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Aux Switches

That's the wiring kit bundle for all AUX Switch equipped trucks. It's the "external" wiring for connecting stuff to the aux ports, adding pass-thru wiring jumpers in he cab, and the extra pass-thru wiring the 21+ trucks come with. It has nothing to do with the installed AUX PDC.
That's what I always thought.
 
Interesting install video, the relay grounds are discussed about 15:30 in the video,

Also
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I will check it out, but I am getting ground at the relays when activating the aux switches. It's power thay seems to be the issue.
 
The next step is clearly to take the PDC apart and check all the wiring behind it. That may take some time and the weather is not cooperating right now.
 
I did notice that in both of the videos that I watched out of curiosity they both did a lot of wiring to the bottom of the PDC. Good luck I'm glad that my truck has the switches from the factory.
 
I did notice that in both of the videos that I watched out of curiosity they both did a lot of wiring to the bottom of the PDC. Good luck I'm glad that my truck has the switches from the factory.
I bought this truck off the lot and it had everything I wanted but those switches.....and when i found the kit I thought it wouldn't be that bad.......you would think since it's a kit it would be be done on the inside......Depending on the weather I am not sure when I can continue this.........good thing what I want to use them for can wait. Or if I get some good weather on a weekend..........
 
FYI the kit doesn’t include any of the “run only” circuit (F606). No relay, no wiring, no connection to the PDC. That’s one of the big reasons I bought a full left dash harness and built my own kit.

Where do you have the power connection hooked up?
 
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FYI the kit doesn’t include any of the “run only” circuit (F606). No relay, no wiring, no connection to the PDC. That’s one of the big reasons I bought a full left dash harness and built my own kit.

Where do you have the power connection hooked up?
Right now it's the just the main connection to the battery. There are only 2 sets of wires coming out of the PDC--the brown wires that connect to the switches and the big red connection to the battery.
 
Right now it's the just the main connection to the battery. There are only 2 sets of wires coming out of the PDC--the brown wires that connect to the switches and the big red connection to the battery.
From what I can see in the online pics of the kit, it’s like you describe- I only see the 2 cables coming out of the box. One is the bundle of 6 wires that go to the switches, which are the negative circuits that the switches complete on the relay coil circuit when pressed. The other is the main direct battery power cable, which is ultimately the battery positive output for accessories (circled in red in the pic below).
What I don’t see is the small fused battery wire, which is the positive circuit for the relay coil (circuit A998 circled in blue in the pic below).
Without that wire, the switches won’t activate the relay in order to supply power to accessories.
If you set all your switches programmed to battery, and you leave the truck off so you don’t hear any engine noise, can you hear the relays clicking if you have someone activate the switches?
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I found the issue!! I appreciate everyone's help and ideas, but it ended up being the easiest thing. I took things apart tonight and when I opened the side door to access the large battery connection there was NO nut on the stud!! I never opened the door since it all came prewired and assembled so there was no reason to. That stud is loose on the bus bar when there is no nut installed. I did some continuity testing and it is intermittent when the stud wiggles. I installed a nut for the cable, re-installed everything back in the truck and now I have power on both spots on the relays. Testing using the switches was successful to the output wires so all is well.

Once again, many thanks for all the help and for future reference the kit does work right out of the box with no additional wiring provided Mopar assembled everything correctly.
 

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I found the issue!! I appreciate everyone's help and ideas, but it ended up being the easiest thing. I took things apart tonight and when I opened the side door to access the large battery connection there was NO nut on the stud!! I never opened the door since it all came prewired and assembled so there was no reason to. That stud is loose on the bus bar when there is no nut installed. I did some continuity testing and it is intermittent when the stud wiggles. I installed a nut for the cable, re-installed everything back in the truck and now I have power on both spots on the relays. Testing using the switches was successful to the output wires so all is well.

Once again, many thanks for all the help and for future reference the kit does work right out of the box with no additional wiring provided Mopar assembled everything correctly.
Glad you found it!
 
I found the issue!! I appreciate everyone's help and ideas, but it ended up being the easiest thing. I took things apart tonight and when I opened the side door to access the large battery connection there was NO nut on the stud!! I never opened the door since it all came prewired and assembled so there was no reason to. That stud is loose on the bus bar when there is no nut installed. I did some continuity testing and it is intermittent when the stud wiggles. I installed a nut for the cable, re-installed everything back in the truck and now I have power on both spots on the relays. Testing using the switches was successful to the output wires so all is well.

Once again, many thanks for all the help and for future reference the kit does work right out of the box with no additional wiring provided Mopar assembled everything correctly.
So reading thru this entire Aux Switch "saga" am I interpreting correctly that you get a vehicle without the factory installed Aux Switch package (LDL) the will be able to add it later with the Aux Switch adaptor kit from Mopar? I have a new 2025 Ram 3500 Laramie that did not come with the factory installed (LDL) accessory.
 
So reading thru this entire Aux Switch "saga" am I interpreting correctly that you get a vehicle without the factory installed Aux Switch package (LDL) the will be able to add it later with the Aux Switch adaptor kit from Mopar? I have a new 2025 Ram 3500 Laramie that did not come with the factory installed (LDL) accessory.

You won't be able to make any BCM changes to the 25+ trucks unless and until JScan and/or AlfaOBD figure out how to crack the new bus architecture.

I don't know if anyone's been able to get a dealer to add the sales code. They can't just make changes like we can with the others, they have to be able to add a sales code to your specific VIN.
 
I’d assume the old kit isn’t compatible with the new architecture as well.
 
I’d assume the old kit isn’t compatible with the new architecture as well.
Well yea, there's that. One would want to check the PN against VIN.

I believe the new 14" screens also only get a 4 button AUX panel? Or maybe that was just the option that might be available with the trailer steer, honestly can't recall AM. I don't recall that there's been any deep dive on the 25+ Aux options and that should probably go into a new thread.
 
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