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Oil Thread - 6.4 Hemi

Just an fyi. I found a good resource. Lake Speed Jr “The Motor Oil Geek” on youtube. Anything and everything you would want to know about oil from an expert science guy. Here’s one about Mobil 1 and PUP 0w40 being analyzed
 
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Zeeman said:
Thanks I will try one at winter time. Fine now during summer with cheaper filters.
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I changed to wix filter but using Mobil 0-40w european car formula. I need more time but think its still present but to a lesser event. I may try red line oil 0-40w or 5w-40 based on another post. Also learned oil filters have check valves that is supposed to allow cold oil to flow better due to viscosity at cold or even if filter is clogged to prevent engine damage. I find this start up issue really discearning as metalic sound cant be good for long term durability. I question my oil choice now. Or may try this Pennzoil Platinum ultimate or PUP as they say.
 
Very interesting reading through most of this... I've never given much thought to oil other than using the correct viscosity, and using Valvoline Synthetic with a Wix filter. I used Pennzoil synthetic once in my old 2003 Grand Prix 3.1L about 18 years ago and somehow that car burned 2 quarts of it during that OCI. I switched back to Valvoline for that car and every car and SUV subsequent to it and haven't had any further issues, so I wrote off Pennzoil completely.

My truck just hit 500 miles yesterday, so I'm planning on draining the break-in oil and using a standard Wix 57060 and Valvoline 0w40 European formula, since the price is better and it has better local availability. It has the API SN donut, so it meets the OM's requirement of "equivalent 0w40 with API donut". Naturally they also list all the latest Chrysler specifications under "Recommended for", which is not the same as "Approved/certified", but I find difficulty believing they would list it without some level of confidence that they could actually meet/exceed it.

I would think if the 6.4 Hemi was so sensitive that PUP is absolutely required, we would be hearing tons of instances of failures related to not using PUP, as opposed to just issues with overly long OCIs and long idle times.
 
B4ZINGA said:
Very interesting reading through most of this... I've never given much thought to oil other than using the correct viscosity, and using Valvoline Synthetic with a Wix filter. I used Pennzoil synthetic once in my old 2003 Grand Prix 3.1L about 18 years ago and somehow that car burned 2 quarts of it during that OCI. I switched back to Valvoline for that car and every car and SUV subsequent to it and haven't had any further issues, so I wrote off Pennzoil completely.

My truck just hit 500 miles yesterday, so I'm planning on draining the break-in oil and using a standard Wix 57060 and Valvoline 0w40 European formula, since the price is better and it has better local availability. It has the API SN donut, so it meets the OM's requirement of "equivalent 0w40 with API donut". Naturally they also list all the latest Chrysler specifications under "Recommended for", which is not the same as "Approved/certified", but I find difficulty believing they would list it without some level of confidence that they could actually meet/exceed it.

I would think if the 6.4 Hemi was so sensitive that PUP is absolutely required, we would be hearing tons of instances of failures related to not using PUP, as opposed to just issues with overly long OCIs and long idle times.
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Not really a matter of failures, but PUP, and oils from Amsoil and Red Line, contain higher levels of moly which the Hemi's tend to like. Just reduces the "hemi tick".

It's not my truck or money, but I'd get the oil changes done at the dealer until the warranty is up. Not much more than doing it yourself, and it's in their system so there's no questions about maintenance "IF" something happens. They look for reason to deny, not for reasons to approve.
 
B4ZINGA said:
Very interesting reading through most of this... I've never given much thought to oil other than using the correct viscosity, and using Valvoline Synthetic with a Wix filter. I used Pennzoil synthetic once in my old 2003 Grand Prix 3.1L about 18 years ago and somehow that car burned 2 quarts of it during that OCI. I switched back to Valvoline for that car and every car and SUV subsequent to it and haven't had any further issues, so I wrote off Pennzoil completely.

My truck just hit 500 miles yesterday, so I'm planning on draining the break-in oil and using a standard Wix 57060 and Valvoline 0w40 European formula, since the price is better and it has better local availability. It has the API SN donut, so it meets the OM's requirement of "equivalent 0w40 with API donut". Naturally they also list all the latest Chrysler specifications under "Recommended for", which is not the same as "Approved/certified", but I find difficulty believing they would list it without some level of confidence that they could actually meet/exceed it.

I would think if the 6.4 Hemi was so sensitive that PUP is absolutely required, we would be hearing tons of instances of failures related to not using PUP, as opposed to just issues with overly long OCIs and long idle times.
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I bought my truck used with 31,000 miles on it (2016 2500, 6.4L) and now have 82,000 miles. I have used Amsoil 0w40 and Amsoil filters every oil change with no issues at all.
 
RAM Stag said:
I bought my truck used with 31,000 miles on it (2016 2500, 6.4L) and now have 82,000 miles. I have used Amsoil 0w40 and Amsoil filters every oil change with no issues at all.
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Amsoil doesn’t have a filter for the 6.4.
 
RAM Stag said:
Well I buy one from them every time I get the oil. Maybe it isn't "Amsoil" brand, but they do carry one.
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They sell a Wix filter which is different from an Amsoil filter.

They offer a cheaper wix filter for just about every application.
 
I see this is an older thread but I saw an interesting video with Lake Speed who's probably the most respected oil expert on YouTube. He mentioned that 0w40 is one of two grades that shear out of viscosity the fastest regardless of brand. Since Viscosity is the MOST important part of an oil 's job it would seem counter productive to do extended periods between changes. I use Champ XL filters which cost me about $5 but filter 99% down to 20 microns. I'm starting out using PUP oil but will be changing every 4-5000 miles with filter. I'll be doing analysis to see what works best for me.
 
GrumpyolMan said:
I see this is an older thread but I saw an interesting video with Lake Speed who's probably the most respected oil expert on YouTube. He mentioned that 0w40 is one of two grades that shear out of viscosity the fastest regardless of brand. Since Viscosity is the MOST important part of an oil 's job it would seem counter productive to do extended periods between changes. I use Champ XL filters which cost me about $5 but filter 99% down to 20 microns. I'm starting out using PUP oil but will be changing every 4-5000 miles with filter. I'll be doing analysis to see what works best for me.
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Champ filters??
 
brv10 said:
Champ filters??
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Champion laboratories makes a lot of OEM and other brand filters. If you go to Rock Auto's website and look up the XL version of their filters they are for synthetic oil and run less than $5. I think the 6.4 HEMI filter ( PH48XL) is $3.85.
 
GrumpyolMan said:
Champion laboratories makes a lot of OEM and other brand filters. If you go to Rock Auto's website and look up the XL version of their filters they are for synthetic oil and run less than $5. I think the 6.4 HEMI filter ( PH48XL) is $3.85.
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I will stick with the SRT filter, Champion doesn't give me a good feeling due to the price and the QC being different for each company.
 
Yes, 0W40 shears out of grade quickly. That's why on the cars that use this engine (Challenger/Charger) the oil spec in the manual falls all the way to 5,000 miles.

For this reason I am strongly considering using a quality 5W40 from here on out. I currently have a 0W40 PUP/5W30 VRP (Valvoline Restore and Protect) cocktail in my 392 and will be draining it in a few weeks and will likely run the 5W40 from here on out. I'll probably try to find one that has a similar chemistry (zinc, phosporous, etc) to the PUP and just run that.
 
WXman said:
Yes, 0W40 shears out of grade quickly. That's why on the cars that use this engine (Challenger/Charger) the oil spec in the manual falls all the way to 5,000 miles.

For this reason I am strongly considering using a quality 5W40 from here on out. I currently have a 0W40 PUP/5W30 VRP (Valvoline Restore and Protect) cocktail in my 392 and will be draining it in a few weeks and will likely run the 5W40 from here on out. I'll probably try to find one that has a similar chemistry (zinc, phosporous, etc) to the PUP and just run that.
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Everyone has a right to their opinion. I saw a Video from Alex The Heavy Duty Mechanic who's up north in Canada saying he changed his oil every 3000 miles with Mobil1 and Wix filters in his 6.4 hemi.
I'm in Western New York. I've been using the Champ XL filters for a while now on my 09 TRX4. I change my oil every 4000 miles. On the new 2500 I'll start with pup like everyone else. If I don't like the used oil analysis, I'll try others starting with Valvoline, Castrol, Mobil 1, and even Super tech.
 
I don't doubt that driven is a good oil but as frequently as I change it there are quite a few good options out there. Triax is another oil someone mentioned. I'll stick with the regular known brands
 
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