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Considering a new Ram after having GM all my life. Indecisive on 1500 or 2500 too.

jm888

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Hello. I have owned some form of Chevy SUV since high school in the 90's and currently have a 20 year old Tahoe that I am ready to replace. While an SUV has been great for our family, I am ready to make the switch to a truck because we like to go camping a lot and would like to purchase a travel trailer in the next year or so. Naturally, I am considering a Silverado just because I am used to them and honestly have not had one issue with my Tahoe in 20 years, but want to look at everything out there. I am just casually looking for now as I am in no rush so could prolong this until the end of the year if I need to, but I did go by a couple of lots. I sat in and drove a Ram for the first time the other day and I have to admit, it looks way more modern and luxurious inside than the Silverado. The Silverado is nice but definitely has some resemblance of my 20 year old truck! The Ram felt like I was driving a car too and was amazed at the ride and the turning radius too. Anyways, I will definitely look more into Rams now that I drove one.

The other part of this equation is that when I first considered getting a truck this year, I just figured I would get something a few years old with not a lot of miles for around $30k. I then realized that the used truck inventory is pretty low and prices are up. I also started noticing that the payload capacity on half ton trucks varies but must of the used ones I looked at ranged in that 1500-1600 pound range. I figure once we load our family of 4 and a dog, that could potentially be about 700 pounds leaving only about 800-900 pounds of payload for the tongue weight of a trailer. Add a weight distributing hitch, and you are down to only 700 pounds left. With that math, at the very most I could tow a 7,000 pound trailer if the tongue weight is 10% of that but it would likely be more so I might be safer in the 5,000 pound range. It is just frustrating to see these trucks say they can tow 9,000 or 11,000 pounds or whatever but in reality you are limited by the payload. So all that now has me leaning more toward a 3/4 ton truck just so I don't have to be right on the limits and be careful with everything that gets loaded. The Ram I drove did have a 1,730 pound payload so there is a little more room. I'd like to get a 1500 because there is more selection, cheaper, better mileage, etc. but I am also don't want it to limit me. I think we have to get an idea of a trailer first and I have really only looked online but the biggest ones that may interest us have had a max weight of around 7,000 pounds loaded. So then looking at used 2500s of any brand, it seems like ones that are 4-5 years old have over 100k miles on them and are still $40k so now I started considering buying new. It is tough because I probably won't get a whole lot of use out of this as it will be our secondary vehicle (I have only averaged about 5k per year on the Tahoe over the last several years) so it is hard to justify spending that much, but on the other hand I probably will keep it forever like I did with my current one and keep it garaged so it should last a long time. It is nice knowing what the truck has been through by owning it since new which is probably a reason the Tahoe has been trouble free for so long because I have had it since new and know how I take care of it. I definitely do not need all of the options or leather or the diesel but would not like the bottom of the barrel either (the Bighorn model I drove seemed really nice). I know this is a long ways from the $30k I started from, but I guess if I had to go the new 2500 route, if it got up to $50k max I might go for that, if that is even possible. I don't know, sorry for all the rambling, I guess I am just throwing this out here to let people weigh in or try to set me on a path since I am all over the place, or even to convince me to lean toward Ram now. Thanks for reading!
 
You buy the truck based upon the trailer. I would not go more than 6 or 7k with a 1/2 ton. I have a Ram 2500 MegaCab with the 6.4 Hemi and 4.10 gears. I can tow just over 16k. My 30' trailer tops out about 9k giving me plenty of capacity (you don't want to be driving close to max). The other thing to note is that if you are towing say 12k or under you do not need a diesel. Don't get me wrong, the Cummins is a great engine. And if you tow heavy and often that is the way to go. But why pay 10 to 12k more for something you don't need. Will your truck be a daily driver or will it sit at times. Diesels do not do well sitting or just used around town. Then there is diesel emissions fluid, and the regens. Most guys who get the diesel don't need it. Its just that some saleman told them they did because thats what he has on the lot. Or his buddies told him it not a real truck unless it has a diesel. You will get a lot more truck for your money with a gasser especially at the weight you are towing. I recommend checking out the Ram 2500 MegaCab as it gives you a lot more room. Also I find the Ram Boxes to be great. I store all my hitch stuff, X chocks, etc.. in there and there is still plenty of room in the bed. Lastly, for as much as these trucks cost don't just settle for what's on the lot. Order it the exact way you want. You can still negotiate and you get what ever rebates are in place at time of delivery. Yes it may take two to three months to come in. But let me ask you, are you planning to hold on to this truck for a long time? You can expect to get at least 12 years out of a 3/4 ton. Thats a long time to be driving a compromise. Good luck with what ever you decide!
 
I made my decision based on the simple cost of both pickups. The 2500 gasser costs the same as the 1500. The only thing you lose is about two miles per gallon but you gain more capability.
 
Ram will be the lowest cost of the Big 3 feature to feature. IMO, the current king of gas 2500s is the Ford F-250 7.3L, but you'll likely pay $10k more than the Ram for that feature to feature so it's not worth it.

The GM twins, especially Chevrolet, look visually terrible. Ugliest trucks on the road by a FAR margin. I was GM for life too until Queen Mary allowed that abomination to be made after they already ruined the Camaro and the 1500.

Ram 2500 rides on rear coils and sports the segments best ride and handling, has the most updated and modern features and interior of the Big 3, and is the lowest cost. Hard to beat. Only long term concern may be the MDS system on the 6.4. Every vehicle has some type of potential mechanical negative to it, and that's the gas Rams.
 
Yeah I definitely don't want or need a diesel and this wouldn't be my daily driver either. We have another car that gets used most of the time and this would be the secondary vehicle if we need both at once but like I said, the one it is replacing only averages about 5k miles per year and is used mostly for trips and stuff so this will probably follow suit. If the only thing I am losing is 2 miles per gallon, that is no big deal since it won't get used that much. I also noticed that the dimensions are the same as a 1500 standard box so it won't take up anymore room in my garage. I only drove one 1500 and loved how it drove. Is the 2500 going to be a little stiffer ride or is it pretty nice too? And do you think it is possible to get one of these with a Big Horn trim for around $50k or a little under? I guess I should look at a Tradesman in person to see what it is missing from the Big Horn as I don't need all the gadgets, but if I am going to keep this for 10 years or more, I might want a few upgrades.
 
My diesel 2500 rides no different than my 2016 Silverado 1500 did. Which is an accomplishment considering it has a SFA instead of IFS and is 2,000lbs heavier.

Rams are heavily options based. Don't just look at trim alone. Example, my buddies Tradesman diesel MSRPd at $66,000 with $20k in options. My Big Horn stickered at almost $68k with $23k in options. We both have stuff even the Limited's don't come with standard.

Most important options for your task will be the Trailer Technology group with the 360 cams. Try to find one with the trailer cam and TPMS option too. I also consider 4x4 with an Anti-Spin diff mandatory, but that's just me.

Here are two Phoenix websites that will give you a volume dealer pricing idea. www.billluke.com www.temperam.com Try to get at least 12% off MSRP.
 
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Ram will be the lowest cost of the Big 3 feature to feature. IMO, the current king of gas 2500s is the Ford F-250 7.3L, but you'll likely pay $10k more than the Ram for that feature to feature so it's not worth it.

The GM twins, especially Chevrolet, look visually terrible. Ugliest trucks on the road by a FAR margin. I was GM for life too until Queen Mary allowed that abomination to be made after they already ruined the Camaro and the 1500.

Ram 2500 rides on rear coils and sports the segments best ride and handling, has the most updated and modern features and interior of the Big 3, and is the lowest cost. Hard to beat. Only long term concern may be the MDS system on the 6.4. Every vehicle has some type of potential mechanical negative to it, and that's the gas Rams.

I know what you mean about the Silverado and can't figure if I hate it or not. I am still trying to decide if it is ugly or just kind of bad ass looking. Maybe it is growing on me just because I am used to Chevy but then after looking for awhile, it looks hideous again! Anyways, I was able to custom build a Silverado 2500 with a LT trim for right at $50k with just enough useful features that I think I would want. If I can come up with a Big Horn 2500 for around that price, I will definitely consider it. Maybe I will come up with a build and post it on here later and see what you guys think but in the meantime if you can recommend any features that are definitely useful and should be included, let me know. After seeing a 1500 in person, I definitely am going to want that 8.4 screen. Also, I don't seem to recall an option for a transmission cooler when looking through the builds. Is that just standard on it or what?

I really know nothing about the hemis so don't even know what the MDS is you are talking about. I'll have to check into that. Thanks.
 
My diesel 2500 rides no different than my 2016 Silverado 1500 did. Which is an accomplishment considering it has a SFA instead of IFS and is 2,000lbs heavier.

Rams are heavily options based. Don't just look at trim alone. Example, my buddies Tradesman diesel MSRPd at $66,000 with $20k in options. My Big Horn stickered at almost $70k with $23k in options. We both have stuff even the Limited's don't come with standard.

Most important options for your task will be the Trailer Technology group with the 360 cams. Try to find one with the trailer cam and TPMS option too. I also consider 4x4 with an Anti-Spin diff mandatory, but that's just me.

Here are two Phoenix websites that will give you a volume dealer pricing idea. www.billluke.com www.temperam.com Try to get at least 12% off MSRP.

Looks like you replied with an answer before I even posted the last comment :) I honestly have not bought a new vehicle in over 10 years so I don't know much about it, or volume pricing, or anything like that so I need to do some research. I am up in Washington state too. I see some of the trucks on the lots have sale prices or whatever. Are you saying you can usually negotiate a fair amount off of MSRP on a custom order too? From what I have been reading about the low inventories and chip shortage and stuff, it sounded like pricing wasn't as negotiable right now. Also, does anyone know if buying through Costco is a good deal?
 
I know what you mean about the Silverado and can't figure if I hate it or not. I am still trying to decide if it is ugly or just kind of bad ass looking. Maybe it is growing on me just because I am used to Chevy but then after looking for awhile, it looks hideous again! Anyways, I was able to custom build a Silverado 2500 with a LT trim for right at $50k with just enough useful features that I think I would want. If I can come up with a Big Horn 2500 for around that price, I will definitely consider it. Maybe I will come up with a build and post it on here later and see what you guys think but in the meantime if you can recommend any features that are definitely useful and should be included, let me know. After seeing a 1500 in person, I definitely am going to want that 8.4 screen. Also, I don't seem to recall an option for a transmission cooler when looking through the builds. Is that just standard on it or what?

I really know nothing about the hemis so don't even know what the MDS is you are talking about. I'll have to check into that. Thanks.

You should be coming in a lot lower than $50k with a gas 2500. Here are some 2500 diesel LTs at $55k: (WARNING: don't look at the front ends of these trucks with a full stomach. Their visual presence may cause vomiting)


MDS is a multi-displacement system like GM's AFM. Little pins get actuated and hold the lifters up so the valves don't operate allowing the ECM to shut down fuel and spark to cylinders taking it from 8cyl to 4cyl mode. It's been prone to failure in both brands wiping out the entire valvetrain and engine in some cases when those little pins (that require the thin 20 weight oils to sneak through the passages) don't grab right.

Note that multi-displacement systems are not in the current Ford or Chevy HD line because they have a heavy fleet presence which values durability and simplicity over silly MPG magic tricks.

Cooling is not a concern on any HD anymore. They all have massive cooling systems and in fact use a thermostat in the transmission lines now to try and bring UP the temperature for normal non-loaded use.
 
150/1500 are glorified crossover SUV now. The hauling capacities start now with 250/2500 trucks. high trim levels have less hauling capacities. When I was comparing the Tradesman to the Laramie and the Limited in the 3500 series, I was shocked to find as much as 800-1200 payload differences. You will find difference bin the 250/2500 lines as well, just not as much as the 1 tons.
 
Looks like you replied with an answer before I even posted the last comment :) I honestly have not bought a new vehicle in over 10 years so I don't know much about it, or volume pricing, or anything like that so I need to do some research. I am up in Washington state too. I see some of the trucks on the lots have sale prices or whatever. Are you saying you can usually negotiate a fair amount off of MSRP on a custom order too? From what I have been reading about the low inventories and chip shortage and stuff, it sounded like pricing wasn't as negotiable right now. Also, does anyone know if buying through Costco is a good deal?

Welcome to HDRams!

There's a big pricing thread here (below).

The most you should pay for a factory fresh order is Invoice - the full holdback - $500 or so. No BS "doc" fees or other dealer add-ons. Subtract from that any rebates or incentives.

Costco and other buying services (USAA, PenFed, Sams) are just Truecar incentives that get picked up by dealers and are a way to get an incentive to be applied to the deal in addition to any rebates or factory incentives available at time of delivery. I got $1k from USAA, just be aware that these are all marketing pushes through Truecar and you'll get barraged with dealer calls/emails and forever annoyed with even more "new car warranty" spam calls than you get now. There's also an Allstate bonus drive rebate program you might be able to get an after the sale $250-$500 check if it's still running.

Best to continue those conversations in the MSRP thread.

 
Welcome to HDRams!

There's a big pricing thread here (below).

The most you should pay for a factory fresh order is Invoice - the full holdback - $500 or so. No BS "doc" fees or other dealer add-ons. Subtract from that any rebates or incentives.

Costco and other buying services (USAA, PenFed, Sams) are just Truecar incentives that get picked up by dealers and are a way to get an incentive to be applied to the deal in addition to any rebates or factory incentives available at time of delivery. I got $1k from USAA, just be aware that these are all marketing pushes through Truecar and you'll get barraged with dealer calls/emails and forever annoyed with even more "new car warranty" spam calls than you get now. There's also an Allstate bonus drive rebate program you might be able to get an after the sale $250-$500 check if it's still running.

Best to continue those conversations in the MSRP thread.


Hey, thank you for that. I am very new to this and will definitely check out the thread or see how the pricing works and see where to find the invoice price, etc. I just casually played around with a build of 2500 Bighorn Ram gasser because there don't seem to be many in stock and came up with an MSRP in the low $50k's. I have no idea what invoice price would be so I will look around and learn how to figure that out, but I would imagine it would be a few thousand less than that hopefully bringing it under $50k. So do you pretty much just come up with a build and then ask several dealers what their best price is or do you just have to make offers? Oh sorry...there I go asking more questions before researching. That stuff is probably all in the forum so I better go read it later when I have some time. Thank you for the advice.
 
Looks like you replied with an answer before I even posted the last comment :) I honestly have not bought a new vehicle in over 10 years so I don't know much about it, or volume pricing, or anything like that so I need to do some research. I am up in Washington state too. I see some of the trucks on the lots have sale prices or whatever. Are you saying you can usually negotiate a fair amount off of MSRP on a custom order too? From what I have been reading about the low inventories and chip shortage and stuff, it sounded like pricing wasn't as negotiable right now. Also, does anyone know if buying through Costco is a good deal?
If $50k is the range you're looking at for a Hemi truck I think you should be able to find a good one. I'm also in Washington State and there is quite the difference among dealers. The truck I bought had been originally delivered to a different dealer in Snohomish county and had a $6,000 second sticker markup over what my dealer was asking. I paid quite a bit less than than sticker price. Check out edmunds.com and price one the way you want it and see what they recommend paying. I've usually been able to get the recommended pricing, or at least close. If you'd like specific info on dealer etc, send me a pm, happy to share specifics
 
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