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Dual steering damper

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Clacombe

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I have a stock 2022 Ram 2500 4x4 with no lift. Is there a dual damper system out there that can be installed without additional lift? Tires are 275/33.2”.
 
There is absolutely no reason to install a dual stabilizer on that truck, would be a waste of money. The stock stabilizer works just fine for it's intended purpose. I'm on 35's, and at 172k miles and still have the original stock stabilizer and it drives like a dream. If you are having front end issues you need to find the problem and repair it.

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I’m starting to feel a little bump steer. Nothing like death wobble. Was also thinking I need to check ball joints, balance tires. Thoughts?
 
i would not go with a dual steering damper, it just looks cool and empties your pockets. There are a lot of OEM fit aftermarket steering dampers. I would say for 80% of people they are over kill and just bragging rights. I myself installed Thuren King tuned damper and it was a noticeable difference over stock. Just remeber the aftermarket premium stuff is high maintenance and you never get longevity before rebuild. I would suggest taking your truck to an alignment shop and have them set it to Thuren specs, I saw the most difference in driving doing that.

alignment spec sheet
https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0510/0529/2724/files/13-22_2500_3500_PW.pdf?v=1638206406
 
If you want to eliminate the damper from your equating, put on the 5100 and be done with that cheap and quick.
It really improved the wheel-feel over stock imo…
 
Dinky503 said:
yep i would recommend this for most people, unless you have money to set on fire and i can help with that too.
Click to expand...
Indeed…For myself it isn’t the associated cost when the premium stuff needs servicing/rebuilding, it’s the propensity for it to fail at inopportune time. Like, three days into a two week elk hunt…had enough of that with Fox so KISS.
 
Poolmonkey said:
Indeed…For myself it isn’t the associated cost when the premium stuff needs servicing/rebuilding, it’s the propensity for it to fail at inopportune time. Like, three days into a two week elk hunt…had enough of that with Fox so KISS.
Click to expand...

I had Fox 2.0 shocks on my 3500 for 500miles, 3 of the 4 blew out. I would stay away from any Fox entry level products i have heard a number of defect issues. I have fox 2.5 elite shocks on my Gladiator and could be happier.
 
Turns out I have slight movement in the drag link so hope to avoid high dollar fix with adjustment.
 
This is what I’m referring to. There seems to be some small movement where the silver colored threaded piece goes into the bar. Should that be torqued as you suggest? Or are you speaking of something else?
 

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Dinky503 said:
I had Fox 2.0 shocks on my 3500 for 500miles, 3 of the 4 blew out. I would stay away from any Fox entry level products i have heard a number of defect issues. I have fox 2.5 elite shocks on my Gladiator and could be happier.
Click to expand...
Whichever/whatever comes on a Raptor, pfffft afiac.
 
Clacombe said:
This is what I’m referring to. There seems to be some small movement where the silver colored threaded piece goes into the bar. Should that be torqued as you suggest? Or are you speaking of something else?
Click to expand...

That would be drag Link. I would just replace the whole thing with new aftermarket. Once the OEM one gets loose it tends to strip the threads, i know at one time the dealer was welding them together for warranty.
 
Having the necessary tools, can I change the drag link myself? Anything special to know. I know I would have to have it realigned after.
 
Are you replacing the drag link? (Bar from pass knuckle to steering box.) Or Tie rod? ( bar between the 2 knuckles.)

If drag link, you WILL need a fork or puller to get it out of the pitman arm. Ask how I know.
But you can center the steeringwheel yourself, no need for alingment.
If it's the Tie Rod bar, then yes, you will need to aling the Toe.

I just replaced both of mine and went with Apex. Their Tie rod ends are replaceable and greasable, unlike the factory one.

Pictures in my build thread.
 
Crusty old shellback said:
Are you replacing the drag link? (Bar from pass knuckle to steering box.) Or Tie rod? ( bar between the 2 knuckles.)

If drag link, you WILL need a fork or puller to get it out of the pitman arm. Ask how I know.
But you can center the steeringwheel yourself, no need for alingment.
If it's the Tie Rod bar, then yes, you will need to aling the Toe.

I just replaced both of mine and went with Apex. Their Tie rod ends are replaceable and greasable, unlike the factory one.

Pictures in my build thread.
Click to expand...
I have had to straighten my steering wheel before so I’m good with that adjustment. It is the one that connects to the pitman arm that I’m referring to.
 
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