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Lost fuel pump/Lift pump

engweld22

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I have a 2023 2500 Cummins with 71k miles. I went to start the truck up the other day and it started, i ran it around town came back and shut it down. Went to go start it up again and it cranked until i hit the start button again. I did the method for priming the fuel system after changing filters, no sound from the fuel tank. I checked the fuse, it was fine. Swapped the fuse and tested again to double check. Didnt get it running again. I then let it sit for a week and i hopped in and i could hear the fuel pump whirring again. took it for a drive and it was fine. i had alpha going and recorded my fuel rail pressure and was getting 900-1000 bar, which is good, my HPFP is working. Shut the truck down, went to start it again and the fuel pump made no whirring sound and then it cranked and cranked and i shut it down. So i think my in-tank fuel pump is bad.

Can i get a recommendation for either going to an aftermarket fuel pump system or in-tank pump?
Since i may be dropping the tank if i go with an OEM equvivalent, would it be preduent to just replace it with a higher capacity tank and get the higher capacity fuel pump?

Thoughts, arguments?
 
So I was doing some research in the fuel pumps. Seems that there are 2 part numbers 05145571AA which is replaced by 05145571AB. Doing some research, the orignal part number AA has a GPH of 80-90 while the replacement is approx. 45. Granted this is from the Google AI and should be taken lightly, but is usually pretty accurate. Does anyone have the TDS for these systems? If not, what would be the difference if i purchased a Delphi FG1943 unit for half the price as that claims a 45 GPH as well? Has anyone had any experience with this?
 
If you are dropping the tank I would be installing one of the Fleece units along with upgrading the fuel tank size as well while you are at it.



 
If you are dropping the tank I would be installing one of the Fleece units along with upgrading the fuel tank size as well while you are at it.




Thank you this information is exactly what i was looking for. i didn't even know about Fleece. I was looking at the the S&B tanks, but i'm not a huge fan of losing 2.5" of clearance though as i do take my truck off road and i already have a few knicks and scuffs on the stock tank. Which is why i didn't want to go the sump route either. I like the idea of dual pumps on the Fleece pump too, increased pressure and flow as well as the safety of one pump failing, you still have the second.
 
Thank you this information is exactly what i was looking for. i didn't even know about Fleece. I was looking at the the S&B tanks, but i'm not a huge fan of losing 2.5" of clearance though as i do take my truck off road and i already have a few knicks and scuffs on the stock tank. Which is why i didn't want to go the sump route either. I like the idea of dual pumps on the Fleece pump too, increased pressure and flow as well as the safety of one pump failing, you still have the second.
I installed one of the Fleece lift pumps in my then 2022 3500 Bighorn when I switched out the Tank for the S&B 52 Gallon and had zero issues in the 40k miles while I had the truck. I bought extra relay's and kept 2 in the truck just in case as there is a wiring harness that goes from the lift pump all the way up to the driver side battery for power.

On my new 2026 3500 Mega Cab when I did the new Titan 50 Gallon I did not do a new lift pump this time as the truck only had 1800 miles and I believe Ram has upgraded the lift pump in the 2025-2026 models but I could be wrong. My Titan tank sits higher up than my S&B tank did but I don't worry about offroad clearance like yourself but I love not having to worry DTE issues.
 
If you are dropping the tank I would be installing one of the Fleece units along with upgrading the fuel tank size as well while you are at it.



If you’re not running a bigger CP3 that’s pushing against some big sticks, a Power-Flow is an “upgrade” without any real benefit.

I haven’t priced an OEM pump, but unless they are noticeably more expensive than a fleece unit, I’d probably just snag a MOPAR unit.
 
So got the tank dropped and pulled out the pump. I bench tested the pump and found it to be working under 12.8V. I then brought it back to the truck plugged it in and I could feel the motor want to turn but wouldn't go. So I checked the voltage across the pins to be 10.44V. I put the truck on the charger and its up to 12.2V. So I am losing voltage somewhere. Does anyone have a wiring diagram. I check the fuse and the relays.
 
Whats your battery voltage? You could have a bad battery causing this too possibly. I would load test them to be sure its not the issue. A single bad battery can cause lots of ofd issues
 
I was getting up to 13 volts by the time I called it for the night. And at some point I started to get full voltage drop between the fuse and the positive side of the battery. I think I am going to go with an airdog or fass and bypass the TIPM. I don't really have the time to really dig into it unfortunately. I have swapped relays and fuses to no avail as well. Bench testing still shows the pump still works though.
 
Before you go down that path, I definitely would load test the batteries as was previously suggested.

Would be a much simpler fix, and wouldn’t downgrade your fuel/water separation capability.
 
Had the batteries test good. Replaced them as a swap with Autozone. So I hooked up the fuel pump in a 5 gallon pail of diesel, bench tested and sprayed diesel everywhere, so the pump is good. Moved the setup to the truck, no power to the pump. Tested the voltage across the fuse to the battery and had full voltage drop when the truck was on, which should be no more than 0.5v. Wiring diagram for TIPM anyone?
 
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