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El Barto’s Power Wagon

el_barto

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I’ve had my Power Wagon about 2 years now, I guess it’s time to do a build thread.
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The story starts when I traded in my 2015 Chevy Colorado. It was a pretty solid truck, put over 100k miles on it in 5 years, but I wasn’t as religious with some of the maintenance as I should have been, so I felt it was a bit of a ticking bomb. Also it had a few quirks (both flaws, baked in design oddities/limitations, and limited aftermarket support—though that has improved) that were driving me to get rid it it.
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I did start getting into off-roading with it, didn’t do anything too difficult though. I put about 4” of lift on the truck, and it still handled really good: Icon rear shocks and front coilovers, 1.25” body lift, rear add a leaf, 32” tires which was the biggest I could fit…Unfortunately, you need like 5-6” of lift on that truck to clear 33s :/ Decided I wanted a full size truck, liked that the Power Wagon was set up for off-roading right out of the box and could wear 35s with no extra lift, and felt it was a far better value/will hold its value better then than a Rebel. I liked the Gladiator, but feel they are overpriced when you compare features to a Power Wagon, and I wanted a full size bed.

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Fast forward to November 2019, I test drive a Power Wagon and tell the dealer I would like to do a custom order. The sales manager tells me he has a couple Power Wagons in transit that I might like instead. One checked most of the option boxes I wanted and he offered me a killer deal I couldn’t turn down vs probably paying best MSRP on a custom order. Importantly, it has heated seats and steering wheel. It just has the regular 8.4” screen and regular seats(no leather), but has surround view/blind spot monitoring! I would have not optioned the surround view, but not that I have it I love it. I also would have preferred vinyl floors, but the mats offer good coverage.
First things first, the tires swapped for 35s within the first week.

For the bed cover, I first got a Diamondback bed cover, ran that for about a year and a half. Though it looked great, and was solid…it just wasn’t working for me…felt like it was limiting the useable space of the bed. So, sold that and got a fiberglass topper. It has its compromises too, but I think it’s a better fit for my needs, and it looks decent.
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I have added some armor to the belly of the beast, in addition to the factory skid plates: White Knuckle sliders, Dethloff transmission skid plate, Carli front diff guard, and AEV rear bumper. Valuable investments…front diff is low and exposed to rocks, transmission pan is higher up—but plastic, and the rock sliders serve well as entry steps, as well as protecting the body of the truck.
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I loved the AEV rear bumper the first time I saw it, so I had to get one. Doesn’t improve the departure angle over stock, but it it does scrape, it is stout enough to handle it.
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Sadly the factory aux switches are not available on the power wagon, so I installed the SwitchPros 9100 to control all my electrical accessories. This makes wiring much easier than running wires into the cab for every accessory, and looks so clean most would think it’s OEM.
So far, I just have an ARB compressor and rock lights, but Ive got some more lighting upgrades coming soon. The air compressor in mounted under the rear seat to a custom bracket, and I ran lines under the truck out to connectors in the front and rear bumpers for easy access for airing up tires.
I upgraded the alternator to the oem 220amp Denso hairpin-wount unit to help the battery keep up better when winching.

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A couple photos showing the Switch Pros keypad. I’ve got some stickers on there on keys that don’t do anything…yet!
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Power module is small and mounted forward of the PDC on a bracket made by SDHQ.
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The engineers at Mopar obviously put a lot of work into the Power Wagon suspension design which I didn’t want to mess with, and I don’t want to waive my warranty goodbye…so I was planning on leaving it stock. But, the stock shocks (Bilstein 4600) leave room for improvement, especially compared to the shocks on other offroad-oriented trucks in the segment. Well I was enticed by Fox 2.0 shocks based on price and performance. I have only put a few miles on them so far, but I have to say the ride was smoothed fairly dramatically! I can’t wait to try them out offroad!
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I also recently replaced the front bump stops with SuperSprings Sumo microcellular bump stops. The stock rubber bump stops are super firm —which is ok for a street driven truck, but not great offroad where you often use the full travel. Initial impressions are they slightly firmed up the ride(because they are much longer than the stock bumps, they engage often, but not aggressively), larger bumps are soaked up better. The rear bump stops SuperSprings offers are like Timbrens: stiffer, designed more for load carrying than offroad—so I will likely do Boogie Bumps there instead.
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Some other upgrades I have made to the truck, these all relatively small:

- Boost Auto Parts heated convex mirrors. Easy, inexpensive upgrade, assuming you don’t break the mirror motor like I did.

- Extended axle breather vents. Front one is very short , and though it has a trick gore-Tex valve I feel more comfortable with it Extended up into the engine bay Firewall. Rear is a standard gravity ball type valve, stock location is up above frame under the bed, I extended it to the rear taillight area.
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-4th Gen Floor Console. Requires some work to make it fit, but I think it’s a better use of space than just carpet and a pen tray. I also replaced the stock transfer case Shift knob with a custom engraved machine stainless knob. The Stock knob looks cheap on an otherwise nice interior. Made a graphic with the soft pattern that matches the font on the instrument cluster. It goes well with the nice aluminum rotary transmission shift knob.

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-Fumoto oil drain valve, not much to say other than it makes oil changes much cleaner.

-LED front turn signals. Every other exterior light is LED, had to upgrade the front turn signals. Very bright, provides crisp “on off” signal.
 
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About time you show the goods. :D

The trans cover looks simple enough. Can you show the mounting points for it?

And let us know what you think of your Naked Fox shocks after a few thousand miles.

Looking good. But did it not come with the power wagon label on the bed? Or did you take it off?
 
I wonder if those sumo bump stops would be suitable for a leveled truck instead of using a bump stop extender? I don't need the stability per-say but they are longer so wonder if they would work?

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About time you show the goods. :D

The trans cover looks simple enough. Can you show the mounting points for it?

And let us know what you think of your Naked Fox shocks after a few thousand miles.

Looking good. But did it not come with the power wagon label on the bed? Or did you take it off?
Trans skid plate is by Dethloff . It mounts to the skid plate frame crossmember thru some existing holes, and then to the frame using some trick custom flag nuts…not sure what changed but I understand it doesn’t work with the 2021/2022 trucks so they are working on a redesign. You can kind of see how it mounts in this image.
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I had the dealer remove all the Power Wagon decals when I bought it. I like it a bit more low key. I would remove the giant RAM emblem on the bed if it didn’t leave 100 holes.
 
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I wonder if those sumo bump stops would be suitable for a leveled truck instead of using a bump stop extender? I don't need the stability per-say but they are longer so wonder if they would work?

.
I don’t think only using ~1/2 of their length/capacity would be enough to provide sufficient bottom out impact absorption to stop the springs or shocks or whatever is the next item that would crash if the bump stops don’t limit the down travel.
 
TIL the Tazer Ram is able to adjust TPMS pressure settings without a dealership visit (on the 2019+ trucks). I’ve had the Tazer for like 2 years (got it to correct tire size) and have just been living with the TPMS light on this whole time because I thought I would have to go to the dealership to have them adjust it. D’oh!
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I wonder if those sumo bump stops would be suitable for a leveled truck instead of using a bump stop extender? I don't need the stability per-say but they are longer so wonder if they would work?

.

I don’t think only using ~1/2 of their length/capacity would be enough to provide sufficient bottom out impact absorption to stop the springs or shocks or whatever is the next item that would crash if the bump stops don’t limit the down travel.
If they’re like fox jounce bumpers or bump stops on the shock shafts, they have a compression limit and should become “hard” at some point. The manufacturer should be able to provide you the specs. You should also be able to trim them shorter if you want.

This is an graphical example of how a particular fox bumper acts under force and how much it will compress E179958E-B197-4055-A60C-F08A5836D5CF.jpeg
 
Trans skid plate is by Dethloff . It mounts to the skid plate frame crossmember thru some existing holes, and then to the frame using some trick custom flag nuts…not sure what changed but I understand it doesn’t work with the 2021/2022 trucks so they are working on a redesign. You can kind of see how it mounts in this image.
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I had the dealer remove all the Power Wagon decals when I bought it. I like it a bit more low key. I would remove the giant RAM emblem on the bed if it didn’t leave 100 holes.
Good to know about the rear 'ram' emblem. I ordered my white PW without the big PW sticker as well and was planning on taking off the "Power Wagon" and obsessively huge "RAM" off the back......looks like I'll be keeping mine as well. Was hoping they were on with 3M tape... Love the ride, good job on the upgrades!
 
Update: I haven’t really done anything with the truck let alone even drive it all summer…and it’s been great for my bank account

But the mod bug is itching me again and I’m looking to upgrade the fog lights. Which I will preface by saying the factory fog lights are very good, far better than anything I’ve ever had before, but there are brighter SAE options that entice me. (Worth noting there are a couple aspects to consider when a company claims “SAE Approved”…the beam pattern may be compliant but the output exceeds limitations. I’ve also seen lights that say SAE compliant but they only meet the requirements of the SAE durability standards not the output standards)

It seems, the key to unlocking these options is using the bezels and brackets from the Tradesman/Big Horn trim levels which allow for round foglights with the 4”x2”(50x100mm) bolt pattern. The popular kit is from CJC with Baja Designs lights which includes these pieces for those of us with the factory LED foglights or without foglights.
  • The bracket for the round lights is p/n 68449343AA
    • includes left and right
  • The bezels for round lights WITH parking sensors I found is 68449343AA
    • includes left and right
Fortunately they are pretty cheap, I paid about $50 shipped for the bezels and brackets.
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So now the question is…which lights???
I’ve found a few options which I think should fit ( Output for white light…reduced outputs for Amber options not listed)
  • Diode Dynamics Elite
    • Claimed Output: 10,200Cd, 1,850lm
    • Price: $220
    • ClaimedCompliance: SAE F3 Compliant, SAE J575 Durability Test, SAE J583 Foglamp Beam Pattern
  • Diode Dynamics SS3 Sport (fog pattern)
    • Claimed Output: 10,600Cd, 106lux@10m, 1,520lm(measured)/2,262lm(raw)
    • Price: $280
    • Claimed Compliance: SAE J575 Durability Test, SAE J583 Foglamp Beam Pattern
  • Diode Dynamics SS3 Pro (fog pattern)
    • Claimed Output: 11,900Cd, 119lux@10m, 3,000lm(measured)/5,796lm(raw)
    • Price: $380
    • Claimed Compliance: SAE J575 Durability Test, SAE J583 Foglamp Beam Pattern
  • Diode Dynamics SS3 Max (fog pattern)
    • Claimed Output: 18,000Cd, 180lux@10m, 3,500lm(measured)/7,290lm(raw)
    • Price: $580
    • Claimed Compliance: SAE J575 Durability Test, SAE J583 Foglamp Beam Pattern
  • Morimoto XB
    • Claimed Output: 1,200lm (raw/ea)
    • Price: $200
    • Claimed Compliance: DOT, ECE, SAE Standards
  • Morimoto 4Banger NCS
    • Claimed Output: 14,400Cd (Post Warmup)(144lux@10m)
    • Price: $380
    • Claimed Compliance: SAE F20(?), SAE J583 Foglamp Beam Pattern
  • Morimoto 4Banger HXB
    • Claimed Output: 22,400Cd (Post Warmup)(224lux@10m)
    • Price: $580
    • Claimed Compliance: SAE F20(?), SAE J583 Foglamp Beam Pattern
  • Baja Designs Squadron SAE
    • Claimed Output: 2,480lm
    • Price: $410
    • Claimed Compliance: SAE J583 Foglamp Beam
  • Rigid 360 Series Pro SAE
    • Claimed Output: 13,733Cd, 137.33lux@10m, 3445lm
    • Price: $610
    • Claimed Compliance: SAE J583 Foglamp Beam
    • Not officially listed fitment with Rams, but cross referencing other foglights I think the Subaru mounting pattern is the same.

I’m leaning towards the Diode Dynamics Elite due to their price, sharp cutoff (less glare for other drivers and better performance in fog) and their OEM-styling. And also too much power from the fog light can be detrimental by overpowering the headlamps and changing your focal length
 
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I'm currious to see what you think.. I really like the look of this kit... but its really hard to ignore just how good the factory LED foglights are... I've never seen anything with a beam that low and flat, its pretty close to 180 degrees and work as "ditch" lights.
 
I'm currious to see what you think.. I really like the look of this kit... but its really hard to ignore just how good the factory LED foglights are... I've never seen anything with a beam that low and flat, its pretty close to 180 degrees and work as "ditch" lights.
I totally agree the stock foglights have a great beam pattern & width because of how they wrap around the bumper, which is why I’ve been somewhat reluctant to change them out.
 
Do you have any more details on the 4th gen floor console?

What modifications did you have to make? Do they offer one without the 4wd shifter slot?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Do you have any more details on the 4th gen floor console?

What modifications did you have to make? Do they offer one without the 4wd shifter slot?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Just have to trim it to fit the console at the front and cut some of the ribs/supports underneath with a dremel. A bit time consuming(lots of test fitting, then remove to trim, repeat) to get it to fit perfect but not hard.

Did a bit of searching and it looks like a little tray is available to fill the tcase shifter opening.
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Ended up ordering the DD Elite Series fog lights in Amber. The foglight is a super tight fit in the bracket opening, I’m going to have to trim 1/8” or so on one side to get it to fit better.

Was a little on the fence about amber since they are a bit less bright than pure white and you kind of get the weird two layer lighting. I had yellow (halogen) foglights on my car years ago but it was more for looks…I don’t recall any significant improvement in fog/snow visibility and I also adapted to the two tone lighting easily, so I decided to give it another shot with proper bright ambers.

I’m going to run one Stock and one DD for a night or two to compare output and beam pattern.
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Hot take with just one side installed:
-Preface: Diode Dynamics does not list these foglights(or their SS3 kit) as fitting on the HDs. As far as I could tell, there shouldn’t be any real reason they wouldn’t work since other companies sell their same foglight kit for 1500s and HDs.
-I had to modify/trim the Mopar foglight brackets to get these foglights to fit. Not a big deal, a deburring reamer and a utility knife and maybe 30 minutes total.
-the H11 connector doesn’t “snap” into the factory H11 female connector. It’s in there and feels secure but the little snap clip doesn’t quite reach or something.
-About 1/4” gap between the bezel and the lens of the light. Doesn’t look too bad though, could fix with some washers or a spacer between the light and the bracket.
-The connection between the DD Bracket (which came pre installed) and the generic DD light is a bit loose. I don’t really know how to fix this, it’s basically a design flaw IMO. It’s not bad, but it’s not as solid as I would like.
-the light gives a nice wide beam, but is not as wide as OEM LED. This was expected, the OEM LED are Impressively wide because of the shape and placement of the lamp(practically sideways facing). This is a limitation of all aftermarket foglights that use the OEM Halogen brackets/bezels.
-The lights look nice, and seem a fair bit brighter than OEM. I didn’t want to go crazy with some 6-billion lumen plasma torch laser lights since they will be used on the street and should not overpower the headlights. If I end up not liking them, I can always go back to stock :)

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