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DUALLY VS SRW Mileage and so on.............

As others have said, you're not going to notice a huge difference between a SRW and DRW 3500 air ride truck towing that trailer. If it were a tall 5th wheel RV I'd say different, but a mid height tow behind like that is well within spec of that 3500. Yes, a DRW will offer more lateral stability, but it's not gonna offer enough longitudinal stability for you to notice much. I think the truck you have is the most ideal between the two, unless you just wan a new truck or DRW, which does have benefits.

As far as MPG. I've got 2 trucks, as you can see in my sig, and my dually is on a 0.5" front soft ride coil with 35s all the way around, and daily driving, I'm lucky if I get 14 mpg unloaded on the highway, generally around 12mpg mixed. My 2500 on 2.75" front, 2" rear coils, on 38x13.5 tires is getting 16-17 mpg hand calculated (long highway drives, little elevation changes), and around 14-15mpg mixed.

I absolutely love both, and even if I end up selling the RV in the future, it's gonna be really hard to let go of the dually. That said, my 2500 is more than capable of towing that trailer with a set of bags, even on 38s with all the unnecessary off-road stuff I've got slapped on it.
 
For 11,500 loaded, you have the right truck. Will the dually be more "stable"? Sure, theoretically yes -- but would be hard to notice in practice with that light weight.

My DRW, OEM rear air, Megacab, HO, 4.10's on 35" tires gets about 16mpg these days unloaded combined.

Towing our loaded 14k lb 5er at 70mph gets about 8.5mpg. If I slow it down to 60-65 it'll do 9 or 9.5.

Problem is with 4.10's and the HO cummins, I can tow as fast as I want anywhere I want, up any hill I want lol. It's an absolute BEAST of a tow pig.

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That is pretty well consistent with what I get solo and pulling a heavy fiver.
 
As others have said, you're not going to notice a huge difference between a SRW and DRW 3500 air ride truck towing that trailer. If it were a tall 5th wheel RV I'd say different, but a mid height tow behind like that is well within spec of that 3500. Yes, a DRW will offer more lateral stability, but it's not gonna offer enough longitudinal stability for you to notice much. I think the truck you have is the most ideal between the two, unless you just wan a new truck or DRW, which does have benefits.

As far as MPG. I've got 2 trucks, as you can see in my sig, and my dually is on a 0.5" front soft ride coil with 35s all the way around, and daily driving, I'm lucky if I get 14 mpg unloaded on the highway, generally around 12mpg mixed. My 2500 on 2.75" front, 2" rear coils, on 38x13.5 tires is getting 16-17 mpg hand calculated (long highway drives, little elevation changes), and around 14-15mpg mixed.

I absolutely love both, and even if I end up selling the RV in the future, it's gonna be really hard to let go of the dually. That said, my 2500 is more than capable of towing that trailer with a set of bags, even on 38s with all the unnecessary off-road stuff I've got slapped on it.
Yes, I want a new Truck. I do not need one. I think I could fall in love with a Dually, like you. I don't mind taking more time to find an appropriate spot to park etc. 90% of the time I am towing so 90% of the time the fact that the Truck is is a Dually won't matter. I am shopping and I likely will end up in a dually, because the Air Suspension is a MUST. My mileage will likely be better because I drive slower and I intend to keep it stock as far as wheels/tires etc......
 
Yes, I want a new Truck. I do not need one. I think I could fall in love with a Dually, like you. I don't mind taking more time to find an appropriate spot to park etc. 90% of the time I am towing so 90% of the time the fact that the Truck is is a Dually won't matter. I am shopping and I likely will end up in a dually, because the Air Suspension is a MUST. My mileage will likely be better because I drive slower and I intend to keep it stock as far as wheels/tires etc......
Sounds like this discussion helped you make up your mind, and you will buy a dually ...
 
Sounds like this discussion helped you make up your mind, and you will buy a dually ...
This statement confirms it "There is nothing I'd rather have when im towing than my DRW". Since I tow 90% of the time...........

Also this is my daily driver. But not in the sense that I drive it every day. I only drop the trailer and drive it when I need to haul something or drive far away and the trailer can't come with. Normal Day puttering around the house I walk to get lunch and I walk to get Dinner and do small shopping errands etc.....
 
For that size trailer, I would be tempted to buy a truck with a wide track front axle, like are found on the 4500 and 5500.

The downside is that I could not find the megacab offered for the 4500 and 5500.
That is ridiculous there is absolutely no need for a wide trac or dually for that trailer, I would haul that with my 2500 problem free I would not even bother using my dually for that one.
 
This statement confirms it "There is nothing I'd rather have when im towing than my DRW". Since I tow 90% of the time...........

Also this is my daily driver. But not in the sense that I drive it every day. I only drop the trailer and drive it when I need to haul something or drive far away and the trailer can't come with. Normal Day puttering around the house I walk to get lunch and I walk to get Dinner and do small shopping errands etc.....

I generally don't like driving my truck. It's a tool and is required for the RV I have, so I endure.

*BUT*

Two things I love about it's unloaded characteristics:
1) The rear air makes the ride WAY more comfortable than my previous truck (2500 regular cab gasser with the springs).
2) Those duals provide so much stability which is really noticeable on corners. It handles so stinking well... I fly around these windy country roads like nascar! :p
 
I generally don't like driving my truck. It's a tool and is required for the RV I have, so I endure.

*BUT*

Two things I love about it's unloaded characteristics:
1) The rear air makes the ride WAY more comfortable than my previous truck (2500 regular cab gasser with the springs).
2) Those duals provide so much stability which is really noticeable on corners. It handles so stinking well... I fly around these windy country roads like nascar! :p

I'll have to disagree on number 1. My 2016 2500 with rear coils was an absolute joy to drive unloaded compared to my DRW (ride-wise). The ride on the 2500 was shockingly good for a HD truck.

I also have rear air on the DRW. I bought the adjustable links so I can adjust the psi in my air bags and run them pretty low to help with the ride. That along with 38-40 psi in my rear tires when unloaded certainly helps, but it's still nowhere near as nice as my 2500 was.

I'll agree on the stability. When youre towing, there simply is nothing better. Blows the 2500 away everywhere when im towing although admittedly, the 2500 was plagued by the 3.42 rear end.
 
you can't get a dually through a car wash if that matters to you - also have to replace 6 tires vice 4 (tires are not cheap).
 
you can't get a dually through a car wash if that matters to you - also have to replace 6 tires vice 4 (tires are not cheap).
I can fit my dually through some carwashes but the tires is not that big of a deal since you usually get way more life out of the rears in my experience….
 
I'll have to disagree on number 1. My 2016 2500 with rear coils was an absolute joy to drive unloaded compared to my DRW (ride-wise). The ride on the 2500 was shockingly good for a HD truck.

I also have rear air on the DRW. I bought the adjustable links so I can adjust the psi in my air bags and run them pretty low to help with the ride. That along with 38-40 psi in my rear tires when unloaded certainly helps, but it's still nowhere near as nice as my 2500 was.

SRW to SRW I've had the opposite experience, the auto-level 3500 with proper tire pressure rides better than a 2500 coil spring truck with proper tire pressure.

I am not sure keeping the airbag pressure low is the right answer for a better ride since that will get you closer to the overloads and make abrupt contact easier and give a harsh ride.
 
SRW to SRW I've had the opposite experience, the auto-level 3500 with proper tire pressure rides better than a 2500 coil spring truck with proper tire pressure.

I am not sure keeping the airbag pressure low is the right answer for a better ride since that will get you closer to the overloads and make abrupt contact easier and give a harsh ride.

Makes sense.

Throwing another 90 lbs of tire/wheel on each end of the rear axle does NOTHING good for ride quality haha.
 
I daily my DRW, I really don't think its much more of a nuisance than a SRW truck. I even park in parkin garages with no issues(as a last option). You do have to watch your hips but you will eventually get a custom to the added width and your driving will adjust to account for them. I added fender flares so that makes me a little wider but nothing crazy.

I like having the DRW because things change in life and sometimes you need more truck, so I like having it. I went from a SRW to the DRW when we went to a 5th Wheel trailer. No regrets, the added stability alone was worth it.

I do feel the DRW would help with what you experiencing on the freeway, if you know someone with a DRW maybe ask them if you pull your trailer with it.

In my previous DRW I had 4.10s, got 12-13 in town unloaded. Towing was between 9-11 MPG depending on terrain and speed.

My current DRW as 3.73 gears and gets 14mpg in town, towing is the same as with 4.10s
 

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SRW to SRW I've had the opposite experience, the auto-level 3500 with proper tire pressure rides better than a 2500 coil spring truck with proper tire pressure.

I am not sure keeping the airbag pressure low is the right answer for a better ride since that will get you closer to the overloads and make abrupt contact easier and give a harsh ride.
I had a 2018 3500 CC SRW with regular springs and it was a drag on So Cal freeways. When I got the 3500 MC with auto level rear air it was like night and day difference. Heck, I even keep my tires at 80PSI all the time. THAT is why I would never consider one without it. Never........I'll just keep the truck I have.
 
Dually and 4.10s will put your mpg in the toilet that’s my prediction
That has not been my experience. A friend and I purchased our trucks within a couple of months of each other. His is a SRW with a 3.73. Mine is an HO DRW with a 4.10. Our fuel mileage on the same roads does not have a discernable difference. I’m guessing mine will be a bit lower because of additional weight, the extra tires and the HO engine, but the 4.10 vs 3.73 has little impact. It takes a specific amount of energy to move a given load over a given course. The only impact on fuel economy between the two will depend upon where the truck is on the engine efficiency curve. The engine RPM will be 10% higher with the 4.10 at the same speed in the same gear, but the engine may not be lugging as much and may have a lower throttle position. Also, pulling a heavy trailer up a grade or against a head wind might drop you a gear with the 3.73. I don’t have any data but towing with a 4.10 might be more efficient than with a 3.73. On the interstate, unloaded, at over 75 mph, the 3.73 will be a bit better than the 4.10 but not by 10%.

Regarding the DRW experience, I wouldn’t have gotten the DRW it I didn’t need it. However, the experience with it, even using it as a daily driver, has been OK. We have never not been able to go someplace because of it.
 
I daily my DRW, I really don't think its much more of a nuisance than a SRW truck. I even park in parkin garages with no issues(as a last option). You do have to watch your hips but you will eventually get a custom to the added width and your driving will adjust to account for them. I added fender flares so that makes me a little wider but nothing crazy.

I like having the DRW because things change in life and sometimes you need more truck, so I like having it. I went from a SRW to the DRW when we went to a 5th Wheel trailer. No regrets, the added stability alone was worth it.

I do feel the DRW would help with what you experiencing on the freeway, if you know someone with a DRW maybe ask them if you pull your trailer with it.

In my previous DRW I had 4.10s, got 12-13 in town unloaded. Towing was between 9-11 MPG depending on terrain and speed.

My current DRW as 3.73 gears and gets 14mpg in town, towing is the same as with 4.10s
I was thinking about renting a dually Ram and Tow my trailer around. There is an Enterprise Truck Rental nearby and I did see one there. But it is a long bed. Besides I KNOW towing I will like it better. About the only thing I did not think of so far is the not fitting in car washes. It's funny because ALL my life I always washed my own Vehicles and I finally have enough money to start using car washes. Go figure.............

I have already had to adjust my driving style because of the longer trailer. It's 6' longer and a little wider and I am shocked how much harder it is to manuver around parking lots etc. So, I think I will just have to parlay that adjustment to the unhooked Truck, if I get the Dually.

Another thing that was said above. I like to attack the hills. I also really prefer staying in 6th gear. I can't stand the truck downshifting all the time. The current truck does really well but it's not perfect. Also there is an issue with it getting into 6th gear when in Tow Haul. Without is shifts to 6th at 43 MPH. In Tow Haul is will not shift to 6th until 66 MPH and remember my number is 65. So that means many times I am struggling to get into 6th. So, I turn the Tow Haoul off once I exceed 60 MPH and then turn it right back on. I have done this thousands of times. Literally. It will hold 6th all the way down to 60 once it's in. ALSO, towing without TH is NOT an option. You need the remapping of the Transmission and exhaust brake in a Panick Stop. So it better be in...........OK, so my point is, if the Dually has 4.10 gears I am pretty sure it will eliminate this issue for me and it will go up 99.99% of the Hills in 6th. Honestly this is likely one of the top reasons for me to do this.
 
That has not been my experience. A friend and I purchased our trucks within a couple of months of each other. His is a SRW with a 3.73. Mine is an HO DRW with a 4.10. Our fuel mileage on the same roads does not have a discernable difference. I’m guessing mine will be a bit lower because of additional weight, the extra tires and the HO engine, but the 4.10 vs 3.73 has little impact. It takes a specific amount of energy to move a given load over a given course. The only impact on fuel economy between the two will depend upon where the truck is on the engine efficiency curve. The engine RPM will be 10% higher with the 4.10 at the same speed in the same gear, but the engine may not be lugging as much and may have a lower throttle position. Also, pulling a heavy trailer up a grade or against a head wind might drop you a gear with the 3.73. I don’t have any data but towing with a 4.10 might be more efficient than with a 3.73. On the interstate, unloaded, at over 75 mph, the 3.73 will be a bit better than the 4.10 but not by 10%.

Regarding the DRW experience, I wouldn’t have gotten the DRW it I didn’t need it. However, the experience with it, even using it as a daily driver, has been OK. We have never not been able to go someplace because of it.
It was just a prediction but since we’re on the subject.. a truck that weighs more and runs higher RPM will get worse gas mileage.
 
It was just a prediction but since we’re on the subject.. a truck that weighs more and runs higher RPM will get worse gas mileage.

And has more drag from the hips, front wheels, and the unsprung weight increase….

The 10% rpm increase is likely has the smallest impact on fuel economy at legal cruising speeds. Above 85 mph I could see a decent impact
 
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