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Auto Dim High Beams

louisiana_dog

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So I’ve taken the truck to my mother-in-laws farm for the first time and discovered the auto dim high beams.

My question is has anyone else found that rock/red dirt roads cause reflectivity and the high beams to turn off? I’ve found that a T where a road ends with reflective signage is enough to turn them off. Driving down her driveway I turn the high beams on to give the cattle a heads up and had to turn the feature off for them to work. On the road they work normally and a great feature.
 
I have them and think they work great even with the very bright light bar I installed that only comes on with the high beams.
Sometimes road signs or house yard light in the country at distance reflect enough to cause then to dim
 
I have notice some of what you are referring to, I also noticed that the low beams are bright too!
 
Same issue here. The auto high beams in my Audi function much better.
 
My auto high beams are very sensitive to turn off so they dim for reflective road signs and at other times. They are pretty good overall because I would rather them not blind other drivers.
That said, my low beams are outstanding. So much so that I get bright lights flashed at me often.
 
My auto high beams are very sensitive to turn off so they dim for reflective road signs and at other times. They are pretty good overall because I would rather them not blind other drivers.
That said, my low beams are outstanding. So much so that I get bright lights flashed at me often.

This.

I sometimes wish the auto-high beams could be programmed to auto-flashback... ;)

Then again, for the expense of these trucks, and the Adaptive lighting on the Limited/Longhorn, they should also be auto-leveling and have tunables via AlfaOBD like I can do with my 17 year old A6 with Xenon lights - which now pale in comparison.
 
The auto dimmer is junk to me, way to sensitive. In theory they would be perfect for my driving location as i can go long ways between passing other vehicles and get complacent but just seem anything reflective kicks them down. I did have to put little adjustment into my headlights to get lowbeams right.

Miles how did you wire light bar to function with high beams?
 
I live out in the sticks down many miles of deer,moose and elk infested gravel roads and I am happy with mine.
 
Miles how did you wire light bar to function with high beams?
Real simple, I wired my last truck the same way with and indicator light on the dash. I didn’t use a indicator light this time because I found I don’t need it. Got use to leaving the headlights in auto on position and the aux lights would shut off if high beams are off.
Prior to then my trucks didn’t have auto lights and I killed the batteries a few times when I parked the truck and didn’t realize the aux lights were on.

Run wire connected to left high beam wire at head light to the switch in the truck (I put in an old fashioned style foot floor - high/low beam switch). Then wire from the switch to 30 amp relay post #86.
Wire from relay post #87 to positive power to light bar.
30 amp fused wire from positive battery post to relay post #30.
Ground wire from relay post #85.
Ground wire from negative light bar.

Done, works great with the automatic high beams and I can just push the dimer switch on the floor to turn them off if I want to but don’t.
I mounted it to the floor beside the kick panel just forward/above the floor mat.
Picture of the floor dimer switch.
I only wired two posts because the other one is for low beam that is not being used. (Power from high beam in, power out to relay)
 

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Run wire connected to left high beam wire at head light to the switch in the truck (I put in an old fashioned style foot floor - high/low beam switch). Then wire from the switch to 30 amp relay post #86.

I had forgotten all about the foot switch. I'm not even sure when they disappeared.
 
Real simple, I wired my last truck the same way with and indicator light on the dash. I didn’t use a indicator light this time because I found I don’t need it. Got use to leaving the headlights in auto on position and the aux lights would shut off if high beams are off.
Prior to then my trucks didn’t have auto lights and I killed the batteries a few times when I parked the truck and didn’t realize the aux lights were on.

Run wire connected to left high beam wire at head light to the switch in the truck (I put in an old fashioned style foot floor - high/low beam switch). Then wire from the switch to 30 amp relay post #86.
Wire from relay post #87 to positive power to light bar.
30 amp fused wire from positive battery post to relay post #30.
Ground wire from relay post #85.
Ground wire from negative light bar.

Done, works great with the automatic high beams and I can just push the dimer switch on the floor to turn them off if I want to but don’t.
I mounted it to the floor beside the kick panel just forward/above the floor mat.
Picture of the floor dimer switch.
I only wired two posts because the other one is for low beam that is not being used. (Power from high beam in, power out to relay)
Thats awesome! I was thinking about using a relay powered off aux sw to control power from hibeam to the bar. That way i could run plain highbeams while on highways and max light on backroads. Your foot sw idea has me slightly rethinking. My big concerns 1: any kind of faultys or goofy code issues related to lighting and additional draw, 2: struggling to find a way to mount bar other than expensive baja system, just not much to work with on these front ends. Thanks for ideas!
 
Thats awesome! I was thinking about using a relay powered off aux sw to control power from hibeam to the bar. That way i could run plain highbeams while on highways and max light on backroads. Your foot sw idea has me slightly rethinking. My big concerns 1: any kind of faultys or goofy code issues related to lighting and additional draw, 2: struggling to find a way to mount bar other than expensive baja system, just not much to work with on these front ends. Thanks for ideas!
No codes it works great.

I had some 1/4X1 inch stainless flat bar in the garage. (I didn’t what the brackets to rust)
Drilled holes and put S-bend in them by putting in vice and hitting with a hammer.
Pulled out a tow hook bolt and the re-bolted with the SS flat bar.
See picture (the tie strap is holding the bock heater plug as I repositioned so it is easier to use)
 

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No codes it works great.

I had some 1/4X1 inch stainless flat bar in the garage. (I didn’t what the brackets to rust)
Drilled holes and put S-bend in them by putting in vice and hitting with a hammer.
Pulled out a tow hook bolt and the re-bolted with the SS flat bar.
See picture (the tie strap is holding the bock heater plug as I repositioned so it is easier to use)
Maybe i am looking at picture wrong but wish it was that easy, what year is your truck(no signature truck)? My tow hook are newer straight designed not bolted on face.
 
I really wanted to put a footswitch in my 2007. It became a joke with my wife and friends because every time we went the back roads around our place I would bitch about not having one. The auto-dimming on my 2020 works great! Bright reflective signs don't turn off highs except at a crossroads where the road ends. The only reason I bitch about the footswitch now is to carry on the joke.
 
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