Thuren mentioned that the front end may see some damage with 37s while off-road if you don't adjust the axel with a lift.37s do not need a lift to fit. You will need the wheel to be in a +18 to +25 offset (I believe those are the correct numbers, but could be off a mm or two). You would also need to mod the back of the front wheel wells, at a minimum heating up the fender liner and pushing it back, potentially needing to bend the pinch weld over. That's not a lot of work to fit 37s. 35s however are throw on and go.
Numerous folks with 37s on stock suspension Power Wagons on here, Expedition Portal, and other places with no problems. I'd have them on mine, but then I wouldn't fit into the parking garage at work.Thuren mentioned that the front end may see some damage with 37s while off-road if you don't adjust the axel with a lift.
Have you confirmed you can wheel with 37s?
I am thinking of going with the AEV rims that are specifically designed to fit 37s on a stock PW in the front but was concerned about full articulation.
That said I now have an aftermarket bumper so it may be a moot point.
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Well there is that.Numerous folks with 37s on stock suspension Power Wagons on here, Expedition Portal, and other places with no problems. I'd have them on mine, but then I wouldn't fit into the parking garage at work.
Well there is that.
I tow with my rig so going to 37s means also going to 5.12 gearing ratio. Maybe this spring.
Good to know fitment works with the offset.
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Depends on the tire actual size lots of 37s are basically 35s37s do not need a lift to fit. You will need the wheel to be in a +18 to +25 offset (I believe those are the correct numbers, but could be off a mm or two). You would also need to mod the back of the front wheel wells, at a minimum heating up the fender liner and pushing it back, potentially needing to bend the pinch weld over. That's not a lot of work to fit 37s. 35s however are throw on and go.
FYI it doesn’t sound like anyone makes gearing a 2019+ power wagon rear axle yet...Yukon told me the rear pinion, axles, etc are different, but they haven’t been able to get their hands on a full axle yet to check it all out, and therefore they don’t have gearsets available yet for 2019+ power wagonsWell there is that.
I tow with my rig so going to 37s means also going to 5.12 gearing ratio. Maybe this spring.
Good to know fitment works with the offset.
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Nice. What type of rubbing do you have?Stock 2019 with 37x12.50 KM3s.
I posted a couple more photos in the "Let’s see your wagons with 35 and 37’s" thread.
View attachment 11898

It's so minimal that I haven't bothered looking into it yet but the way it feels/sounds, I suspect it is rubbing the radius arm.Nice. What type of rubbing do you have?
Also love your username
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Sweet looking truck...what topper is that?Stock 2019 with 37x12.50 KM3s.
I posted a couple more photos in the "Let’s see your wagons with 35 and 37’s" thread.
View attachment 11898
Thanks!Sweet looking truck...what topper is that?
Spacers are fine as long as they are quality and you have enough thread engagement on the lug. By quality I mean that they are well machined and dead flat.The AEV wheel's 17x8.5" back spacing is advertised at 5.8" and the stock wheel is 6.3" (calculated from 45.72mm offset). We must be careful when talking back spacing vs offset. as the wheel width changes everything, so you cannot really compare them side by side. The stock wheel sits 0.5" farther inward than the AEV. The AEV is 0.5" wider so the outside edge of the wheel should be a total 1" farther outward. The 0.5" of back spacing you are not getting from the AEV wheel is what is causing your tire to rub on the radius arm (if it does) with the stock wheel.
I had the same issue with the stock wheels and 12.5" wide tires on my RAM 1500 (not radius arms, but you get the concept). I added a 1/4" spacer to the front wheels and that did the trick. The 1/4" spacer is arguably a bad idea, but I ran them for many miles including off-road without issue. I certainly would not run a thicker spacer than that, and many will pounce on this as a terrible idea anyway.
If one decided that a 1/4" spacer was an option, the question would be, is this enough to fix the rubbing issue under full lock? Every tire is different and couple that with fabrication tolerances, and you have a trial and error situation. If it is, and you are comfortable with it, then you saved yourself about $1k in wheels. If it does not, then you are out $40, and have to buy wheels anyway.
Bolt on spacers are great but spacers that use the existing studs like 1/4” spacers should be steel the soft aluminum can cause issues i usually cut them out of plate on the plasma tableSpacers are fine as long as they are quality and you have enough thread engagement on the lug. By quality I mean that they are well machined and dead flat.