you come up with those estimated axle weights of the empty vehicle
I always understood all the numbers but never really paid much attention to the pl number untill I started putting pen to paper the other day and adding accessories and I was like H.S.. Now our big question is all in the capability of the bag system
Rich, you need to scale your truck loaded as if you were hauling to get any accurate baseline.
When I get a new setup, it goes to the scales. Do a weigh, drop the trailer, and do a reweigh. If you were a truck driver in a former life, you already know this.
CAT Scales now has an app. You don't even need to talk to the operator anymore unless you go inside to get a certified slip. Scale history is available through the app.
When I get a new setup, it goes to the scales. Do a weigh, drop the trailer, and do a reweigh. If you were a truck driver in a former life, you already know this.
CAT Scales now has an app. You don't even need to talk to the operator anymore unless you go inside to get a certified slip. Scale history is available through the app.
That's exactly what i need to do to see where I'm currently at and maybe we can find out some info on the air bags and the over load limiter and what happens when it actuates
From the chart. It is almost a 60/40 split.
And the CAT scale app is awesome. My wife wishes I never saw it. I weigh all the time.
Take your truck there empty...get your factual baseline.
Or go as brutal said and weigh loaded for the trip.
With the cost you guys are spending on trucks...the 12 bucks is good information
10/4 driver
For you little people! I would have considered a Laramie or a Limited but everyone on the dealers lots had the sunroof or panoramic, wich reduced head room 2-3 inches. *sigh* Big dumb guy doesn't fit.
Plum Cra Zy
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Couple of things, well maybe more, 1, I'm gonna guess that factory air bags are the same on all DRW trucks, so you will have at least the capacity of a 2wd single cab
Hemi. Which should 7k ish. 2, Axle ratings are for continuous running down the road at hwy speed at max load without overheating or failing. 3, I happened to talk to
a couple of different sales people when I was looking at new trucks because I wanted factory air ride too. They both said, "don't get it, save the $1600, they tend to be prone to failure mostly by sucking in dirt and burning out" so I did Air-Lift aftermarket. Little bit more hassle to fill but much less to go wrong. 4, I know a couple of people running
a 1000 lbs over on rear axle max on SRW and no issues so far, although they did up-size tires so as to not overload tire rating. (hauling slide-ins) Load that puppy up to rear axle
rating and watch your tire pressure and go have fun!
Hemi. Which should 7k ish. 2, Axle ratings are for continuous running down the road at hwy speed at max load without overheating or failing. 3, I happened to talk to
a couple of different sales people when I was looking at new trucks because I wanted factory air ride too. They both said, "don't get it, save the $1600, they tend to be prone to failure mostly by sucking in dirt and burning out" so I did Air-Lift aftermarket. Little bit more hassle to fill but much less to go wrong. 4, I know a couple of people running
a 1000 lbs over on rear axle max on SRW and no issues so far, although they did up-size tires so as to not overload tire rating. (hauling slide-ins) Load that puppy up to rear axle
rating and watch your tire pressure and go have fun!
10/4 crazy. Great info to know. Thanks
EMS_Pilot_66
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Wow am I confused. I’m totally lost right now on how much the 2500 CC CTD can truly handle for a 5’er(I’m assuming that’s a 5th wheel) . 
Yes I’m a total newb with towing lingo and towing itself. The better 1/2 and I are looking to live for awhile in a TT; being it a 5’er or TT. I’ve convinced her that we need to upgrade my 2019 Ram Laramie 1500 w/3.21 gear, as it just won’t pull anything with value or comfort. Now that I’ve convinced her I’m worried that the 2500 (yes she is cringing at the cost) won’t even handle a 5’er. Here is one we’re looking at. Now the Ram site says it can tow all this weight but reading these threads scare me. So I’m looking for honest real world answers and suggestions(besides get a 3500 DRW ) pocket book won’t allow that right now. Pics are the trailer specs, 2x4 and 4x4 CC CTD as I’ve already seen that the V8 Hemi won’t pull as much weight plus you get to visit a LOT of gas station attendants along the trail. Yes she’s cringing at the 9+k added cost of it 
. So can a 2500 Laramie/longhorn/limited handle this (what I consider) light 5’er?
Another question is Max Towing Means Max trailer weight? Or again, total newb, max Vehicle and trailer weight combined?
Thanks in advance and all the info you guys put on these sites. It really helps us less advanced cavemen.
Brian
Yes I’m a total newb with towing lingo and towing itself. The better 1/2 and I are looking to live for awhile in a TT; being it a 5’er or TT. I’ve convinced her that we need to upgrade my 2019 Ram Laramie 1500 w/3.21 gear, as it just won’t pull anything with value or comfort. Now that I’ve convinced her I’m worried that the 2500 (yes she is cringing at the cost) won’t even handle a 5’er. Here is one we’re looking at. Now the Ram site says it can tow all this weight but reading these threads scare me. So I’m looking for honest real world answers and suggestions(besides get a 3500 DRW ) pocket book won’t allow that right now. Pics are the trailer specs, 2x4 and 4x4 CC CTD as I’ve already seen that the V8 Hemi won’t pull as much weight plus you get to visit a LOT of gas station attendants along the trail. Yes she’s cringing at the 9+k added cost of it . So can a 2500 Laramie/longhorn/limited handle this (what I consider) light 5’er?Another question is Max Towing Means Max trailer weight? Or again, total newb, max Vehicle and trailer weight combined?
Thanks in advance and all the info you guys put on these sites. It really helps us less advanced cavemen.
Brian
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Wow am I confused. I’m totally lost right now on how much the 2500 CC CTD can truly handle for a 5’er(I’m assuming that’s a 5th wheel) .
Another question is Max Towing Means Max trailer weight? Or again, total newb, max Vehicle and trailer weight combined?
Thanks in advance and all the info you guys put on these sites. It really helps us less advanced cavemen.
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Brian
Unless you're looking at 1/2T towable fifth wheels, you will forever regret getting a 2500 diesel truck. There's just not enough payload left over. next thing you know, you'll want a larger fifth wheel, or carry a generator, or add a truck box or fuel cell, etc. I speak from experience.
You have to add hitch, gear, people, fuel, etc. Short bed? Slider hitch @250lbs.
Get the 3500 or stick with a gasser. If the gasser won't tow the weight you need, there's no way a 2500 diesel payload will work. MAYBE a stripped down tradesman, no way an optioned up Laramie or Limited.
Max tow is trailer pulling capability.
GCWR is everything truck+trailer
Fifth wheel will have 18-20% of the GVWR on the pin when wet. The dry weights are like these RAM numbers, nowhere realistic once you're loaded up.
My 32' Grand Design 303RLS is 12K GVWR, 2200 pin. My 3500 Limited is 3707 payload (had air ride). After loading up all gear and hitching, I still have 900 lbs available. 2500 would be more than 1000 lbs over it's payload.
I had a 16 ram tradesman diesel with rfe transmission, rambox short bed and we full time RV in our 35 ft fifth wheel and we loved it. Our fiver weighs almost 13k and it was capable of 17 k and it pulled it great. The fuel mileage was way better than this 3500 fuel hog. Yes we did have to have a specially installed slider hitch, but it worked great and I never had to worry about hitting my bed sides. Yes we decided to trade it in for the big boy 3500 that can tow anything. Reason being is we are going to buy allot heavier fifth wheel and needed more capability. Like brutal said, if I would of known from the get go that someday we would be getting a monstrous fiver that's 48 ft long, I would of just bought the 3500 from the start and saved myself thousands between two knew vehicles.
In saying all this , if in the future you plan on upgrading to a big 40+' toy hauler, then I would suggest you hold out until you can get the right truck for your needs on the first time. If your sure that your staying under 17,000 ( my opinion number), and you don't plan on living years upon years in the RV then the 2500 will be a great choice.
The 2500 is allot better on fuel and gets around town better. I personally would only buy the diesel model over the gasser due to its ability.
I would also only buy the fiver instead of the tt as its way more safer, rides way more better, has a ton more storage, and feals like a small appt on wheels. I am a full time rv er who used to be a truck driver. My views and opinions are my own and I urge you to do as much research and asking questions as you can before buying and try to foresee your future needs as best you can. I'd be happy to help anyway i can.
Again go
1: diesel
2: fiver
3: 3500/2500 depends on your long-term needs& wants
In saying all this , if in the future you plan on upgrading to a big 40+' toy hauler, then I would suggest you hold out until you can get the right truck for your needs on the first time. If your sure that your staying under 17,000 ( my opinion number), and you don't plan on living years upon years in the RV then the 2500 will be a great choice.
The 2500 is allot better on fuel and gets around town better. I personally would only buy the diesel model over the gasser due to its ability.
I would also only buy the fiver instead of the tt as its way more safer, rides way more better, has a ton more storage, and feals like a small appt on wheels. I am a full time rv er who used to be a truck driver. My views and opinions are my own and I urge you to do as much research and asking questions as you can before buying and try to foresee your future needs as best you can. I'd be happy to help anyway i can.
Again go
1: diesel
2: fiver
3: 3500/2500 depends on your long-term needs& wants