I never thought when I posted this topic looking for a few good ideas that it would take off like it has. It seams that there are a ton of different options that can be utilized. An honestly , if i were keeping this rv for several years to come, I would more than likely just lift up the middle of the trailer with a combo suspension upgrade and larger tire size and go down to last set of holes on pin box. As you all know I'm just trying to get away with a cheap fix/ adjustment to get me by. I know I'm gonna have to do something because I've already in the last few days had to stop myself 3/4 of the way through a turn in a parking lot and backup to get strait and then finish off the turn so I wouldn't hit side of bed. So it's obviously something that's not just going to be a once in a while thing. I don't want to buy new tiers as mine still have plenty of tread depth left. I can adj the pin box with no problem on my own. Does anyone have any ideas of a suspension lift that could raise it up a few inches that's not a # of $$$$
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Fiver/pinbox clearance in full-size bed
- Thread starter Rich
- Start date
Nick
Well-Known Member
I looked at my pin box today it is a moryde it does not have those those angled edges going up . ju st on the flat pin area . they are about 700 and are great for chucking. I would also move the electrical junction box to the inside of the pin box it can hit your side in an uneven twisty situation
Just wack the back corner of the pinbox frame mount off and call it done.
Ok, so this is where I'm at now. I've got pin box all the way down in lowest hole set to raise rv to highest height ( at pin box only). Looks a he'll of a lot better as far as angle goes, will it be enough to clear, won't know until we leave in about a month. I should of gained about 2" more lift. Now the only down side is that I went from 10 bolts down to 8 bolts. I'm personally not concerned about that as it's 13k not 25k. 8 bolts should be plenty to get the job done for strength. Also, I took the liberty of some of you all's very good suggestion and to move the electrical junction box inside pin box area, so I did that and cleaned up the wiring a bit. Not convienant to access wires if need be but I don't care, would rather not hit my bed rails on that thing. Now I'm working with mor-ryde on a inexpensive suspension solution to give me some more lift on the RV over the axle. I currently have the mor-ryde 3000 series, dont know if the 4000 will give me more lift ( obviously more travel) or is there a different product to jack her up in the center.
Thanks Carl and hemi, I will in about 3 wks when we leave, then I can do the jack knife test to see how much more that I need. Wich imop will most definitely need to be at the trailer axles. Again, will be selling in about 18 months so I dont need to rebuild the whole suspension. Springs are already over axles and my current suspension is the mor-ryde cre3000, the lre or sre 4000 looks pretty nice sand it give a little lift and provide more travel so everything in the rv isn't laying on the floor but again, thats a $500 - $700 upgrade. I wonder if they sell like a 2" spacer. Any ideas how to economically Lyft the fiver with out spending a ton to get me by
Has anyone used those Rubicon 2" lift blocks that simply go between axle and leaf spring and how was the instal. This ought to level out RV a little better anyway and give a little more clearance for pin box in bed to go over bed rails.
IMHO, the only safe way is to have 2" tubing welded to the bottom of the frame and have all the hangers relocated.
Yeah, thats what most of the videos ive watched have stated as well. Unfortunately that's just something I can do in my situation, but I agree, that would be the most sound. The lippert correct track alignment system sounds good to, it also does a 2" lift. Im obviously looking for the cheap fix, wich i know isn't the best idea, but I can't stand the thought of putting money into something thats not worth that much. Just want it to be safe and help with a lift
So here's where I'm at with this 2" economical fiver lift. Like I've stated in the past, I'm getting rid of this thing in 18 months so no need to spend $600 + $$$. I've got two options in mind on tandem axle sets.
Rubicon 2" lift blocks re1270, $60 + cost of 8 u bolts
Pros: extremely solid
: cheap fix
Cons: I worry about them comin out but they did have that nipple to hold in place
Lippert correct track alignment/2" lift kit Lc87220, cost $260
Pros: no need to worry about coming out
Con: very durable but not as solid as a cast iron block
Any thoughts or suggestions on wich to choose.
Rubicon 2" lift blocks re1270, $60 + cost of 8 u bolts
Pros: extremely solid
: cheap fix
Cons: I worry about them comin out but they did have that nipple to hold in place
Lippert correct track alignment/2" lift kit Lc87220, cost $260
Pros: no need to worry about coming out
Con: very durable but not as solid as a cast iron block
Any thoughts or suggestions on wich to choose.
Rich, I think you're going to need a fancy hauler bed conversion to go with that new Luxe when you get it. Might as well do it now.
P.S. I didn't catch it before, but I used to use one of those tripod stabilizers. Hated lugging it around and setting it up. Plus it had a missing foot. Royal PITA.
I installed the SteadyFast! stabilizer and we love it. You probably won't need anything with a hydraulic system on your new 25K rig, just throwing it out there if any others are interested.
Couple good vids on the system.
I installed the SteadyFast! stabilizer and we love it. You probably won't need anything with a hydraulic system on your new 25K rig, just throwing it out there if any others are interested.
Couple good vids on the system.
YOUR right, that tripod is a pima . Does make a huge difference tough, my wife gets vertigo easy and that fixes it. That stabilizer you have there is the best imop, pricey but super effective. I'm thinking on the new rig, with it being so heavy and a tri axle that i shouldn't need all that stuff anymore, at least i hope not. As far as the bed conversion goes, thats what the wife wanted from the git go, until I told her the nice and fancy ones were about 20-25 k more$$$$$. That kind of settled that debate quick. But there the rv dream machine that's for sure. Hopefully when I make a turn with this set up I don't convert my new bed myself with a little slicing snd dicing of the pin box
carlrx7
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check it out Rich.
I might look into this one. Save big $$$ not having to buy a Curt companion and get some suspension from the rv.
genyhitch.com
I might look into this one. Save big $$$ not having to buy a Curt companion and get some suspension from the rv.
5th Wheel Pin Box Replacement with Gooseneck Coupler (Manual Latch)
The GEN-Y Hitch EXECUTIVE 5th Wheel Pin Box Replacement with Gooseneck Coupler allows the user to hook a Fifth Wheel RV to the truck with a gooseneck ball.
genyhitch.com
Man that's one fine piece of engineering excellence, I like it. I already spent the $1500 on the 30k fiver hitch, so if I bought that system, not only would I lose the 1500 I already spent then I'd have to spend another $1100 + tax & sh & then the couple hundred on a goose ball and chains. So as much as like that system, I got what I got at this point. When i leave here in 2 wks ill be able to recheck what my new Clearance will be after getting the most lift out of my pin box, then if I do anything else ill probably just do something cheap under the RV suspension like either 2" lifter blocks or that lippert correct track system that also does a lift of 2". I don't really want to keep going higher up front, I need to start lifting from the RV suspension.check it out Rich.
I might look into this one. Save big $$$ not having to buy a Curt companion and get some suspension from the rv.
5th Wheel Pin Box Replacement with Gooseneck Coupler (Manual Latch)
The GEN-Y Hitch EXECUTIVE 5th Wheel Pin Box Replacement with Gooseneck Coupler allows the user to hook a Fifth Wheel RV to the truck with a gooseneck ball.
On a side note. The wife and I re organized everything inside and out of the RV, now that I got my truck bed tool box system, I took as much weight off as I could from behind the RV axles and placed as much as I could in the truck bed and in front of rv. So maybe now the RV will ride better and not look like a milk shake inside upon destination arrival. Love my long bed.
carlrx7
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In the video they also mentioned their friend with a Luxe had the same issue, so it may benifit you to sell the 30k fiver hitch, and buy the gen-y now then, move it over and reinstall your current pin box when you trade/sell it (easy swap vs suspension)
Yea I heard that in the video. I definitely like that set up. The luxe sits higher than my current rig, so that will help. Plus when I make the deal, "eventually", I will negotiate into the deal a bit of a taller tire and ill pick out a pin box that I like that will work. Now that I know what I'm looking for. Never even thought about the pin box being an issue on a full size truck, I guess I just over looked that part, but glad I am figuring it out now so I can plan on it going forward with the big rig. The guy at lippert said its because on today trucks, they sit higher than older models, wich sounds accurate but he also said that manufacturers have made the bed rails higher as well, wich may or may not be true, i don't remember what my ole 96 dodge duelly measured at.
lovegolf44
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I'm new to this stuff so you're saying the basic leveling stands on 5th wheels along with wheel chocks/scissors just don't keep the RV stable enough?
My wife gets real bad vertigo. I can notice subtle differences with each stabilizer addition but she can really tell a big difference. Imop, this topic really is, the more you do, the better it becomes. It really depends on your personnel sensitivity level. If we just camped, I wouldn't worry about any of it, side to side level, scissor locks between wheels, tripod in front and I would just drop factory jacks, but since we live this life we want better than just camping, aka glamping. I also have seen allot of people use jacks stands under there slides but I don't want to Fart around with all that and the research I've done says those aren't good on the slides for long term use. I think its just all personnel preference. I do really like those stabilizer rods that brutal uses that attaches to your factory jacks, front and rear. People will swear by those things that they totally take out any RV movement, but they aren't cheap.
Ps: what was this thread about, got side tracked. Fiver pin box Clarence. So to say too that. You need enough clearance to clear bed rails and ride as level as possible, don't be that guy who says, ohh ill never turn that tight to hit my bed, as I come very close every time I pull off the rd into a parking lot for lunch or fuel and then if you get into that predicament, if you don't have clearance your screwed. AKA FUBAR.
So I forgot to post these clearance pics almost a wk ago. This is with the pin box all the way down for maximum clearance and i also have my pin head at hitch lifted up one 2" notch off of the floor. I am nose high on the front of fiver so anymore adj. Would be done to the rv suspension, but i believe ill live with this wich is basically level with bed. So it would be questionable if it would hit or not, but also note that in this picture I'm at my tightest turn radius and bed is lowered for travel. So the only time that its turned tighter than this is in a jack knife situation where I've backed in stupid, wich I would never do 
.
If I'm wrong and already posted this on another thread, sorry but I'm old
.If I'm wrong and already posted this on another thread, sorry but I'm old