Converting solid rear window to electronic slider?

[Derrick B]

Good morning,
I’ve got a 2019 Big Horn with the solid back window. Has anyone successfully had theirs converted to the ram slider back window? If so are there any how to step by steps available? Dealers won’t do it.
I would think it only involves the new glass, the motor and cabling components , wiring to the overhead console and the dual position switch? Something is haunting me that it may be more integrated than that?

 

[Ol'Blue]

Never done it but was thinking about it and all the points you made were on my mind as well. It's frustrating that they give the power slider away on a tradesman but you need to option package it in on a bighorn.

 

[Derrick B]

Never done it but was thinking about it and all the points you made were on my mind as well. It's frustrating that they give the power slider away on a tradesman but you need to option package it in on a bighorn.

Hi, thank you for the reply. I found out more on this topic this morning. It appears on these later model bighorns that all the wiring goes through the main harness and control unit so it sounds like it’s not a very practical thing and the two overhead consoles are also different. I’m realizing And they are not pre-wired for it apparently so I’m still exploring the idea of putting the factory window in with its mechanics, and then turning around and running it manually with my own switch underneath the dash.

 

[dieselscout80]

I just want to change mine to the heated/defrosting version of the solid window. I have heated mirrors so I have the switch to do the defrosting.

So if you get into your project and you get any information about hooking up the defrost wires please post it.

 

[Derrick B]

Hi, further research. The motor assembly runs with a two wire connector. The switch used to activate it is a simple reverse polarity toggle switch. I can’t see any reason why one couldn’t order the complete glass assembly , install it, get a motor assembly from either a salvage yard OR order new (motor and cable assembly). Then run a pair of wires to the accessory location on the fuse block with an underdash toggle and avoid all the BS computer control / main harness crap.
Please someone tell me why that wouldn’t work?

 

[HarryN]

Hi, further research. The motor assembly runs with a two wire connector. The switch used to activate it is a simple reverse polarity toggle switch. I can’t see any reason why one couldn’t order the complete glass assembly , install it, get a motor assembly from either a salvage yard OR order new (motor and cable assembly). Then run a pair of wires to the accessory location on the fuse block with an underdash toggle and avoid all the BS computer control / main harness crap.
Please someone tell me why that wouldn’t work?

Do you think that there is any kind of safety device built in - such as it stopping if there is something in the way? Or is it more like a motor driven door window that just shuts when the motor is on?

My "guess" is that there is a power wire set ( perhaps 12 volt + with the negative using the body ) to power the motor, and then the 2 wires are for a relay. Again - just a guess - probably similar to a door window operation.

There might be enough of an assembly from a salvage yard to buy it and play with it on the work bench before installing.

 

[johnmyster]

In my truck, the front power window circuit supplies breakered power to the overhead console switch.

I ended up having my leaky slider removed for a solid window. My factory window did not have defrost grid, but the wires were behind the trim, so I was able to add the defrost feature. Plugged it in and it worked.

I say this to say, the wires might already be there. Check the back wall and the overhead console.

 

[dieselscout80]

In my truck, the front power window circuit supplies breakered power to the overhead console switch.

I ended up having my leaky slider removed for a solid window. My factory window did not have defrost grid, but the wires were behind the trim, so I was able to add the defrost feature. Plugged it in and it worked.

I say this to say, the wires might already be there. Check the back wall and the overhead console.

Thanks!!

Were the wires on both sides or just one one side?

 

[johnmyster]

Thanks!!

Were the wires on both sides or just one one side?

My defrost wires were taped to the harness on both sides. Granted, my truck has heated mirrors.

 

[dieselscout80]

My defrost wires were taped to the harness on both sides. Granted, my truck has heated mirrors.

Mine has heated mirrors and front seats too, but also the connectors are there for the rear seat heaters.

 

[Jgouldski]

I have a fairly basic 2019 2500 bighorn. Heated side mirrors, no heated seats, no heated or sliding rear window. I just took my C-pillar trim pieces and cab back trim panel off as I was also interested in this after looking into adding heated rear seats.

Turns out, all the wiring is there. Rear window defogger, slider motor connector, heated rear seats, and even rear footwell lights. Slider motor wiring is listed as "POWER BACKLITE OPEN (+)" and "POWER BACKLITE OPEN (-)", fed from the switch in the overhead console which gets its power from the PDC via pin 1 "FUSED IGNITION RUN/ACCESSORY CONTROL OUTPUT".

 

[Jgouldski]

Hi, further research. The motor assembly runs with a two wire connector. The switch used to activate it is a simple reverse polarity toggle switch. I can’t see any reason why one couldn’t order the complete glass assembly , install it, get a motor assembly from either a salvage yard OR order new (motor and cable assembly). Then run a pair of wires to the accessory location on the fuse block with an underdash toggle and avoid all the BS computer control / main harness crap.
Please someone tell me why that wouldn’t work?

All the wiring is likely already there in your truck. If you take the overhead console down - 2 bolts and 2 clips - you'll likely have 2 connectors if you have a basic overhead console: a smaller 6 pin which handles a bunch of the cab lighting, and a larger 5 pin that is for the sliding rear window. The larger one would be plugged into just a dummy connector. You just need the correct overhead console with the slider toggle and you can plug that one in.

As for the window side, the wiring is also likely already there. The slider motor connector should be just floating behind the cab back trim panel under the middle of the window. And bonus, the rear defogger connectors should be taped to the harnesses behind each C-pillar trim.

 

[HarryN]

All the wiring is likely already there in your truck. If you take the overhead console down - 2 bolts and 2 clips - you'll likely have 2 connectors if you have a basic overhead console: a smaller 6 pin which handles a bunch of the cab lighting, and a larger 5 pin that is for the sliding rear window. The larger one would be plugged into just a dummy connector. You just need the correct overhead console with the slider toggle and you can plug that one in.

As for the window side, the wiring is also likely already there. The slider motor connector should be just floating behind the cab back trim panel under the middle of the window. And bonus, the rear defogger connectors should be taped to the harnesses behind each C-pillar trim.

Thanks - please post any photos of it all as you go if convenient. Harry

 

[Jgouldski]

Thanks - please post any photos of it all as you go if convenient. Harry

Here's what I got. Hope it helps.

 

[RANDAZA1]

Thanks, Going to do this with a salvage yard pull