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Cold air intake throws check engine light

I'd suggest going back to the stock intake.

As has been said many time on here, the stock air intake and filter can flow more air than the engine can consume without modification.
I am thinking that’s what I will do.
Now, should I hang on to the CAI, in case I start adding mods?
Thanks for the straightforward reply.
 
I bought and installed a S and B cold air intake for around month. Jan-Feb
8000 miles on my 2023 Big horn when I installed it, I looked at my turbo fins as I was installing the S and B and there was little to no discoloring or wear. After a month started having my DPF build up more, hesitated on take off one morning. A few days later looked inside the see thru cover and it was caked in dust. Took the tube off and there was dust inside. Took the tube off and the turbo had noticeable wear after just around 30 days. When I installed it, my turbo fins did not look like that. I Immediately put my stock intake back on and sold the relatively new S and B intake for $200 on Facebook marketplace
Lesson learned as there were countless members on here warning us all the time this subject is brought up to just stay stock. That turbo spools so fast and the dust that gets by the cleanable filter just pulverizes onto those blades and eats up those blades up fast. I was surprised in that little time period how
Much different the blades looked. Not worth it. Stick to stock and listen to these people when they say don’t do it !
 
I bought and installed a S and B cold air intake for around month. Jan-Feb
8000 miles on my 2023 Big horn when I installed it, I looked at my turbo fins as I was installing the S and B and there was little to no discoloring or wear. After a month started having my DPF build up more, hesitated on take off one morning. A few days later looked inside the see thru cover and it was caked in dust. Took the tube off and there was dust inside. Took the tube off and the turbo had noticeable wear after just around 30 days. When I installed it, my turbo fins did not look like that. I Immediately put my stock intake back on and sold the relatively new S and B intake for $200 on Facebook marketplace
Lesson learned as there were countless members on here warning us all the time this subject is brought up to just stay stock. That turbo spools so fast and the dust that gets by the cleanable filter just pulverizes onto those blades and eats up those blades up fast. I was surprised in that little time period how
Much different the blades looked. Not worth it. Stick to stock and listen to these people when they say don’t do it !
You gentlemen rock! I appreciate all the intel. I have about 34k miles with this CIA, and it just threw the code as I mentioned about a day after taking off the filter to clean it. I will be taking it off an reinstalling once I get back to my getaway cabin next week! Now I’m def curious to see if I have that build up as well!

It’s forums like these that are so relevant and help non gear heads like myself!
 
Hey guys hoping to find a little help. I have a 5th gen 2500 with the Cummins engine and I recently installed a sinister diesel cold air intake. Very simple install and doesn’t take much to do. The new setup makes the turbo sound amazing but after driving around town for about 30 minutes I had the check engine light come up. I looked up the codes and I get P0402 and P226C. Both codes are air flow related and I am assuming it has to do with one of the two mass airflow sensors on the intake. I’ve tried disconnecting the batteries to reset everything but the light comes right back after 30 minutes of driving around. I’ve tried seeing if I can find someone with a similar problem but everyone seems to be able to install it with no issues on a stock truck. My truck is completely stock besides the intake. Any help would be great
Ive got a 2024 Ram 2500 with the 6.7 Cummins which is all stock except I installed the Banks Ram Air CAI on May 13th and last night, June 9th I was driving in town and my check engine light came on. I also am throwing the P0402 code. Banks is aware of the issue and supposedly working on it. Too much exhaust gas emissions. Sounds like the change on the intake side is causing issues across the board that the ECM doesn't like. Just my 2 cents based on google searches over last 24 hours I have performed and then YouTube videos etc seen as well as recent posts in the usual forums from others. I am taking off my CAI and returning to stock. It's not worth the headache for me to hear my turbo more. Although I also noticed immediate off idle acceleration improvement. Again, Im going back to stock air intake and leaving it alone. I paid too much for the truck to mess it up and I don't need to tune a diesel. I just use it for light hauling and because I wanted the truck for long term ownership.
 
After 30+K miles, I pulled my S&B filter completely off give it a good cleaning and oiling. Generally, I use a small shop vac and get as good of a cleaning as possible. I don’t run in a lot of dust or dirty areas….
Anyway, pulled it off. It was fairly clean for that many miles, did my thorough cleaning let it dry, and then oiled it. Put the filter back on and check engine light came on after about a days worth of driving.
Took it into the dealership, it’s throwing a turbo boost code, which I’m told is affiliated with the cold air intake
Before I took it to the dealership I tinkered with it. Made sure the filter was on good tight. Checked all the connections on the sensors… And still check engine light was on.

Not sure if anyone else has this issue? Or if I should just get a hold of S&B see what they have to say.
My service tech at the dealership said it was pretty common for these particular intakes. He actually said the banks called air intake codes
I just think it’s very odd that over 30,000 miles no codes, I did a cleaning, had run for about a day, and then the CEI showed up.
Should I just go back to the stock intake, or try out the banks?

Are you running plug in or plug out ? Plug out mine is a pig for MPG, DPF soot loads more, and it will through the code. Running my S&B, Plug in, Dry Filter w/Wrap - It rarely throws the code unless I'm loaded in high humidity. I only run a dry wrapped filter to make cleaning up bugs (especially in butterfly season) easier, otherwise I'd run the stock box. 1st butterfly season with my stock box I was picking the mass casualty event out of my filter pleats after a few days with tweezers lol (yea the ram scoop works that well at-least on mine lol). The Banks ALWAYS throws the codes on my truck - Mine is stitting in the storage container for spare parts since one of our other trucks runs the banks just fine (also dry wrapped filters). If you have codes with the S&B you'll for sure have codes with the Banks.

That said the code seems to pop because the calibration doesn't seem to know how to handle the airflow dynamics changing as compared to the OE setup. Datalogging mine as well as the banks truck they actually seem to be running a tad leaner down the hwy and consuming slightly more DEF (Would support the leaner inference). What I don't notice is the truck commanding more EGR as compared to the stock box. IF the OE calibration on these trucks wasn't so sensitive it would be a non issue - Honestly on these modern setups the only way to run an aftermarket intake setup without any chance of codes is to have custom tuning on it, emissions on or weightloss. Excess EGR flow will also cause a leaner than expected condition which is why I suspect it triggers the EGR code. Excess EGR flow would be not so great for the engine for other reasons which is why I suspect it is so sensitive. Mine is most likely to trigger the EVIC alert loaded pulling a hill when its very humid (usually hot) down here in parts of South Texas - When the truck is commanding 0% EGR and making over 20 pounds of boost. If its cooler or dry then it won't pop the code, but when the heat index is 110 w/dewpoint of 75+ it will throw it reliably loaded.

If you're not gonna run the stock box w/correct filter (The wrong Mopar filters can also throw codes and cause DPF loading) then I would always avoid the oiled filters and only run dry filters. Unless you get the oil application just perfect you'll often end up coating your sensors in a fine layer after oil that can throw off your MAF, IAT, and MAP sensors. Even then with dry filters I still clean mine every 2nd - 3rd filter change due to how sensitive these newer trucks are. A can of maf/sensor cleaner is always something you should keep around with these newer vehicles - I also clean the sensor on my wifes ecoboost every few filters changes to keep its hwy MPG up (if I don't clean it I'll see an average drop of .3 - .6 mpg).
 
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