What's new
By:
Ram Heavy Duty Forum

Register a free account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members through your own private inbox!

Intake manifold fuel leak

P

Pedro62

New Member
Messages
7
Reaction score
1
Points
3
I have a 2021 3500 Limited Dually. I installed a non delete tuner from "Calibrated Power" in October and didn't seem to note any issues. In November I installed the "Banks Monster Intake" with the heater grid delete, boost tubes and the CAI. I followed Banks installation info and torqued the intake manifold bolts to 18 ft/lbs. I have been chasing a fuel leak thinking it is somewhere on the fuel rail that I keep missing. After removing L/H fender liner I have realized I'm chasing a ghost and the leak is blowing out under the IM, mostly in the back but also the entire perimeter. This issue seems worst when I select 80 or 100 HP increase with my SOTF tuner and get on the throttle 100%.

Has anyone else had this issue? If so, what was your remedy? Not sure if I can increase torque and if longer bolts would be needed. The billet plate that comes with the intake looked good but I don't have machine shop tools to check for warp.

Any input from those who have had similar issues would be greatly appreciated!

Best Regards,
Pedro62
 
I'm thinking you got a bad seal on that gasket during the original install. Maybe missed debris. Take it off and check it, put a new gasket on. Talk to Banks.
I was going to do this swap on my 2016 but never got around to it before getting the 2022. The amount of steps involved ultimately de-motivated me. I can understand wanting to explore all options before taking it off again.
 
You are correct, it's a real PIA job. I tried very hard to make sure surface was all clean and wiped with alcohol but you never no. We are heading up to Houston on Sunday from Aransas Pass for a month or so. I know what 1 of my projects will be :-(.
 
So the intake manifold wouldn’t leak fuel, maybe you’re seeing engine oil mist via the CCV through the intercooler and into the intake plenum? Soot from the EGR possibly?
 
I installed the monster ram this weekend and I'm also getting a diesel leak at the rear of the fuel rail. Pedro were able to determine what was going on with yours?
 
Unfortunately I have not Rick03. I am supposed to take to dealer this morning but I really don't want to. I just don't trust them. I cleaned up fuel around the fuel rail yesterday and again ran at different tunes. It looks like to me it is leaking around the #3 and/or #4 injector. I never see an actual leak just the result of a leak. I want to take things back apart and examine the ends of the fuel lines to look for any small cracks maybe due to not lining the the fuel lines up good enough in the nut. I have looked over and again above eng., below eng., fuel filter, fuel pump and associated lines. There is nothing leaking. Obviously it is coming from some where.

It is possible I guess that one of the injectors has developed a crack in the threaded portion. I have no experience on diesel engines as this is my 1st diesel truck. I am just using what trouble shooting knowledge I have from a career as an A&P mechanic in airline heavy maintenance.

I would like to have a mnaual for my truck just not sure of best place to get one online!

Did you torque your B nuts to 30 ft/lbs?
 
I did torque to 30ft/lbs. I just replaced both banjo washers and that seemed to fix the small leak, I think. I'll find out tomorrow when I get to work if that really worked.
 
Sounds great Rick03, I was wondering about them my self when I did the job originally while boon docking. I reused also which might be the problem.
 
I wanted to thank all those who responded again and give a update. So sorry it is very late in coming. Time fly's and between traveling and getting ready for my daughter's wedding which was this past weekend 4/22, I just totally forgot.

While in Houston for a month I knew I would be able to disassemble fuel rail and top end with out being so rushed. I removed everything again as if I were doing a heater grid delete. I realized my job would be much easier and allowed me access to torque fuel rail properly if I removed valve cover. I was a little hesitant at first because I have never done that job on any diesel engine. That was the smartest thing I did. It was extremely easy and the V/cover gasket is reusable. Also you get a birds I view of all the injector connectors and top end components. As I love to learn, I found it to be very educational.

Once you remove the cover you have great access to the entire fuel rail without the CCV tubes in the way. FYI, I also ordered an online manual which gives all the info to execute the job correctly. For instance, the injector tube fitting that the fuel rail attaches to has a torque also and can be loosened when removing fuel lines - Lesson: #1.

Next, as a career A&P mechanic with 20 yrs. in aviation heavy maintenance I knew in my soul I should change banjo bolt seals but we were boon docking in Santa Fe and I couldn't get parts fast enough (poor planning on me), always replace these seals even if they look good IMO but they are ridiculously pricey. Lesson: #2

Last but not least, I checked all the fuel lines using my magnifying lens due to such high press and the fact that any chip or crack would probably cause a leak. I found a chip on line #2 right in the flared area where the line tightens into the fuel rail tube fitting. I believe during the 1st time I reinstalled when CCV tube is right in the way the tube must have gotten slightly misaligned even though I tried like hell to install correctly (wide open when valve cover is remove and it is cake to torque correctly). That, I believe, contributed the most to the fuel leak - Lesson #3.

Once I reinstalled everything fuel leak was eliminated and Pearl once again tows like a beast.

BTW: #2 fuel line part # is 68480003-AA ($304.17 w/tax ouch), the banjo bolt gaskets (#68002992AA, $7.99 ea.) from "Parts Geek".

Hopefully this info will help anyone else have a much more enjoyable time performing this task.

Best Regards to all,
Pedro62
 
Well, all this is the closest I’ve come to on my issues. I have a ‘19, and I just did the Banks intake horn. Prior I was getting very very good mileage. After… the onboard says it’s the same, but I’m seeing 200 or so less per tank. Starts like normal. Seems to have plenty of power. First thing that caught my eye is my “miles to empty” when I take off from a stop I’ll loose 2-3 miles each time. On the highway it’s normal. So like under load that fuel is going somewhere…. But what stumps me, I don’t see any fuel, I don’t smell any fuel… just suddenly I’m getting like 7-8 mpg worse then before.

I was certain it was the banjo or #6 line as it was so far back and I didn’t have stubby wrenches I just figured I didn’t get it tight. No engine lights nothing.

I have lines 3,4 and 5 off, and I have 6 rotated up now. I’m looking for new banjo washers as I did NOT replace them. I ordered a stubby set of wrenches and some crows foot wrenches that pivot…

Won’t lie, I’m sick to my stomach about it haha I’m generally pretty good with these things but I’m at a loss at what would cause this thing to get so badly affected. I have a 32 gal tank, I’m at 1/4 left and I’m not even at 300 miles. Brutal
 
martee0711 said:
Well, all this is the closest I’ve come to on my issues. I have a ‘19, and I just did the Banks intake horn. Prior I was getting very very good mileage. After… the onboard says it’s the same, but I’m seeing 200 or so less per tank. Starts like normal. Seems to have plenty of power. First thing that caught my eye is my “miles to empty” when I take off from a stop I’ll loose 2-3 miles each time. On the highway it’s normal. So like under load that fuel is going somewhere…. But what stumps me, I don’t see any fuel, I don’t smell any fuel… just suddenly I’m getting like 7-8 mpg worse then before.

I was certain it was the banjo or #6 line as it was so far back and I didn’t have stubby wrenches I just figured I didn’t get it tight. No engine lights nothing.

I have lines 3,4 and 5 off, and I have 6 rotated up now. I’m looking for new banjo washers as I did NOT replace them. I ordered a stubby set of wrenches and some crows foot wrenches that pivot…

Won’t lie, I’m sick to my stomach about it haha I’m generally pretty good with these things but I’m at a loss at what would cause this thing to get so badly affected. I have a 32 gal tank, I’m at 1/4 left and I’m not even at 300 miles. Brutal
Click to expand...
start by switching over to the dpf screen on your evic to see if you are in regen alot.
 
flan said:
start by switching over to the dpf screen on your evic to see if you are in regen alot.
Click to expand...

I should have mentioned it’s deleted.

But I was driving my wife’s Durango over the weekend that’s bone stock and runs like a top, and…. Her miles till empty is just as wonky. I ran to the local Home Depot. And from the time I took the exit, drove 1 block and got back on the highway maybe… 1/2 mile in real life it went down 7 miles haha. So…. That’s my bad.

Still doesn’t account for the physical bad mileage. I’m running over to a stealership today to get the banjo bolt seals.

Off the top of anyone’s head know the torque specs on the keeper nuts? #6 was dark where as the rest were all dry. I’d just like to be damn sure when I put it back together it’s the last time haha
 

6.7L Cummins Injector Torque Spec And Sequence​

  • Injector: Pre-torque hold-down bolt to 44 inch-pounds to ensure injector is seated and centered.
  • Injector: Loosen hold-down bolts and leave them in place
  • Feed tube: Torque to 11 lb-ft. to ensure feed tube is seated & centered.
  • Injector hold-down bolts final install: torque to 71 inch-lbs.
  • Feed tube final install: torque to 37 lb-ft.
  • Rocker Arm mounting bolts: 28 lb-ft.
  • Wire connector nuts final install: torque to 11 inch-pounds.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top