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No 12v power on 7 way Trailer Plug Wiring Connector. Need Help

Still a work in progress as I haven't had time to revisit, but for the trailer fuse, here' s the detail.

These ARE M-case fuses, but I prefer the Bussman style "FMM"

F3030 Amp PinkMCASE(FMM)/Trailer Tow Receptacle / Trailer Tow (Separate E-Brake)/Trailer Tow (BUX)

1640974277788.png

1640974290316.png

GenericBussman
A - Micro 2.
B - Micro 3.
C - Maxi.
D - Mini.
E - M Case.FMM
F - J Case.
G - J Case Low Profile.FMX
H - Slotted M Case.
 
Well IT was the fuse located at #30. Previous owner might of blew or im actually wondering how it did blow. Went to wally world for the fuse....no luck. Then oriely. Got pink 30 that I THOUGHT was the correct size.....turns out it wasn't. This one is slightly bigger. WHY DIDNT I BRING IT WITH ME TO THE STORE.....I wish I knew lol. Well was bummed when I found out wrong size. I got 1 hour until dealership closes. BUT BUT BUT then I LOOK thoroughly at fuse box to find out there is an EXTRA fuse located top left corner of fuse box. In business now. Wanted to let all know the update as well as the fact there are extra fuses in the fusebox....maybe save someone the trouble.
 
2019 Ram 2500 BH ... have a problem with my trailer lights .. checked the bumper plug with a test light (both 4 pin and 7 pin test the same) ... i have tail lights, left turn signal BUT no right turn signal ... signals all work on the trk ... i have trailer tech package, but have NOT tested the in bed plug .. any ideas??
 
2019 Ram 2500 BH ... have a problem with my trailer lights .. checked the bumper plug with a test light (both 4 pin and 7 pin test the same) ... i have tail lights, left turn signal BUT no right turn signal ... signals all work on the trk ... i have trailer tech package, but have NOT tested the in bed plug .. any ideas??
The fuse for trailer right signal is blown im sure
 
do you know which fuse that is AND what size/style it is???
Look in the lid of your fuse box it will tell you what fuse is what…. And im not sure what they list em as they are some sort of mini blade fuse but low profile
 
you we right, opened the fuse box, used the chart in this thread, found the Macro 20a fuse and found it blown... did not have this size fuse (Macro) neither did TSC but Advance Auto had all sizes and good stock ... plugged in the new fuse and walla right turn signal ... you and this thread saved me LOTS of time ... as for the fuse box lid, whose idea of a joke is that, black letters on black background ... i am 72 yrs old not 12 yrs old ... thanxs again @H3LZSN1P3R ... wife said your the BEST
 

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interesting tread, I am having an issue when I meter pin 4 and show same or very close voltage to what the truck is showing at front at battery. When I connect my 7 pin to my 5th wheel voltage drops. I have determined that when I connect something causes pin 4 to disconnect from the truck and voltage drops to what ever the camper battery is showing. the second I disconnect the 7 pin voltage restores to alternator voltage. Where to I start looking? appreciate any insight.
 
interesting tread, I am having an issue when I meter pin 4 and show same or very close voltage to what the truck is showing at front at battery. When I connect my 7 pin to my 5th wheel voltage drops. I have determined that when I connect something causes pin 4 to disconnect from the truck and voltage drops to what ever the camper battery is showing. the second I disconnect the 7 pin voltage restores to alternator voltage. Where to I start looking? appreciate any insight.
Do you have a molded plug on the trailer? If so show a pic of the pins on it. It could be the old style that causes voltage drop due to lose terminals
 
Do you have a molded plug on the trailer? If so show a pic of the pins on it. It could be the old style that causes voltage drop due to lose terminals
I was thinking it could be the trailer plug, so I replaced it with a Heavy duty 8 foot. 10 ga on power and ground. what is weird is that when I don't have the truck connected I show the same voltage at pin 4 as dash alt voltage. but when I connect the 7 pin voltage drops to voltage on camper battery and it will not charge.. disconnect and voltage return to match alternator output. I have replace the 30 amp auto reset breaker in the J Box on the camper as well. I even ran an 8 gauge jumper from the breaker in the J box to the camper battery to bypass the camper wiring and the same happens. Fuse F30 is good as well under the hood. I am baffled.
 
I was thinking it could be the trailer plug, so I replaced it with a Heavy duty 8 foot. 10 ga on power and ground. what is weird is that when I don't have the truck connected I show the same voltage at pin 4 as dash alt voltage. but when I connect the 7 pin voltage drops to voltage on camper battery and it will not charge.. disconnect and voltage return to match alternator output. I have replace the 30 amp auto reset breaker in the J Box on the camper as well. I even ran an 8 gauge jumper from the breaker in the J box to the camper battery to bypass the camper wiring and the same happens. Fuse F30 is good as well under the hood. I am baffled.
Thats odd that it wont charge how long was it left to see if it was charging?
 
Thats odd that it wont charge how long was it left to see if it was charging?
I let the truck run for almost one hour.... really odd. I think I am going to see if I can find the wiring diagram from the TPIM to the 7 pin plug and see if there is a breaker in line some where. I am baffled....
 
I let the truck run for almost one hour.... really odd. I think I am going to see if I can find the wiring diagram from the TPIM to the 7 pin plug and see if there is a breaker in line some where. I am baffled....
Its not a TIPM in these trucks ill tag @Jimmy07 he may be able to set you on the right path
 
Sorry to resurrect an old thread, but I thought I'd add some info for other's use. The most pertinent to the question above is that on my truck, after turning off the truck ignition, power continues to be supplied to the 7-way plug for only about an hour. Then, power is shut off by the truck computer, presumably to prevent draining the truck batteries. (I am eager for any suggestions on how to modify this setting such that it will charge the trailer for a longer period of time. If I screw up and drain the starter battery too low, I do have jump starters available)

To re initiate the ~ hour of power supply, it is not as simple as turning the ignition to "on". Instead, I must actually start the engine and then shut down.

On my 2020 RAM 3500, here are some data: My truck has two fairly new AGMs in excellent condition, the trailer has 3 older flooded lead acid batteries that tested "decent" with a "toaster style" load test 2 months ago. All connections are clean and tight, and trailer battery cells are topped off with distilled water. Factory wiring on the truck and on the 5th wheel trailer harness. Prior to doing this test, the resting voltage at the truck batteries was 12.4 volts, and the trailer batteries were discharged too far at 11.8 volts (trailer batteries measured with a bit of draw). Without starting the truck, the trailer will receive about 3 amps through the 7 way plug in this situation.

With the truck running, as the alternators kick in, I measure 14.3 volts at the battery, and also at the 7-way plug when the trailer is not connected. After I plug in the trailer with discharged batteries, the voltage at the truck side of the 7-way plug instantaneously drops to about 13.4 volts. This 0.9 volt drop in voltage is apparently reasonable given the what I believe is 10 gauge wire along the truck chassis (and in the trailer wiring harness). With the truck running, it pushes about 10.1 amps to the batteries (instantaneous) in this situation- and then it declines to 7 or 8 amps after 5 minutes, apparently due to a "surface charge" measured at 12.3 volts, but then dropping lower to around 12.0 volts if I disconnnect any charging source and the voltage "settles."

I recognize I probably should replace the old trailer batteries, but will instead try to desulfate them after this trip and try to limp along with the setup. My boondocking duration is often only a few days between access to 110V to recharge the batteries fully with on-trailer charger. I do have an awesome EcoFlow power station that supplies my 110V when boondocking, and I could also use it to recharge the house batteries if needed. If I could instead get my truck 7-way to provide 3 amps for 4 to 8 hours, I would be self-sufficient even with the older batteries. And with 160 amp-hours of capacity under the hood, I'm confident I could afford to drain 20 amp hours without a concern in warm weather starting. Certainly, the "poor boy" solution is simply to turn the truck around and hook up some jumper cables for 15 minutes. But, I was instead hoping for a more elegant solution.

My main purpose to post was to inform others of the "time" at which the 7 way plug shuts off on my truck. It was driving me crazy until I learned that it automatically shut off. My question to the RAM braintrust is whether this is an adjustible parameter? If it is not adjustible, perhaps a DC-to-DC setup, or a direct auxilliary line with larger gauge wire is in my future. Suggestions or links appreciated!
 
Sorry to resurrect an old thread, but I thought I'd add some info for other's use. The most pertinent to the question above is that on my truck, after turning off the truck ignition, power continues to be supplied to the 7-way plug for only about an hour. Then, power is shut off by the truck computer, presumably to prevent draining the truck batteries. (I am eager for any suggestions on how to modify this setting such that it will charge the trailer for a longer period of time. If I screw up and drain the starter battery too low, I do have jump starters available)

To re initiate the ~ hour of power supply, it is not as simple as turning the ignition to "on". Instead, I must actually start the engine and then shut down.

On my 2020 RAM 3500, here are some data: My truck has two fairly new AGMs in excellent condition, the trailer has 3 older flooded lead acid batteries that tested "decent" with a "toaster style" load test 2 months ago. All connections are clean and tight, and trailer battery cells are topped off with distilled water. Factory wiring on the truck and on the 5th wheel trailer harness. Prior to doing this test, the resting voltage at the truck batteries was 12.4 volts, and the trailer batteries were discharged too far at 11.8 volts (trailer batteries measured with a bit of draw). Without starting the truck, the trailer will receive about 3 amps through the 7 way plug in this situation.

With the truck running, as the alternators kick in, I measure 14.3 volts at the battery, and also at the 7-way plug when the trailer is not connected. After I plug in the trailer with discharged batteries, the voltage at the truck side of the 7-way plug instantaneously drops to about 13.4 volts. This 0.9 volt drop in voltage is apparently reasonable given the what I believe is 10 gauge wire along the truck chassis (and in the trailer wiring harness). With the truck running, it pushes about 10.1 amps to the batteries (instantaneous) in this situation- and then it declines to 7 or 8 amps after 5 minutes, apparently due to a "surface charge" measured at 12.3 volts, but then dropping lower to around 12.0 volts if I disconnnect any charging source and the voltage "settles."

I recognize I probably should replace the old trailer batteries, but will instead try to desulfate them after this trip and try to limp along with the setup. My boondocking duration is often only a few days between access to 110V to recharge the batteries fully with on-trailer charger. I do have an awesome EcoFlow power station that supplies my 110V when boondocking, and I could also use it to recharge the house batteries if needed. If I could instead get my truck 7-way to provide 3 amps for 4 to 8 hours, I would be self-sufficient even with the older batteries. And with 160 amp-hours of capacity under the hood, I'm confident I could afford to drain 20 amp hours without a concern in warm weather starting. Certainly, the "poor boy" solution is simply to turn the truck around and hook up some jumper cables for 15 minutes. But, I was instead hoping for a more elegant solution.

My main purpose to post was to inform others of the "time" at which the 7 way plug shuts off on my truck. It was driving me crazy until I learned that it automatically shut off. My question to the RAM braintrust is whether this is an adjustible parameter? If it is not adjustible, perhaps a DC-to-DC setup, or a direct auxilliary line with larger gauge wire is in my future. Suggestions or links appreciated!
Interesting, unless the low voltage unit is kicking off the 7 pin wiring im not sure why it would do that my 19 stays active from what I have seen, I went on a trip to mexico this winter and I did as I always do when away which is hook my maintainer to the 7 pin plug and when I got back the maintainer showed the batteries full and was still connected.
 
I haven’t heard of the 7-pin positive circuit opening, from what I’ve seen it’s always closed.

You won’t get any effective charge to the trailer out of it anyways, it will just drain your starting batteries.

I would actually prefer the 7-pin positive circuit would open when the engine was off, that way I wouldn’t have to disconnect the trailer when parked overnight and still hitched.
 
I just finished wiring the 7 pin power pin to one of my Aux switches so it is only powered when the ignition is on (and I can turn it off with the switch). I wanted to be able to use the 7 pin connector in the bed which can't be accessed with my truck camper on. If I had known it shuts off in an hour I wouldn't have bothered.
 
I just finished wiring the 7 pin power pin to one of my Aux switches so it is only powered when the ignition is on (and I can turn it off with the switch). I wanted to be able to use the 7 pin connector in the bed which can't be accessed with my truck camper on. If I had known it shuts off in an hour I wouldn't have bothered.

Mine definitely does not shut off after an hour, or overnight, or ever that I’ve noticed.

Can you do a wrote up of how you did this? It’s an excellent idea.


@MCV did you buy the truck new? Maybe a previous owner modified the 7 pin wiring? Either way you won’t get any charge from your truck with the engine off, you must have the engine running to get the voltage high enough to charge the trailer.
 
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