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Passive Regen

CdnHO

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Recently pulled my heavy 5th wheel 1700 miles and had the EVIC on the DPF page the entire way. It stayed at 0 the entire trip. I assume the truck was doing passive regens along the way, although there was no indication of this on the cluster. When doing a passive regen, is additional fuel injected into the DPF? No issues, but am curious how all this works.
 
Passive regen is 100% passive, no extra fuel, no retarding the timing, just enough heat being produced in the exhaust to clean the DPF without anything extra.

Towing requires enough work out of the engine to have adequate exhaust temps to passively regen. I have found the following with my truck in regards to passive regen.

At 22+ mpg there isn't any passive regen, 18-22 mpg is more of a net neutral, and anything less than 18 mpg will have continuous passive regen. Below 12 mpg and you're cleaning it failry quickly.
 
Passive regen is 100% passive, no extra fuel, no retarding the timing, just enough heat being produced in the exhaust to clean the DPF without anything extra.

Towing requires enough work out of the engine to have adequate exhaust temps to passively regen. I have found the following with my truck in regards to passive regen.

At 22+ mpg there isn't any passive regen, 18-22 mpg is more of a net neutral, and anything less than 18 mpg will have continuous passive regen. Below 12 mpg and you're cleaning it failry quickly.
This should be a sticky.
 
Recently pulled my heavy 5th wheel 1700 miles and had the EVIC on the DPF page the entire way. It stayed at 0 the entire trip. I assume the truck was doing passive regens along the way, although there was no indication of this on the cluster. When doing a passive regen, is additional fuel injected into the DPF? No issues, but am curious how all this works.
Just adding to the discussion:

There is no deliberate notification from the truck when it is passively regenerating. The only way you can tell is a drop in soot load on the in-dash DPF gauge. Aftermarket monitors such as a Banks iDash or Edge CTS3 can provide addition PIDs that allow you to monitor the parameters that determine passive regeneration.

It would be nice if Ram added a small indicator that would be able to help drivers identify when their driving conditions are sufficient for passive regeneration to occur.
 
Just watching the DPF gauge on my truck, I’ve noticed after some extended hwy driving at 65 mph or better for about 15 miles or so, once the exhaust is good and hot, a little “spirited” driving will help that dpf gauge drop to zero. Helps to loosen up and get rid of some of those burnt up particulates the filter catches.
 
It would be nice if Ram added a small indicator that would be able to help drivers identify when their driving conditions are sufficient for passive regeneration to occur.
I agree 100%, I like to have as much information at my disposal as possible. Would help to nail down the exact parameters of when a passive regen occurs.
 
Just watching the DPF gauge on my truck, I’ve noticed after some extended hwy driving at 65 mph or better for about 15 miles or so, once the exhaust is good and hot, a little “spirited” driving will help that dpf gauge drop to zero. Helps to loosen up and get rid of some of those burnt up particulates the filter catches.

I actually think that’s points more to the programming issue around airflow and filter soot loading. If it’s been passively regenerated then there isn’t anything to loosen up and get rid of. If we were loosing thing up and getting rid of them they would manifest with a dirty tailpipe.

My 0.02, but the programming for airflow, resistance, and soot loading is off at low airflow. The higher airflow tables, spirited driving, seem to be more accurate and why the gauge can drop with a little more airflow.
 
I agree, airflow has a lot to do with how the sensors read. Not arguing the technical aspect of it but, when passive regen is occurring it is happening at a greater temperature in the exhaust, which is with the engine speed up and In turn airflow is increased while pushing more air over the filter “loosening” up the burnt up particles (ash) and registering greater airflow in the sensor therefore bringing down the amount the dpf gauge shows on the Evic. That’s the easiest way to understand why the gauge goes to zero on the dash in my mind anyways.
 
It does seem like the DPF gets “blown out” when you do that, but I’m leaning more towards it just getting into a more accurate portion of the programming tables.

The DPF “should” have nothing needing blown out once it’s cooked and cleaned.
 
I actually think that’s points more to the programming issue around airflow and filter soot loading. If it’s been passively regenerated then there isn’t anything to loosen up and get rid of. If we were loosing thing up and getting rid of them they would manifest with a dirty tailpipe.

My 0.02, but the programming for airflow, resistance, and soot loading is off at low airflow. The higher airflow tables, spirited driving, seem to be more accurate and why the gauge can drop with a little more airflow.
Or is this something other than conventional soot that needs a little longer heat or more exhaust flow to “loosen” it up? Remnants of partially combusted additives introduced into the fuel by the operator? I’ve often wondered if some of these fuel additives aren’t contributing to the problems. After I stopped using additives, I noticed a very similar behavior with my truck. I have videos of it, but I don’t know if I can upload them here. In short: start the truck drive for a few minutes and get the truck to temp, DPF gauge showing 12%. Hit an on-ramp and accelerate moderately, allowing the truck to exceed 2,000rpm between the 4-5 and 5-6 shifts. Look down at the DPF gauge and watch it drop back to zero. The truck repeated this process for several tanks of fuel. Progressively getting better and better at not registering any soot at all. I have now traveled the same route I have been for 6 months, and the truck doesn’t even move the soot gauge.
My theory is that it was “working out” whatever was left over from burning the sub-par fuel or additives I was using prior. I’m now 6 regeneration cycles post-making changes and now the truck religiously runs the 24 hour cycles only. The DPF gauge doesn’t move.

I just fueled up on Monday. 50 gallons of the same fuel I’ve been using from BP. This time I added one small bottle of the Power Service (white bottle) to the tank due to the significant drop in temperatures predicted for this week and weekend. It will be interesting to see if there are any changes to the way the truck responds (soot loading, regeneration, etc).

I’ll be honest, it took a lot of nerve to dump anything into that tank aside from the fuel I’ve been using.
 
Or is this something other than conventional soot that needs a little longer heat or more exhaust flow to “loosen” it up? Remnants of partially combusted additives introduced into the fuel by the operator? I’ve often wondered if some of these fuel additives aren’t contributing to the problems. After I stopped using additives, I noticed a very similar behavior with my truck. I have videos of it, but I don’t know if I can upload them here. In short: start the truck drive for a few minutes and get the truck to temp, DPF gauge showing 12%. Hit an on-ramp and accelerate moderately, allowing the truck to exceed 2,000rpm between the 4-5 and 5-6 shifts. Look down at the DPF gauge and watch it drop back to zero. The truck repeated this process for several tanks of fuel. Progressively getting better and better at not registering any soot at all. I have now traveled the same route I have been for 6 months, and the truck doesn’t even move the soot gauge.
My theory is that it was “working out” whatever was left over from burning the sub-par fuel or additives I was using prior. I’m now 6 regeneration cycles post-making changes and now the truck religiously runs the 24 hour cycles only. The DPF gauge doesn’t move.

I just fueled up on Monday. 50 gallons of the same fuel I’ve been using from BP. This time I added one small bottle of the Power Service (white bottle) to the tank due to the significant drop in temperatures predicted for this week and weekend. It will be interesting to see if there are any changes to the way the truck responds (soot loading, regeneration, etc).

I’ll be honest, it took a lot of nerve to dump anything into that tank aside from the fuel I’ve been using.
While I’m only at about 8k miles, I’m a very routine oriented person. My routine has been drive on the interstate as long as possible to and from work, some spirited driving once the truck has been running a while and the exhaust is good and hot, I only get gas from the same gas station unless unavoidable (then I try to find one that looks busy) and never use any additives other than what’s in the tank at the pump. Doing that my DPF gauge almost never makes it to 25%, I’m almost always hitting the 24hr active regen cycle. Now if I run a few short trips the soot load level will jump back up but once I hit my interstate runs it drops back down.

I will note that my gauge will only go all the way to zero and stay there if I’m pulling my TT.
On my daily commute, the gauge will drop to zero but then shortly after will jump up to 1/8 and stay there.
 
While I’m only at about 8k miles, I’m a very routine oriented person. My routine has been drive on the interstate as long as possible to and from work, some spirited driving once the truck has been running a while and the exhaust is good and hot, I only get gas from the same gas station unless unavoidable (then I try to find one that looks busy) and never use any additives other than what’s in the tank at the pump. Doing that my DPF gauge almost never makes it to 25%, I’m almost always hitting the 24hr active regen cycle. Now if I run a few short trips the soot load level will jump back up but once I hit my interstate runs it drops back down.

I will note that my gauge will only go all the way to zero and stay there if I’m pulling my TT.
On my daily commute, the gauge will drop to zero but then shortly after will jump up to 1/8 and stay there.
My daily commute is different so that accounts for some of the difference in variables. My commute to work is about 15 minutes, all highway. So my truck sees 30 minutes of cumulative highway driving at a consistent 75mph every day. That’s not including any additional highway travel after work. It still does short trips too, but I’m predominantly highway. That absolutely helps to keep the soot load down as passive regeneration is regularly happening in my case. I’m also religious about plugging the truck in during cold weather (it’s on the block heater any time nighttime temperatures drop below 40°F). That also helps because the truck is up to temperature very quickly and doesn’t waste a lot of time in the warm-up strategy (which is very dirty)
 
Just adding to the discussion:

There is no deliberate notification from the truck when it is passively regenerating. The only way you can tell is a drop in soot load on the in-dash DPF gauge. Aftermarket monitors such as a Banks iDash or Edge CTS3 can provide addition PIDs that allow you to monitor the parameters that determine passive regeneration.

It would be nice if Ram added a small indicator that would be able to help drivers identify when their driving conditions are sufficient for passive regeneration to occur.
The truck had just finished an active regen before starting the 1700 mile trip. The gauge was at 0 and stayed there the entire 1700 miles. At my destination, the DPF gauge started to climb and at about 20% I took a trip of about 35 miles at 70 MPH (no trailer) and it must have done another passive regen as the gauge dropped to 0 without seeing any regen message just as I got home.
 
The truck had just finished an active regen before starting the 1700 mile trip. The gauge was at 0 and stayed there the entire 1700 miles. At my destination, the DPF gauge started to climb and at about 20% I took a trip of about 35 miles at 70 MPH (no trailer) and it must have done another passive regen as the gauge dropped to 0 without seeing any regen message just as I got home.

Unless you averaged over 70 mph on the trip you missed an active regen indication.
 
Unless you averaged over 70 mph on the trip you missed an active regen indication.
Had it on the DPF gauge the whole time. No regen indication. The speed limit was 70 but I probably drove faster but not by a whole lot. I do have the 4.10 axle so engine speed might be a consideration as well.
 
Had it on the DPF gauge the whole time. No regen indication. The speed limit was 70 but I probably drove faster but not by a whole lot. I do have the 4.10 axle so engine speed might be a consideration as well.

Just looking at what you posted for 1700 miles. In order to go 1700 miles without an active regen the average speed would have to be 70.8 mph or higher. Thats very difficult to obtain, so I think it’s far more likely you missed an active regen.

Did you track total hours for the trip?
 
Just looking at what you posted for 1700 miles. In order to go 1700 miles without an active regen the average speed would have to be 70.8 mph or higher. Thats very difficult to obtain, so I think it’s far more likely you missed an active regen.

Did you track total hours for the trip?
That was pulling the trailer for 1700.
 
That was pulling the trailer for 1700.

That’s what I gathered, so unlikely you averaged over 70 and more likely it was over 24 hours of run time and you missed the regen.

I’ve seen them as quick as 10-15 minutes while towing.
 
That’s what I gathered, so unlikely you averaged over 70 and more likely it was over 24 hours of run time and you missed the regen.

I’ve seen them as quick as 10-15 minutes while towing.
So are we talking passive or active regen? I have seen active regens when not towing but never any regen of any type while towing. Or is there a difference in terms of the display? I may have missed it but I pay pretty close attention to my instruments. And my average speed towing is probably around 55 or so.
 
So are we talking passive or active regen? I have seen active regens when not towing but never any regen of any type while towing. Or is there a difference in terms of the display? I may have missed it but I pay pretty close attention to my instruments. And my average speed towing is probably around 55 or so.

Active, they happen every 24 hours of runtime regardless of low soot loading in the DPF. The cleaner the DPF, which it would be from towing, the faster they are.

Soot based regens will reset the 24 hour timer.
 
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