Let’s see your wagons with 35 and 37’s

[UNifc6pF]

22 PW Lvl 3 w/ Offraod Pkg

17x9" Mopar Beadlocks
37x12.5 MT Baja Boss MT

I haven't stretch the suspension yet, I'm getting some rubbing on control arm at full lock, and I'm rubbing something at about 2/3 - 3/4 turn - not sure if it's plastic (thinking front valence, or the track bar (i think it's the track bar)). I don't think I'm rubbing on the plastic behind the tire or on the fender wells.

The rock rails kept a lot of **** flying up on teh side which was nice; but with the 37's the 4 yr old and Wife struggle to get in and out. I wanted some Rock Slide Engineering, but they don't have any plans to make one. Longest the have is just shy of 91" but would need to be custom fab. to get working. Amp has the Powerstep XL that might give me what I'm wanting (less rock sliding and banging, and more protection from random rocks and mud flying up.)

 

[AnthonyD1978]

22 PW Lvl 3 w/ Offraod Pkg

17x9" Mopar Beadlocks
37x12.5 MT Baja Boss MT

I haven't stretch the suspension yet, I'm getting some rubbing on control arm at full lock, and I'm rubbing something at about 2/3 - 3/4 turn - not sure if it's plastic (thinking front valence, or the track bar (i think it's the track bar)). I don't think I'm rubbing on the plastic behind the tire or on the fender wells.

The rock rails kept a lot of **** flying up on teh side which was nice; but with the 37's the 4 yr old and Wife struggle to get in and out. I wanted some Rock Slide Engineering, but they don't have any plans to make one. Longest the have is just shy of 91" but would need to be custom fab. to get working. Amp has the Powerstep XL that might give me what I'm wanting (less rock sliding and banging, and more protection from random rocks and mud flying up.)

The Mopar sliders aren't really sliders so you won't lose much by swapping them out.

You could stick a spacer on the OEM wheels to minimize the rubbing. Just make sure they are hub-centric.

 

[UNifc6pF]

The Mopar sliders aren't really sliders so you won't lose much by swapping them out.

You could stick a spacer on the OEM wheels to minimize the rubbing. Just make sure they are hub-centric.

I figured they weren't as good as some aftermarket ones, don't plan on testing either.

Yeah; I'm looking at removing teh front valence and looking at replacing the control arms with ones that allow more clearance by bending in. I've also looked at BORA spacers, but there isn't a lot of room behidn the wheel and not sure I want a 1.75 / 2" spacer; nor do i want to trim the studs.

 

[RPS1030]

looking at replacing the control arms with ones that allow more clearance by bending in.

The Thuren Radius Arms WILL reduce suspension flex compared to the stock flex with the Power Wagon Radius Arms. I ended up with a set of Thuren arms because the guy that had them didn't like the loss of flex he got.

 

[Brewbud]

22 PW Lvl 3 w/ Offraod Pkg

17x9" Mopar Beadlocks
37x12.5 MT Baja Boss MT

I haven't stretch the suspension yet, I'm getting some rubbing on control arm at full lock, and I'm rubbing something at about 2/3 - 3/4 turn - not sure if it's plastic (thinking front valence, or the track bar (i think it's the track bar)). I don't think I'm rubbing on the plastic behind the tire or on the fender wells.

The rock rails kept a lot of **** flying up on teh side which was nice; but with the 37's the 4 yr old and Wife struggle to get in and out. I wanted some Rock Slide Engineering, but they don't have any plans to make one. Longest the have is just shy of 91" but would need to be custom fab. to get working. Amp has the Powerstep XL that might give me what I'm wanting (less rock sliding and banging, and more protection from random rocks and mud flying up.)

View attachment 25997
View attachment 25998View attachment 25999View attachment 26000

That is a great looking truck. I am interested in hearing your opinion of the Baja Boss tires after you have some time on them.

 

[el_barto]

I figured they weren't as good as some aftermarket ones, don't plan on testing either.

Yeah; I'm looking at removing teh front valence and looking at replacing the control arms with ones that allow more clearance by bending in. I've also looked at BORA spacers, but there isn't a lot of room behidn the wheel and not sure I want a 1.75 / 2" spacer; nor do i want to trim the studs.

Leave the radius arms alone.
A) they are a major part of what makes a power wagon a power wagon (articulink)
B) they are beefy and can take a hit
C) make them higher clearance and what becomes the new lower point that makes contact with the earth? The diff? The CAD? The knuckle? I don’t even think you would gain any clearance from aftermarket radius arms since the axle connection point is the same.

If you wheel your truck I highly recommend the Carli or Maple front diff guard. The diff is low and vulnerable, smashing the pan in or peeling it would be bad day.

 

[Brewbud]

Leave the radius arms alone.
A) they are a major part of what makes a power wagon a power wagon (articulink)
B) they are beefy and can take a hit
C) make them higher clearance and what becomes the new lower point that makes contact with the earth? The diff? The CAD? The knuckle? I don’t even think you would gain any clearance from aftermarket radius arms since the axle connection point is the same.

If you wheel your truck I highly recommend the Carli or Maple front diff guard. The diff is low and vulnerable, smashing the pan in or peeling it would be bad day.

View attachment 26035

That guard has the marks to show it has been doing its job. Nice!

 

[AnthonyD1978]

I figured they weren't as good as some aftermarket ones, don't plan on testing either.

Yeah; I'm looking at removing teh front valence and looking at replacing the control arms with ones that allow more clearance by bending in. I've also looked at BORA spacers, but there isn't a lot of room behidn the wheel and not sure I want a 1.75 / 2" spacer; nor do i want to trim the studs.

You shouldn't have to trim the studs if you run a 2" spacer, but double check.

 

[UNifc6pF]

Leave the radius arms alone.
A) they are a major part of what makes a power wagon a power wagon (articulink)
B) they are beefy and can take a hit
C) make them higher clearance and what becomes the new lower point that makes contact with the earth? The diff? The CAD? The knuckle? I don’t even think you would gain any clearance from aftermarket radius arms since the axle connection point is the same.

If you wheel your truck I highly recommend the Carli or Maple front diff guard. The diff is low and vulnerable, smashing the pan in or peeling it would be bad day.

View attachment 26035

I'm not doing it for ground clearings, but tire clearance, having the bend to allow the tires to not rub at full lock.

Good call on the front diff card, you can see where it does it's job. I don't do hard core wheeling; just ranch and camping stuff.

 

[UNifc6pF]

You shouldn't have to trim the studs if you run a 2" spacer, but double check.

I believe i measured them at 1.75" - but i could be imaging things. But I don't want to push my tires out that far.

 

[Hibiki54]

The rock rails kept a lot of **** flying up on teh side which was nice; but with the 37's the 4 yr old and Wife struggle to get in and out. I wanted some Rock Slide Engineering, but they don't have any plans to make one. Longest the have is just shy of 91" but would need to be custom fab. to get working. Amp has the Powerstep XL that might give me what I'm wanting (less rock sliding and banging, and more protection from random rocks and mud flying up.)

I talked to a support associate at Amp Research and the Powerstep XL does not fit on the Power Wagon due to cab vibration dampeners associated with the 6.4L BGE. Only the standard Powerstep fits on the PW.

 

[RubiRam392]

Stock wheels, no spacers. 37x12.50R17 Cooper STT Pros. Rubs on the sway bar at full lock. Other than that I haven’t ran into any other clearance issues yet.

 

[Loosebolts]

Stock wheels, no spacers. 37x12.50R17 Cooper STT Pros. Rubs on the sway bar at full lock. Other than that I haven’t ran into any other clearance issues yet.

I’ve been looking at the coopers for a while, it’s either these or the Yokohama geolanders nice set up.

 

[RubiRam392]

I’ve been looking at the coopers for a while, it’s either these or the Yokohama geolanders nice set up.

Thanks man! I dig it. I’ve got a bit of death wobble with these. I’m going to pull them tomorrow and rebalance them and see if it goes away. If not I guess I’ll try aligning it again.

 

[Loosebolts]

Can anyone recommend a good windshield wiper, I feel the ones that came from factory are bougus they don’t remove the bug goup? I want to replace ones with some that work and not waste my money as each wiper is about 50 bucks.

 

[Rockcrawlindude]

Can anyone recommend a good windshield wiper, I feel the ones that came from factory are bougus they don’t remove the bug goup? I want to replace ones with some that work and not waste my money as each wiper is about 50 bucks.

Wipers are so expensive these days. I feel like the Bosch icon bendy blade kind are the best value.

If you haven’t had the bendy blade kind before, a heads up sometimes they don’t touch in the middle at first so don’t install them while it’s raining and you’re on a road trip. They need to settle in a bit.

 

[Great White North Eh]

Costco bendy-blades . Michelin….pretty good in the winter to.

 

[Wobly]

Can anyone recommend a good windshield wiper, I feel the ones that came from factory are bougus they don’t remove the bug goup? I want to replace ones with some that work and not waste my money as each wiper is about 50 bucks.

Bosch Icon. Try to get the 22A and 22B, if you can find the 22B. It has a bit more curve to fit the passenger side better.

 

[flan]

Out of all the windshield wipers I’ve run, and I’ve run a lot, none remove the bug goop they just basically smear them.

 

[Loosebolts]

Out of all the windshield wipers I’ve run, and I’ve run a lot, none remove the bug goop they just basically smear them.

Ahh what the hell