Battery Connections

[oscar]

Not sure what the right forum is, I know most of the traffic is here.

Installing a 60A Sterling 12VDC to 12VDC charger to charge a "house bank" while driving. (To power inverter for camper, but that's another story for another thread).

I found a nice fat unused post on the Pos Bus that has the "jumper cable here" connection. That looks good. But looking for a good place for the negative cable.
The battery stud is already quite busy there........ Suggestions?

I can go to the other side.... but that's going to make the cable run less elegant.

I believe the alternator is 180A, so I won't bring the charger on line until the grid heater is done...... Need to heat the batteries above 32ºF first anyways so cabin heat has to come up. (LiFePO4)

 

[rfullen280]

Here's some electrical info... https://www.ramtrucks.com/BodyBuild...jGgHzAHGUTU0WB3rWuqSY7YmQ2vEhuBWBAGmP39EZ2yd the last page says Ground Studs on the chassis are rated at something like 50 Amps.


Of course, it references a document "Ground Locations".... that doesn't exist yet.

Ram Trucks Body Builder Guide - Upfit Your Truck

Ram Trucks Body Builder's Guide has information you need to upfit your truck. Explore the Body Builder Guide for dimensions, electrical & technical guides.

www.ramtrucks.com

 

[oscar]

Those were helpful links.... Reading through them my 60A max draw is not considered a lot. There is info on 300A connections, which they recommend connecting to the block..... Way more than I need. So I went with the passenger side. Added on to existing connections and will wait until the grid heater is done until I bring the B2B charger on line.

 

[rfullen280]

Sweet! Glad it helped. Wonder if you could put some sort of lockout relay on the Grid Heater power stud, that ... maybe waits 60 seconds after the grid heater last cycles on to allow your battery charger to then switch on? So a time delay relay.

https://www.amazon.com/DROK-Automotive-Digital-Electric-Display/dp/B071XNY72Q/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=12+volt+time+delay+relay&qid=1664117672&qu=eyJxc2MiOiI0LjgyIiwicXNhIjoiNC4xMCIsInFzcCI6IjMuNTkifQ%3D%3D&sr=8-6

 

[oscar]

You could. But I am trying to keep this as simple as possible because of cost, and the fact that it all would have to come out if I trade/sell the truck and need it to look original. Then there is my awareness of modern vehicle electronics and the knowledge that if you mess with it, the module in charge may have an aneurism. Something as simple as tying into tail light wiring for a trailer, like we did in the old days with the three wire squeeze blade connectors, is now a no-no, and you have to buy the little box for the workaround. So..... the ONLY place I'm tied into the truck is that ONE cable to the passenger side battery. If the truck starts acting goofy one switch disconnects and the truck is standard. On cold starts I just have to watch the volt meter. When it stops cycling I know the grid heater is done. I need to get the batteries above freezing with cabin heat before I can charge them anyways so yes, it all requires operator participation but that's OK. This system will only have to work hard when pulling/carrying one of the campers.

 

[ARR]

For the ground wire I found an unused bolt hole under the motor mount on the drivers side of the engine block. I'm pretty sure I used an 8mm bolt.