OEM puck system

[Smokerella]

I have a 2022 Ram 3500 diesel CCSB. The OEM pucks are not installed (cass's & holes) but in the 3500 the brackets for the system are already welded to the frame. The dealer will not install the 5th wheel prep kit (cass's or drill the holes) as they say that will void the corrosion warranty on the box. Aftermarket 5th wheel hitch dealers are telling me the brackets on there from the factory will need to be cut to install an ISR system as the braackets will interfere with there frame attachment hardware (Curt, Pullrite, B&W). I am okay getting an aftermarket ISR but not cutting the exisisting brackets. Has anyone experienced this problem?

 

[H3LZSN1P3R]

Get the pucks and its not hard to install put a bit of paint on the drilled holes after and it wont rust, the corrosion warranty can not be voided like that the only part you could not claim is if it did rust around the holes you drilled but say if the fenders rusted then it would still be covered.

 

[AH64ID]

Find a new dealer. It’s an easily installed option, nothing to cut/weld on the frame.

 

[Grateful Dad]

^^^^^^^^^What they said. I installed the OEM kit in my garage by myself. Easiest part was drilling the holes in the bed so if the brackets are already there/mounted you’re on easy street my friend.

 

[Smokerella]

Thanks for the replies and info, just unbolting and raising the box to get the pucks in is a pain.

The cutting I was referring to was if I went with an aftermarket above bed rail, those systems (curt, pullrite) said they would need to cut the OEM brackets as they were in the way to fasten their mounting brackets to the frame, doesn’t make sense to me as their install instructions show no cutting or modifying. Anyone with experience installing curt or pullrite above bed rails in a 3500?

Thanks again.

 

[MEGA HO]

I've ordered my '19 3500 with 5th wheel / GN prep, received without. After confirming that ordered option was in fact missing, dealer tried to wiggle out of it by offering either a GN or 5er (apparently 2 different options that need to be ordered separately), they tried to convince me to go with just GN and to use a 5er aftermarket system what goes into the GN hole. I refused, said I want to have all 5 holes + an outlet in my box as I was supposed to. Due to parts shortage the wait times were crazy long, they asked if I want to go aftermarket and get all that sooner. Checked with my local hitch place and got 5er / GN + a GN ball and chain anchors as a bonus. I paid and dealer paid me back.
Never ever anyone brought up this nonsense about cutting something on the frame of voiding warranties. Find a different dealer and a different hitch place.

 

[Grateful Dad]

@Smokerella raising the bed is only needed for the 2 rear brackets and it fairly easy. All I did for each side was loosen/remove the 2 rear most bed bolts then put them back in about 2 or 3 threads. This keeps the bed aligned and gives enough length on the bolt to raise the bed and get the bracket in (the rear bracket has a locating pin and it’s the only reason the bed needs to be lifted). To raise the bed I put a bottle jack on top of the rear tire and a used block of 6x6 centered in the wheel well to every so slightly raise the bed, worked like a charm. Do one side at a time, piece of cake.

 

[Smokerella]

Thanks all for the replies, learned more in 5 posts than 2 weeks with dealer and aftermarket installers!!

 

[scf8169]

Thanks for the replies and info, just unbolting and raising the box to get the pucks in is a pain.

The cutting I was referring to was if I went with an aftermarket above bed rail, those systems (curt, pullrite) said they would need to cut the OEM brackets as they were in the way to fasten their mounting brackets to the frame, doesn’t make sense to me as their install instructions show no cutting or modifying. Anyone with experience installing curt or pullrite above bed rails in a 3500?

Thanks again.

But if you put the puck system in, you get the puck mount fifth wheel attachment, a RAM branded one or a Curt, not the above bed rail system. RAM's trailering equipment is made by Curt, or is built exactly the same anyway. And really, I would suggest only putting the gooseneck mounts, center and rear mounts for chain, and change my trailer connector to a shock absorbed gooseneck mount. About the same amount of money as the fifth wheel mount.

 

[Smokerella]

But if you put the puck system in, you get the puck mount fifth wheel attachment, a RAM branded one or a Curt, not the above bed rail system. RAM's trailering equipment is made by Curt, or is built exactly the same anyway. And really, I would suggest only putting the gooseneck mounts, center and rear mounts for chain, and change my trailer connector to a shock absorbed gooseneck mount. About the same amount of money as the fifth wheel mount.

I like your plan and agree but the problem is in the jurisdiction I live, because of the weight of the trailer (15000lbs GVW) I require a CDL. There is an exemption in the legislation that if I am hauling a "living quarters" for personal use and the attachment is a 5th wheel only I do not need a CDL. GN do not apply and would require a CDL. Yuck!

 

[AH64ID]

But if you put the puck system in, you get the puck mount fifth wheel attachment, a RAM branded one or a Curt, not the above bed rail system. RAM's trailering equipment is made by Curt, or is built exactly the same anyway. And really, I would suggest only putting the gooseneck mounts, center and rear mounts for chain, and change my trailer connector to a shock absorbed gooseneck mount. About the same amount of money as the fifth wheel mount.

There aren’t many good reasons to go above the bed rail on these newer trucks. The puck system is superior.

You don’t have to use the mopar or Curt 5th wheel mount with the pucks, there are lots of options.

I’m using a B&W and it’s a great setup.

The goosebox is a good option, but I wouldn’t run a Gen-Y.

 

[Grateful Dad]

I like your plan and agree but the problem is in the jurisdiction I live, because of the weight of the trailer (15000lbs GVW) I require a CDL. There is an exemption in the legislation that if I am hauling a "living quarters" for personal use and the attachment is a 5th wheel only I do not need a CDL. GN do not apply and would require a CDL. Yuck!

If you don’t need the goose then just buy the 5th wheel prep (the puck system). They are 2 different parts………….

And I’d go with the B&W if you decide you want or need a goose, better setup IMO.

I purchased and installed the factory 5th wheel prep and the B&W goose.

 

[Grateful Dad]

There aren’t many good reasons to go above the bed rail on these newer trucks. The puck system
Is superior.

You don’t have to use the mopar or Curt 5th wheel mount with the pucks, there are lots of options.

I’m using a B&W and it’s a great setup.

The goosebox is a good option, but I wouldn’t run a Gen-Y.

Don’t want to derail the OP’s thread but curious why you wouldn’t run a GenY? I have one and love it but curious to hear your thoughts.

 

[AH64ID]

If you don’t need the goose then just buy the 5th wheel prep (the puck system). They are 2 different parts………….

And I’d go with the B&W if you decide you want or need a goose, better setup IMO.

I purchased and installed the factory 5th wheel prep and the B&W goose.

That’s exactly what I would do if I was adding the option to a truck without them.

Don’t want to derail the OP’s thread but curious why you wouldn’t run a GenY? I have one and love it but curious to hear your thoughts.

They are too short, so I would have to open/close the tailgate mid hookup every time. You then can’t drop the tailgate with the trailer hooked up, or utilize the forward storage compartment. Maybe they would work better on some trailers, but I haven’t seen one yet.

The Gen-Y would put my trailer ~4” closer to the rear bumper of the truck. That’s too close, IMO.

 

[RKF]

I have a 2022 Ram 3500 diesel CCSB. The OEM pucks are not installed (cass's & holes) but in the 3500 the brackets for the system are already welded to the frame. The dealer will not install the 5th wheel prep kit (cass's or drill the holes) as they say that will void the corrosion warranty on the box. Aftermarket 5th wheel hitch dealers are telling me the brackets on there from the factory will need to be cut to install an ISR system as the braackets will interfere with there frame attachment hardware (Curt, Pullrite, B&W). I am okay getting an aftermarket ISR but not cutting the exisisting brackets. Has anyone experienced this problem?

You are much better off installing the B&W under bed hitch. Much stronger than the OEM set-up.

 

[AH64ID]

You are much better off installing the B&W under bed hitch. Much stronger than the OEM set-up.

The OP needs a 5th wheel setup. The pucks are stronger than the GN Companion.

 

[RKF]

The OP needs a 5th wheel setup. The pucks are stronger than the GN Companion.

If the puck system was paid full during the purpose, the dealership needs to be accountable. Otherwise, I would go to a reputable RV shop and have it done right.

 

[AH64ID]

If the puck system was paid full during the purpose, the dealership needs to be accountable. Otherwise, I would go to a reputable RV shop and have it done right.

Plenty of options for getting it installed. The dealership should be as capable as most rv shops. It’s not a difficult task.

 

[Grateful Dad]

That’s exactly what I would do if I was adding the option to a truck without them.



They are too short, so I would have to open/close the tailgate mid hookup every time. You then can’t drop the tailgate with the trailer hooked up, or utilize the forward storage compartment. Maybe they would work better on some trailers, but I haven’t seen one yet.

The Gen-Y would put my trailer ~4” closer to the rear bumper of the truck. That’s too close, IMO.

Appreciate the feedback. I have one of those trailers it’s works great for, no issue open/closing the tailgate and I can still squeeze my not so skinny self between the the camper and tailgate when it’s down.

 

[H3LZSN1P3R]

You are much better off installing the B&W under bed hitch. Much stronger than the OEM set-up.

B&W is not stronger than the OEM setup they are both rated the same which is past what the trucks can legally tow. furthermore the puck system safety chains are much stronger the the little u bolts on the B&W