What's new
By:
Ram Heavy Duty Forum

Register a free account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members through your own private inbox!

Boogie bumps for towing

Here's what my truck looks like with about 2,000 lbs in the bed (no 'gimmicks')... Notice it's about 1.5" to the bumpstop, unloaded it's about 4.5"
 

Attachments

  • bumpstop.png
    bumpstop.png
    1.3 MB · Views: 36
  • load.png
    load.png
    2.8 MB · Views: 36
  • level.png
    level.png
    1.9 MB · Views: 36
Last edited:
johanh13 said:
Here's what my truck looks like with about 2,000 lbs in the bed (no 'gimmicks')... Notice it's about 1.5" to the bumpstop, unloaded it's about 4.5"
Click to expand...
Thanks! thats some great visuals. Really paints the picure of 2k in the bed.
 
FWIW

i’ve confirmed with the company that makes boogie bumps that you are able to trim them down just like you are with the sumo springs.

The boogie bumps suggest raising the truck 1/2 inch to install the LCS (load control system) bumps, which are the larger ones. That tells me they are probably in contact with the bottom pad all the time when in use.

In past applications I have been able to shave the sumo springs down a bit to keep 1 inch, to one and 1/2 inch, of space between the bump and it’s pad. Allowing for normal suspension travel with driving before they engage with a load. It is nice to know that if I do the boogies I can shave them a little bit if needed…just to allow a little bit of room for installation purposes only. If I were to use their system that allows you to put them in only when needed I would want them to engage pretty early in the loading process… But I don’t want to have to jack up the truck just to put them in or take them out.

I was able to secure a set of sumo’s at a substantial discount so they are going to be the first thing that I try
 
The small gap on boogie bumps actually makes for a harsher ride than when they contact at a static height.

1/2-1” of compression happens fast and the boogie bumps will have a harsher engagement when that happens, unlike airbags.
 
AH64ID said:
The small gap on boogie bumps actually makes for a harsher ride than when they contact at a static height.

1/2-1” of compression happens fast and the boogie bumps will have a harsher engagement when that happens, unlike airbags.
Click to expand...
I have had a few vehicles with that style of “bump overload”, and I absolutely hated them.

Didn’t work particularly well when loaded, and rode like absolute crap when unloaded.

Airbags are the only option that actually work as intended.
 
Trash Panda said:
I have had a few vehicles with that style of “bump overload”, and I absolutely hated them.

Didn’t work particularly well when loaded, and rode like absolute crap when unloaded.

Airbags are the only option that actually work as intended.
Click to expand...

Exactly. Very common to get something like boogie bumps or Timbren’s and quickly realize the don’t do what you want and install airbags.
 
AH64ID said:
Exactly. Very common to get something like boogie bumps or Timbren’s and quickly realize the don’t do what you want and install airbags.
Click to expand...
Spend the money once, and never worry about out it again. What’s a few hundred bucks difference when we are talking about something this expensive to begin with?

Half measures and shortcuts don’t make any sense, especially on a 70 thousand dollar vehicle.
 
Trash Panda said:
Spend the money once, and never worry about out it again. What’s a few hundred bucks difference when we are talking about something this expensive to begin with?

Half measures and shortcuts don’t make any sense, especially on a 70 thousand dollar vehicle.
Click to expand...
I hear you 100% on this, i’m just a sucker for some trial and error and experimenting

Like I said in an earlier post I ended up getting a set of sumo‘s at a great discount so they are sitting in the garage right now for me to mess with.

Ive started looking more at the bags and what all that consists of. Internal jounce or no? Requires 5psi min or says its fine with 0? On board air or no? Ect. Ect.

Looked into the airlift bags a bit last night and they look promising. Just haven’t watched any videos or anything yet
 
These trucks are heavy enough that five psi will not be noticeable 99.9% of the time.

Onboard air is nice, but not required.

I have had great luck with Firestone bags and would probably use them again.
 
I’ll second the Firestone bags.

Also, onboard air is completely unnecessary, IMO. My M18 inflator fills them up in about a minute for both.
 
I’ve used bicycle pumps for airbags too, even that’s fast.

I end up putting OBA on most my rigs for tire inflating anyways, so filling airbags is easy. I’ve never gone the remote fill option thou.
 
Gren71 said:
I hear you 100% on this, i’m just a sucker for some trial and error and experimenting

Like I said in an earlier post I ended up getting a set of sumo‘s at a great discount so they are sitting in the garage right now for me to mess with.

Ive started looking more at the bags and what all that consists of. Internal jounce or no? Requires 5psi min or says its fine with 0? On board air or no? Ect. Ect.

Looked into the airlift bags a bit last night and they look promising. Just haven’t watched any videos or anything yet
Click to expand...
I run Airlift bags over Daystar cradles on my PW. I carry an ARB dual compressor kit and usually run the bags without valves in the lines. Lines routed into my Ramboxes so moisture/debris stays out. It’s easy enough to screw in a couple valves and inflate when needed. I haven’t noticed any degradation to the bags over the last 3ish years running without valves and the system holds air just fine. The kit I got has the internal bump stops.
 
jetrinka said:
I run Airlift bags over Daystar cradles on my PW. I carry an ARB dual compressor kit and usually run the bags without valves in the lines. Lines routed into my Ramboxes so moisture/debris stays out. It’s easy enough to screw in a couple valves and inflate when needed. I haven’t noticed any degradation to the bags over the last 3ish years running without valves and the system holds air just fine. The kit I got has the internal bump stops.
Click to expand...
With a little enginuity, you can run the schrader valves as your license plate mounting “studs”.

Makes filling a breeze, and it’s super clean too.
 
jetrinka said:
I run Airlift bags over Daystar cradles on my PW. I carry an ARB dual compressor kit and usually run the bags without valves in the lines. Lines routed into my Ramboxes so moisture/debris stays out. It’s easy enough to screw in a couple valves and inflate when needed. I haven’t noticed any degradation to the bags over the last 3ish years running without valves and the system holds air just fine. The kit I got has the internal bump stops.
Click to expand...
Thanks! The airlift bags that replace your bumps or the ones that go inside the springs? And what are the daystar cradles?
 
Trash Panda said:
With a little enginuity, you can run the schrader valves as your license plate mounting “studs”.

Makes filling a breeze, and it’s super clean too.
Click to expand...
I had airlift 1000’s on my gladiator and ran the lines so the fill point was inside my fuel tank fill area. Kept the valve clean and out of the weather at all times.
 
Gren71 said:
I had airlift 1000’s on my gladiator and ran the lines so the fill point was inside my fuel tank fill area. Kept the valve clean and out of the weather at all times.
Click to expand...
That is a very clean setup too.

I wouldn’t worry about keeping the valves out of the weather though. The ones on our wheels seem to do just fine living in the worst conditions possible. Plastic caps are pretty neat like that.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top