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Oil Weight

Kennewick_P.Wagon

Kennewick_P.Wagon

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2022 Wagon with 67,000 miles and I'm thinking about going to a heavier oil. Anyone else do this and what weight do you recommend and why? Thank you in advance.
 
akguy09 said:
Heavier than 0W-40? Why
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My logic is that I'd like a safety buffer in the hotter months. 0-40 is a light oil and much of what I'm reading is that it doesn't need to be that light. I live in an area that gets well over 100 in the summer, plus I tow a 10K fifth wheel throughout the PNW mountains.
 
I have been wondering the same thing. In AZ we have several months over 100+ degrees. I believe the last few years nearly if not a full month of 110+. It was 71 outside on my way home from work today.
With that, I don’t tow but I do drive relatively long distances at times and idles a lotttt. Truck doesn’t consume oil, I change it relatively frequently even with signature series and wix xp.

As far as climate. With it hardly if ever reaching below freezing why would I not run 5 or 10w40 or 50? I have heard of several Hemi 5.7 and 6.4 guys locally claiming to run 10-40 or i believe it was rotella 15-40. The older I get the more inquisitive I’ve become and I am getting more involved in watching the oil geek guy on YouTube. though before I do anything different I want more data or information. I will be switching from AMSOIL back to PUP though starting next oil change.

Not curious enough to try something new viscosity wise, just curious enough to ask.
I’m no expert on anything though. If they were built to last we wouldn’t need so many (new vehicles that is)but, if we can make them last longer or work more efficiently and effectively why not.
 
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BadKarma said:
I have been wondering the same thing. In AZ we have several months over 100+ degrees. I believe the last few years nearly if not a full month of 110+. It was 71 outside on my way home from work today.
With that, I don’t tow but I do drive relatively long distances at times and idles a lotttt. Truck doesn’t consume oil, I change it relatively frequently even with signature series and wix xp.

As far as climate. With it hardly if ever reaching below freezing why would I not run 5 or 10w40 or 50? I have heard of several Hemi 5.7 and 6.4 guys locally claiming to run 10-40 or i believe it was rotella 15-40. The older I get the more inquisitive I’ve become and I am getting more involved in watching the oil geek guy on YouTube. though before I do anything different I want more data or information. I will be switching from AMSOIL back to PUP though starting next oil change.

Not curious enough to try something new viscosity wise, just curious enough to ask.
I’m no expert on anything though. If they were built to last we wouldn’t need so many (new vehicles that is)but, if we can make them last longer or work more efficiently and effectively why not.
Click to expand...
I’m old enough to remember when 100k was considered high mileage and folks were thrilled to make it that far without any major issues. Now a days, we hit a 100k and “meh, no big deal.” What I’m saying is, motor tolerances are tighter and oil technology has advanced, which is why you have the wide swing of viscosity in the same qt of oil. There is a reason why they specify a 0w oil at startup, yes I know - programmed obsolescence, fuel efficiency and so on. Folks that build these motors know more about them than I can ever pretend to or any other keyboard warrior ever will. So, I’d stick with the recommended viscosity by the manufacturer. My .02.
 
BadKarma said:
I have been wondering the same thing. In AZ we have several months over 100+ degrees. I believe the last few years nearly if not a full month of 110+. It was 71 outside on my way home from work today.
With that, I don’t tow but I do drive relatively long distances at times and idles a lotttt. Truck doesn’t consume oil, I change it relatively frequently even with signature series and wix xp.

As far as climate. With it hardly if ever reaching below freezing why would I not run 5 or 10w40 or 50? I have heard of several Hemi 5.7 and 6.4 guys locally claiming to run 10-40 or i believe it was rotella 15-40. The older I get the more inquisitive I’ve become and I am getting more involved in watching the oil geek guy on YouTube. though before I do anything different I want more data or information. I will be switching from AMSOIL back to PUP though starting next oil change.

Not curious enough to try something new viscosity wise, just curious enough to ask.
I’m no expert on anything though. If they were built to last we wouldn’t need so many (new vehicles that is)but, if we can make them last longer or work more efficiently and effectively why not.
Click to expand...

Curious about the switch “back” to PUP? It’s all I’ve used since it’s readily available. Usually the Amsoil folk preach its gospel. Asking for your opinion. Not starting an oil war.

As for the viscosity, of the oils you mentioned others trying…..they were all (X)w40. I would almost think(very unintelligent in the dept BTW) that something in the 50 range would be what you are after. That said, oil has come a long way. They also still know how to screw things up. Don’t think I accomplished anything here lol. I’m done.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
whitexc said:
Curious about the switch “back” to PUP? It’s all I’ve used since it’s readily available. Usually the Amsoil folk preach its gospel. Asking for your opinion. Not starting an oil war.

As for the viscosity, of the oils you mentioned others trying…..they were all (X)w40. I would almost think(very unintelligent in the dept BTW) that something in the 50 range would be what you are after. That said, oil has come a long way. They also still know how to screw things up. Don’t think I accomplished anything here lol. I’m done.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
PUP is really good oil
 
whitexc said:
Curious about the switch “back” to PUP? It’s all I’ve used since it’s readily available. Usually the Amsoil folk preach its gospel. Asking for your opinion. Not starting an oil war.

As for the viscosity, of the oils you mentioned others trying…..they were all (X)w40. I would almost think(very unintelligent in the dept BTW) that something in the 50 range would be what you are after. That said, oil has come a long way. They also still know how to screw things up. Don’t think I accomplished anything here lol. I’m done.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
switching back to pup due to cost really. Watching the oil geek PUP was always a contender for the best just not the best. Amsoil sure can be great, I’ve used them in my Harley’s, jeeps, muscle cars etc… but performance wise PUP is comparable and cheaper. I believe on Walmart two of the 4.5 qt jugs delivered with a wix filter is like 71 bucks
On amsoil with my discount 7 qts signature series And a filter was like 88-90. Amsoil is usually next day delivery vs Walmart is 2-3 day delivery.
 
BadKarma said:
switching back to pup due to cost really. Watching the oil geek PUP was always a contender for the best just not the best. Amsoil sure can be great, I’ve used them in my Harley’s, jeeps, muscle cars etc… but performance wise PUP is comparable and cheaper. I believe on Walmart two of the 4.5 qt jugs delivered with a wix filter is like 71 bucks
On amsoil with my discount 7 qts signature series And a filter was like 88-90. Amsoil is usually next day delivery vs Walmart is 2-3 day delivery.
Click to expand...
A six quart case of pup is $45 on Amazon

Edit: I missed “with filter” in your post but comparable price ~$7.50/qt. That’s how I’ve been getting it
 
On what planet is a 40 weight considered so thin that we need to buck specification for a "heavier" oil? Plot visc vs temperature for 0w-40 vs 5w-40 and ask yourself how much time you spend operating at the region where the differences are significant. (Edit - except there is no region where the differences are significant.)

Are the 6.4's flaws due to inadequate lubrication? Personally I'd stick with PUP or M1 FS 0w-40. Doing "better" is a tall order unless you're feeling spendy and want to call HPL or the likes.
 
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johnmyster said:
Plot visc vs temperature for 0w-40 vs 5w-40 and ask yourself how much time you spend operating at the region where the differences are significant.

Are the 6.4's flaws due to inadequate lubrication? Personally I'd stick with PUP or M1 FS 0w-40. Doing "better" is a tall order unless you're feeling spendy and want to call HPL or the likes.
Click to expand...
Certainly in general the thin oil / close tolerances to push the limit for tiny increments of emissions improvements is by all means a problem. But, that said, my Tundra V8 wants 0W 20, and as reliable a source as any, a life-long Toyota mechanic (Car Care Nut on YouTube - great guy, great videos) will explain that Toyotas have always had tight clearances and its part of what's made them (in the old days lol) uber reliable, however that's also in part due to precise (but tiny) oilers around the valves, heads, etc. -- so going away from factory viscosity is asking for trouble there, IE little oiler holes designed for that thin oil.

Hopefully Trumps EO's might help walk some of this take it to the bleeding edge tendency back a bit (tho disposable products is still what they're going to want to sell...)

But from what I'm able to discern about the truck 6.4 Hemi (and of course this is relegated to weighing different opinions vs. having a definitive source of truth) what sounds most logical to me is the oil pump rather than the oil - having a variable speed oil pump in an HD truck (to save 0.001% in emissions or MPG or whatever) seems to be tripping over the same design folly unnecessarily, as of course is the cylinder de-activation in an HD rig that doesn't even have to do this for EPA MPG purposes (??) IE the likelihood of low oil pressure at idle for these rigs (and probably the Godzilla Fords - and maybe ALL of these newer gen engines) seems a likely issue, thus excessive idling times being apt to be one of the risk factors for premature wear/failure on the rotation assemblies that might go unnoticed / underestimated, etc.

Mine (2021 PW) I just got is only 35K miles, but had a snowplow mount on it, I picked it up from Wisconsin, and does have ~30% idle hours. So I'm pondering what that means / where I should go with that (other than not add to the problem) --- but I think if I wanted to truly add insurance, going for the larger volume oil pump (from the Hellcat 6.4) is what would make sense to me to do (just have to add a slight limiter to that install so you don't confuse the ECU into tripping trouble codes from the suddenly high readings), tho apparently it's tricky to do without disassembling the entire bottom end, so that's what I'm arguing with myself over (benefit vs burden...). That's what I'm currently contemplating, but watching Oil Geek etc. has convinced me to stay with PUP OW-40.

Guess that means my opinion is I'm not sure changing oil viscosity (from an oil that by all accounts seems VERY good, including from Oil Geek etc.) is much of a confidence booster. OCD level oil change intervals with factory spec Oil I'm betting would beat out changing viscosity, something shared in common b/w Oil Geek, Dave's Garage (the Utah engine builder) and Car Care Nut [respective Youtubers who are legit pros / decades in the industry / top of their field types, with no hype to sell on this particular subject] Dave even has Oil Geek (Lake Speed) on some of his episodes. As Dave says alot / has a T-shirt for - "I'm damn busy rebuilding engines - go change your oil" lol). I think particular heed on this subject goes to the Toyota experience (Car Care Nut) who repeatedly emphasizes that historical Toyota reliability was tied to tight tolerances AND tight manufacturing quality control (the Tundra V6 Engineers apparently don't speak Japanese...) and in some cases that included thinner oil spec to match those little oil channels and the overall engine design. Again, his repeated emphasis is that in the engine failures he's dissected, including those types, he lays it FAR more often into extended oil change intervals -> sludge -> interference with Oil flow into those little channels (defeating the tight tolerances and tempting fate) vs. "bad oil"... I think now that also includes most designs aiming at that just out of warranty interval, that 120-150K average. So probably all of the above more than 0% at fault, but I'm apt to think it's >50% oil interval and probably another 30% this dumb idea of saving the planet by destroying 5 figure engines prematurely for 1-2% improvement in emissions/MPG that even leads down this road of designing against these tolerances / this oil viscosity, etc. and for that other 20%, as we say in the medical biz, "Idiopathic Multifactorial" [pun for we don't know....].

So the new version of "abusing" an engine may ironically be letting it idle. At a time where we also drive these nice comfortable trucks in bumper to bumper rush hour and while reading the newspaper / listening to the nice stereo waiting for spouse at the market, etc. - IE as if they are commuter cars, etc. etc. Something perhaps ironically that old Chevy 454 was better spec'd for than the 6.4 Hemi -- 10MPG (and 40+ PSI Oil) coasting down a hill with a tailwind or towing a house up a hill with a headwind :)
 
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Rockcrawlindude said:
A six quart case of pup is $45 on Amazon

Edit: I missed “with filter” in your post but comparable price ~$7.50/qt. That’s how I’ve been getting it
Click to expand...
Yea looks like now the SRT Pack is like 58 bucks and the gallon jugs are unavailable. maybe I’ll check out
 
johnmyster said:
On what planet is a 40 weight considered so thin that we need to buck specification for a "heavier" oil? Plot visc vs temperature for 0w-40 vs 5w-40 and ask yourself how much time you spend operating at the region where the differences are significant. (Edit - except there is no region where the differences are significant.)

Are the 6.4's flaws due to inadequate lubrication? Personally I'd stick with PUP or M1 FS 0w-40. Doing "better" is a tall order unless you're feeling spendy and want to call HPL or the likes.
Click to expand...
PUP has convinced me from a performance side and cost savings that I do not need to deviate due to preference anymore.


As for viscosity changes, I don’t really have plans to switch anything up. It was more of a conversation point—I’m curious whether someone more knowledgeable than me actually runs a 10W-40, 15W-40, or 10W-50 and has real data or results to back it up. I understand my truck isn’t an oval-track monster or a quarter-mile car that’s constantly running hot. But in conditions like the Phoenix heat island, where even my driveway’s surface temperature can cook a steak, I wonder whether an engine benefits from the added protection of a heavier oil—or if the tolerances are tight enough that it would just create other issues.
 
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