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Grid Heater Bolt Failure

FYI, DID just dropped some new videos all the Banks fanbois are not gonna like.

TL;DR

Loss of HP/TQ on the dyno and forget your cold starts.

 
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Anyone know how cold it needs to be in order for the grid heater to cycle after engine start, if WTS has been skipped? I live in the valley of NorCal and it rarely gets below 30. I don't think I can remember a day in my life it was ever colder than 20.
 
I just did the banks big horn. Not a fan boy but got a good deal on it and helped with other things i did on my truck. Not worried of too many super cold starts.

53k miles on mine, i am in Oregon so weather rarely goes below 25deg. I used my truck for work so it was starting every morning rain, shine, snow during the winter. I would say the grid heat was used a lot just based on average winter temps we get.


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Yeah I'd say that bolt/nut was about to fail. Lots of slag where the nut contacts the bus bar. You dodged a bullet in my book...
 
Anyone know how cold it needs to be in order for the grid heater to cycle after engine start, if WTS has been skipped? I live in the valley of NorCal and it rarely gets below 30. I don't think I can remember a day in my life it was ever colder than 20.
You don’t need the grid heater at all then but I know my heater has cycled at 32°F while running im not sure what the programmed parameters are though
 
It's not running the grid heater if you bypass WTS.

However, the ECM *may* cycle the grid heater if needed during engine warmup. That's why disconnecting and bypassing WTS can STILL throw a code if it's cold enough to demand the heater cycle during engine warmup.

You don’t need the grid heater at all then but I know my heater has cycled at 32°F while running im not sure what the programmed parameters are though

I always push twice to start with my grid heater relay disconnected so to avoid the CEL light and code that can come from the initial start. I know I have driven my truck in 35-40 degree weather after starting with the two push method. But I have not had any CEL or code then either. So maybe it has to be below freezing for the grid heater to cycle when you are warming up or start driving?

I did get the CEL light and code once a long time ago when I forgot to push the start button twice. But I cleared it easily with my iDash. Then someone told me the code clears on its own if you hook the relay back up and let it cold WTS as designed. Maybe the computer sees a normal cold start then and is programmed to clear the code?
 
I always push twice to start with my grid heater relay disconnected so to avoid the CEL light and code that can come from the initial start. I know I have driven my truck in 35-40 degree weather after starting with the two push method. But I have not had any CEL or code then either. So maybe it has to be below freezing for the grid heater to cycle when you are warming up or start driving?

I did get the CEL light and code once a long time ago when I forgot to push the start button twice. But I cleared it easily with my iDash. Then someone told me the code clears on its own if you hook the relay back up and let it cold WTS as designed. Maybe the computer sees a normal cold start then and is programmed to clear the code?
All codes will reset after the system sees thing operating normal for a certain amount of cycles
 
I always push twice to start with my grid heater relay disconnected so to avoid the CEL light and code that can come from the initial start. I know I have driven my truck in 35-40 degree weather after starting with the two push method. But I have not had any CEL or code then either. So maybe it has to be below freezing for the grid heater to cycle when you are warming up or start driving?

I did get the CEL light and code once a long time ago when I forgot to push the start button twice. But I cleared it easily with my iDash. Then someone told me the code clears on its own if you hook the relay back up and let it cold WTS as designed. Maybe the computer sees a normal cold start then and is programmed to clear the code?

Even with the double start method you’ll eventually get a code. I got a code 3-4 times with the double tap method when my grid heater was unplugged.

The CEL might clear on its own, but the code is stored if you don’t clear it.

Anyone know how cold it needs to be in order for the grid heater to cycle after engine start, if WTS has been skipped? I live in the valley of NorCal and it rarely gets below 30. I don't think I can remember a day in my life it was ever colder than 20.

If the grid heater would have been used for pre-heat it will likely be used for post-heat. Depending on your alternator setup you might be able to see this with the voltmeter. With my 440A setup it’s generally indiscernible on the voltmeter, but was visible on my ‘18 with a single 220A alternator.
 
With my 440A setup it’s generally indiscernible on the voltmeter, but was visible on my ‘18 with a single 220A alternator.
Yep I find the same, the only time I can really tell is if I run the compressor for the air bags you can hear the difference in the compressor sounds as the heater cycles
 
Even with the double start method you’ll eventually get a code. I got a code 3-4 times with the double tap method when my grid heater was unplugged.

The CEL might clear on its own, but the code is stored if you don’t clear it.
Thanks. I have probably had the relay disconnected for a cumulative 1-2 years since owning the truck and so far only the CEL that one time I did not push the button twice. Just lucky so far I guess, although I only have about 15,000 miles on the truck.
 
My CEL lights up after every three double-tap cold starts now. The relay has been disconnected since the relay issue was first announced. Up until about 2-3 months ago, I only triggered a CEL once when I didn't do the double-tap quick enough. My truck is a 2021 H.O. that I ordered and received in May 2021. I am baffled as to why the change has occurred. The truck has never been back to the dealer, so no reprogramming has been done. Each time the CEL sets, I clear it easily with my iDash. I live in Oregon also and the truck is always garaged. The double-tap is not even working in the warmer weather we have been having lately. The truck has just over 24,000 miles on the clock.

Electronics are great, until they're not!
 
My CEL lights up after every three double-tap cold starts now. The relay has been disconnected since the relay issue was first announced. Up until about 2-3 months ago, I only triggered a CEL once when I didn't do the double-tap quick enough. My truck is a 2021 H.O. that I ordered and received in May 2021. I am baffled as to why the change has occurred. The truck has never been back to the dealer, so no reprogramming has been done. Each time the CEL sets, I clear it easily with my iDash. I live in Oregon also and the truck is always garaged. The double-tap is not even working in the warmer weather we have been having lately. The truck has just over 24,000 miles on the clock.

Electronics are great, until they're not!
Could it be related to the long time it has been disconnected? I have hooked mine up a few times along the way, in very cold weather once and also when to the dealer for oil change. Maybe try hooking back up the relay for a few days and then disconnect again and see if it goes back to the way it was.
 
In the last day or two, the temperature has been a few degrees warmer, and the truck starts with a singe tap of the start button. Who knows what hooks are built into the programming!
 
I saw somewhere online a guy with a 3rd gen connected the black and yellow wires from the grid heater relay to a 10w/20ohm resistor and has never had a code or CEL. No idea if it's the same setup for my 2022 but at some point I'm going to try it.
 
I saw somewhere online a guy with a 3rd gen connected the black and yellow wires from the grid heater relay to a 10w/20ohm resistor and has never had a code or CEL. No idea if it's the same setup for my 2022 but at some point I'm going to try it.

The 3rd gen trucks didn’t need anything to be CEL free as long as you left the relay installed.
 
I installed the BD kit on my 2015 (pics), yet to do it on my 2019 (have kit for it too sitting and waiting). Nut on 2015 looked intact but the price of the kit was worth the piece of mind so I don't need to worry about it ever again. While at it I cleaned out all the intake soot and removed a bunch of useless junk that was sitting in the engine bay :D
This past winter we had temps down to -50C in Central-Northern Alberta and my grid heater was cycling quite a few times after the start up - voltage was dropping low enough on every cycle to display a message.
 

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I installed the BD kit on my 2015 (pics), yet to do it on my 2019 (have kit for it too sitting and waiting). Nut on 2015 looked intact but the price of the kit was worth the piece of mind so I don't need to worry about it ever again. While at it I cleaned out all the intake soot and removed a bunch of useless junk that was sitting in the engine bay :D
This past winter we had temps down to -50C in Central-Northern Alberta and my grid heater was cycling quite a few times after the start up - voltage was dropping low enough on every cycle to display a message.
Looks good. I did the opposite ……gave my 19 the BD when I did the elimination. Still have to do the 12. How do you like the crankcase breather? Did you gut the filter? Thx.
 
Looks good. I did the opposite ……gave my 19 the BD when I did the elimination. Still have to do the 12. How do you like the crankcase breather? Did you gut the filter? Thx.
Breather is OK it just sits there, if and when it starts seeping oil, I'll deal with it, just didn't want all that crap going into my turbo. I'll be changing out the filter when it's time to do so, they're fairly cheap and last a while.
 
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