Does this meet Thuren specs?

[MegaRed]

Sorry, this all looks like another language to me. Can anyone tell me if it meets Thuren’s specs because that’s what I showed them and asked for. TIA!

 

[Cseybert]

Here’s the specs

 

[johnmyster]

No. They didn't actually change anything.

Tell them to set toe to zero and 3.5 to 4 deg of caster.

 

[MegaRed]

No. They didn't actually change anything.

Tell them to set toe to zero and 3.5 to 4 deg of caster.

Thanks, from what little I know about the numbers, I had a feeling they didn’t do anything.

 

[mbarber84]

That’s not even close to Thuren specs.
Total toe being the most critical.
0.00-0.05 max.

 

[MegaRed]

That’s not even close to Thuren specs.
Total toe being the most critical.
0.00-0.05 max.

Considering where I am at now, what kind of issues would I be seeing? I had new wheels/tires installed at the same time I had the alignment done and it's been just a hair more loose on the road than when stock. I just assumed it was the tires and slight lift of the new springs. I don't have enough miles on the tires to be able to see any wear issues.

 

[johnmyster]

Your caster is only a little low, likely because of the lift. This could have caused the "slightly more loose than stock" impression that you have. 0.5 to 1 degree additional caster will only have a subtle impact on steering. Kinda depends on how much offset you added with rims. You could honestly move the cam bolts one or two marks to the rear yourself and see if you like it with the additional caster. On my truck two marks was two degrees.

That little toe shouldn't impact handling...mainly tire wear. Don seems to assume everyone's front end is tight and that zero toe stays zero when driving, even with big tires and offset rims. Common practice is to allow some toe in with wider wheels/tires, assuming dynamic toe-out occurs when driving. Maybe your shop is looking out for you there but they didn't follow direction, despite being within factory spec.

EDIT: My truck, like yours, has far less cross caster than Don's specs. Yours reads zero. Don't let it worry you and don't let your shop get confused and try to add any.

 

[MegaRed]

Your caster is only a little low, likely because of the lift. 0.5 to 1 degree additional caster will only have a subtle impact on steering. Kinda depends on how much offset you added with rims. You could honestly move the cam bolts one mark to the rear yourself and see if you like it with the additional caster.

That little toe shouldn't impact handling...mainly tire wear. Don seems to assume everyone's front end is tight and that zero toe stays zero when driving, even with big tires and offset rims. Common practice is to allow some toe in with wider wheels/tires, assuming dynamic toe-out occurs when driving. Maybe your shop is looking out for you there but they didn't follow direction, despite being within factory spec.

Thanks for that info. I might move the cam bolts to see how that affects it. I have +18 offset with 295/65/20 so not extreme. I like the shop that did the work but I am pretty sure the alignment guy just assumed that the toe was "close enough" even though step 1 states not to do that.

 

[johnmyster]

Thanks for that info. I might move the cam bolts to see how that affects it. I have +18 offset with 295/65/20 so not extreme. I like the shop that did the work but I am pretty sure the alignment guy just assumed that the toe was "close enough" even though step 1 states not to do that.

That's about 1.5" of offset more than stock, so I'd guess 3.3 deg caster is probably within the realm of acceptable. You might like a little more or a little less. More will help mitigate death wobble if you have any issues. On my truck with stock wheels/tires 6 deg was WAY too much caster and I'm happier since I turned it down to ~4 deg.

The toe is where you didn't get what you paid for. You guy didn't assume anything. It's within the range his computer gave him.