HillbillySneaker
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As far as I can tell this is probably my best bet.You could add limiting straps if you are worried about it over flexing and having the spring unseat.
As far as I can tell this is probably my best bet.You could add limiting straps if you are worried about it over flexing and having the spring unseat.
I’ve had multiple Bilsteins in the past on my diesel trucks and liked them for towing. I bought this truck for different purposes so I wanted something as soft as possible.I went with Bilstein 5160s and stock springs since the 5160s handle vehicles with heavy loads better almost like adding stiffer springs. They do not ride as soft initially but control the loads much better overall than the stock Bilsteins did. No wallowy feel like having too soft of springs.
From my experience, the Fox 2.0 are much softer, and really are quite good. However, I prefer firmer shocks, and my current King 2.5 Carli tuned shocks fit that bill. I also had no complaints on the stock bilsteins (except they are too short for my 2.5" carli levelling coils)I’ve had multiple Bilsteins in the past on my diesel trucks and liked them for towing. I bought this truck for different purposes so I wanted something as soft as possible.
I only got to drive the truck once but they did feel softer than the Bilsteins. Once the new transmission is in I’ll quickly put a bunch of miles on it. Both on and off road. I wish Carli offered a set of shocks and springs for factory height trucks. I called and asked but they have no option for such a thing.From my experience, the Fox 2.0 are much softer, and really are quite good. However, I prefer firmer shocks, and my current King 2.5 Carli tuned shocks fit that bill. I also had no complaints on the stock bilsteins (except they are too short for my 2.5" carli levelling coils)

Rear yes but not completely, front no.Question do the wheel well liners have to come out to replace the front or rear shocks?
I didn’t try to exchange the shocks because I put a fairly large scratch on one of them trying to install it. I stumbled across a set of lightly used Thuren soft ride springs for sale on facebook so I bought them. I called Thuren and ordered the rest of the supporting rear end parts. Install last Friday was a pain but thanks to a couple coworkers we got it done in about 5 hours. That was total time start to finish which included some breaks for responding to calls. I had to cut the stems of both Bilstein shocks to get them off and enlist the help of a near 300lb buddy to stand on the axle to make enough space to get the longer springs in place. The sway bar end links and brake bracket were straightforward and the rear shocks were the same pain in the butt they always are. (Until rereading this I forgot about the driveshaft hitting the skid plate so I’ll have to address that. If there’s already a fix anyone knows of I am open to suggestions.) After having them on for a few days I’d say the Thuren kit is definitely worth the money. It’s easy to feel the difference the springs and shocks make since the front axle still has the factory springs. I will add the front springs and track bar soon. There is a downside to this though which wasn’t entirely unforeseen. The side to side “sway” in the rear of the truck when hitting large bumps was drastically increased. That, I believe, is caused by play in my rear track bar, NOT the Thuren kit. Running my 35” Nittos at 37psi wasn’t doing me any favors either. I inflated them to the factory recommended 60/65psi and that helped quite a bit but the sway is still there. Knowing what I know now I would've installed Thurens rear track bar before or at the same time as the springs and shocks. I’d had only experienced that sway once before, when heavily loaded with camping gear for a week in Colorado so I didn’t think it would be as bad as it is now. I’ll order the track bar kit tomorrow but it’ll be a while before I can put it on as I am currently sitting here with my leg in a cast. Once that’s done I’ll stop hijacking’s this thread but I think this whole thing is related to the original topic of Fox shock length. Speaking of shock length, these are barely long enough to fall within Thurens specs. Once these shocks are wore out I’ll replace them with something from Thuren that is made for their springs.I didn’t notice it the first time I had the truck off the ground but the driveshaft was hitting a skid plate at full droop so they are definitely too long. I put the factory Bilsteins back on the truck and will try to exchange the 3-4” lift shocks for the 0-2” versions. As of now the 3-4” shocks in the front seem to be fine. I will update this if something changes.




How'd you make the shorter airbag cradles?i recently installed the Fox 2.5 IPF HTO shocks on my stock height PW.
Front 987-24-002 (for a Ford F250)
Rear 987-24-005
The Ford F250 Fox shocks have longer extended lengths that's closer match to the stock Bilstien but with longer collapse length. Second picture you can see how close the shock is about to bottom out when i hit the bump stops. The Fox shocks collapse length is about 1/2" longer.
The rear Ram specific Fox shocks seems fine. Bilstien extended length is about 1/4" longer.
FYI i lost a lot of up travel with the air bags. Took out the Daystar like cradles that were 3/4" thick and made my own air bag cradles to regain 1/2" of up travel.
Future plan is to add a 1.25" Front spring spacer. Kryptonite front extended bump stops and sawzall cut them down to the proper length. And a new adjustable track bar.
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They're nothing fancy. i got everything from my local metal supply yard. The bottom plates are pre cut 6" round 1/4" thick steel plates. The walls are these decorative 6" round rings. i believe they are used for building gates.How'd you make the shorter airbag cradles?


I assume you just epoxied them together, or is it welded?They're nothing fancy. i got everything from my local metal supply yard. The bottom plates are pre cut 6" round 1/4" thick steel plates. The walls are these decorative 6" round rings. i believe they are used for building gates.
sorry i edit my post. yes i welded the ring to the plateI assume you just epoxied them together, or is it welded?