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Head Gasket? Blown Turbo? Cylinder washed out? Need help....

All I mean by that is it's not a stock tune, so it's going to build more pressure and more heat to build power so inevitably it is more likely to cause failure. Definitely plan to have the injectors tested. Anyone know of a place near Charlotte, NC, or if not, a good place to send them off to?
200k miles seems like a great time to have them replaced, no? Especially considering all the work you’re already doing to the motor.
 
All I mean by that is it's not a stock tune, so it's going to build more pressure and more heat to build power so inevitably it is more likely to cause failure. Definitely plan to have the injectors tested. Anyone know of a place near Charlotte, NC, or if not, a good place to send them off to?

Aftermarket tunes can actually be easier on components of the engine despite making more power, it's all in how it's tuned, which means it's inevitably not more likely to cause failure if done correctly. Since you don't know the tune/tuner it's possible it's a stock tune that's deleted, which wouldn't be uncommon for a 5500.
 
200k miles seems like a great time to have them replaced, no? Especially considering all the work you’re already doing to the motor.
Honestly I hadn't even thought of that. I assumed they were $300-400 each, so the idea of adding another $2k to the rebuild didn't seem necessary, but I see places online with them for $150-200. Adding a grand for piece of mind is something I can stomach. Any reason to not go back with stock?
 
Aftermarket tunes can actually be easier on components of the engine despite making more power, it's all in how it's tuned, which means it's inevitably potentially not more likely to cause failure if done correctly. Since you don't know the tune/tuner it's possible it's a stock tune that's deleted, which wouldn't be uncommon for a 5500.
It's supposed to be a stock+50hp tune, and obviously there are good and bad tunes, and room for improvement on stock tuning, but there are also practical limits to how much difference you can make without increasing temperature and pressure. At 11k pounds, the 5500 is still way quicker than my bone stock 2019 2500, so the tune is definitely making noticeably more power than stock, especially with how much the C&C trucks are detuned.
 
Honestly I hadn't even thought of that. I assumed they were $300-400 each, so the idea of adding another $2k to the rebuild didn't seem necessary, but I see places online with them for $150-200. Adding a grand for piece of mind is something I can stomach. Any reason to not go back with stock?

I wouldn't trust $150-200/ea injectors, they are likely cheap rebuilds. Plan to spend around 3K for quality new injectors.

At 200K you could get another 100-150K miles out them, or they could be done. If there is any chance an injector caused the melted piston you're going to be into 6 injectors anyways.

It's supposed to be a stock+50hp tune, and obviously there are good and bad tunes, and room for improvement on stock tuning, but there are also practical limits to how much difference you can make without increasing temperature and pressure. At 11k pounds, the 5500 is still way quicker than my bone stock 2019 2500, so the tune is definitely making noticeably more power than stock, especially with how much the C&C trucks are detuned.

C&C trucks aren't detuned, they have their own tuning which produces the power they make. The entire tune is different, not just a limit to peak power which would be detuned.

Does the truck have any aftermarket gauges?
 
I wouldn't trust $150-200/ea injectors, they are likely cheap rebuilds. Plan to spend around 3K for quality new injectors.

At 200K you could get another 100-150K miles out them, or they could be done. If there is any chance an injector caused the melted piston you're going to be into 6 injectors anyways.
Thanks for the insight. Agreed, this is why I was going to send them off to have them tested/cleaned/rebuilt if necessary.
 
So does that mean a bore and sleeve or just a bore?
It means the bores are still good, so I can just replace the pistons and not have to pull the motor or take the bottom end apart. I will probably end up wishing I pulled the motor, but it should be as simple as raise the motor, drop the pan, take the rods loose, and slide them out the top. Crossmember will be a pain. But still seems easier than taking the motor all the way out.
 
AH64ID mentioned about the .5mm over kit. That’s basically .020 inch over size, so I’m guessing the bore gets enlarged. I guess the question is do you sleeve it or not?
In the case that the only pistons available are the over size.
 
AH64ID mentioned about the .5mm over kit. That’s basically .020 inch over size, so I’m guessing the bore gets enlarged. I guess the question is do you sleeve it or not?
In the case that the only pistons available are the over size.
Stock size pistons are available.
 
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