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AlfaOBD DPF regen on 2025+ 3500s

hdVahn

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Good morning,

TL;DR - Does the AlfaOBD/bypass modules work on a 2025+ HD?

Context On Why I Am Asking / Use Case Follows
I think I am in the right place. I didn't immediately see an Emissions specific forum. As a former 2500 Hemi Power Wagon owner, I am about to make my first leap into the Cummins Diesel and move up to a 1-ton 3500 Laramie. Frankly, I am scared to death of the DEF/EGR (etc, etc) considerations. Before I take the plunge into a new, 80K+ truck, I wanted to ask about the AlfaOBD / security bypass / physical SGW bypass others have run on 2024 and early posts.

AI and Google searching tells me, it should work. But, I quote:

For your purposes buying a 2025 or 2026 Ram 3500 HD, the AlfaOBD path is almost certainly clean and straightforward using the same tools that have worked on HD trucks since 2018. I'd still recommend confirming with a quick post on hdrams.com before purchasing the bypass module — but the evidence strongly points in your favor.

So, here I am. I loved my HD Power Wagon and I'd like to stick with Ram as I go diesel, but I also want to put myself in the best possible position to manage the risks.

I believe I need the muscle and engine breaking for very recreational towing a toy hauler.

I have a different daily entirely, so it's going to be very low millage and most of it's 5000 mile a year pulls will barely be 35 minutes one way, sit all day, and come back another 35 miles at 45-55 MPH.

9-12 times a year, it will be 2-3 hour pulls, Usually, it's sitting in the driveway in the desert heat. with the occasional Home Depot run where it certainly won't get up to temp to do passive regen. I am up to speed on the need for higher maintence cycle, not letting DEF sit over, etc., all. I am starting to feel educated, but nothing beats real world experience.

Because I am only using occasionally using this truck as god intended, I really, really want to be sure I am thinking out this decision. I understand you can active a manual regen from the Infotainment system when soot levels are high enough, and perhaps this will be just fine for my use case.

I just don't have any real world experience with Ram HD diesel engines and, when you read up on this, or any of the BIG 3, you would get advice that you should get a gasser because you are not running your diesel engine truck enough for the diesel emission systems to do what they do naturally.

When I try and talk to people pulling heavy with a Godzilla 7.3 engine, I am told that's too heavy (16-17K GVWR) and I need a diesel.

So I am struck right in the middle trying to make a decision one way or the other. I've been through so many 1/2 and 3/4 ton trucks over the years, and I really would like to settle into something over-built for today's need so I stop under-buying what I need tommorow.
 
Last edited:
Good morning,

TL;DR - Does the AlfaOBD/bypass modules work on a 2025+ HD?

Context On Why I Am Asking / Use Case Follows
I think I am in the right place. I didn't immediately see an Emissions specific forum. As a former 2500 Hemi Power Wagon owner, I am about to make my first leap into the Cummins Diesel and move up to a 1-ton 3500 Laramie. Frankly, I am scared to death of the DEF/EGR (etc, etc) considerations. Before I take the plunge into a new, 80K+ truck, I wanted to ask about the AlfaOBD / security bypass / physical SGW bypass others have run on 2024 and early posts.

AI and Google searching tells me, it should work. But, I quote:

For your purposes buying a 2025 or 2026 Ram 3500 HD, the AlfaOBD path is almost certainly clean and straightforward using the same tools that have worked on HD trucks since 2018. I'd still recommend confirming with a quick post on hdrams.com before purchasing the bypass module — but the evidence strongly points in your favor.

Partially correct. Using AlfaOBD on 25+ trucks with the Atlantis architecture requires a supported scantool (xTool A30M is the goto), an AutoAuth subscription, and an OBD splitter cable to connect another OBDII reader to AlfaOBD. the scantool and AutoAuth is used to unlock the gateway instead of a simple cable used for 18-24 trucks. Most changes made to the BCM using AlfaOBD will require a Proxy alignment, which requires a dealer visit or investing ~$2K for a Mopar Diagnostic Pod (MPD) and WiTech subscription. While the basic setup may be able to perform stationary regen, a couple things to consider:
1. The xTool alone may be able to perform a stationary regen
2. It's really not an issue as the 25+ Cummins no longer use in-cylinder fuel injection for regen events, there's a 7th injector in the exhaust system. Consequently, oil fuel dilution isn't a concern on 25+ engines.

There's a long thread on 5thgenrams.com covering using AlfaOBD on 25+ https://5thgenrams.com/community/threads/how-to-use-alfaobd-on-2025.69849/unread

So, here I am. I loved my HD Power Wagon and I'd like to stick with Ram as I go diesel, but I also want to put myself in the best possible position to manage the risks.

I believe I need the muscle and engine breaking for very recreational towing a toy hauler.

I have a different daily entirely, so it's going to be very low millage and most of it's 5000 mile a year pulls will barely be 35 minutes one way, sit all day, and come back another 35 miles at 45-55 MPH.

9-12 times a year, it will be 2-3 hour pulls, Usually, it's sitting in the driveway in the desert heat. with the occasional Home Depot run where it certainly won't get up to temp to do passive regen. I am up to speed on the need for higher maintence cycle, not letting DEF sit over, etc., all. I am starting to feel educated, but nothing beats real world experience.

Because I am only using occasionally using this truck as god intended, I really, really want to be sure I am thinking out this decision. I understand you can active a manual regen from the Infotainment system when soot levels are high enough, and perhaps this will be just fine for my use case.
This is incorrect. Only Chassis Cab trucks can have a manual regen ordered or enabled by the dealer. A scan tool should be able to do a stationary regen. However, I don't believe it's needed for 25+.

I just don't have any real world experience with Ram HD diesel engines and, when you read up on this, or any of the BIG 3, you would get advice that you should get a gasser because you are not running your diesel engine truck enough for the diesel emission systems to do what they do naturally.

When I try and talk to people pulling heavy with a Godzilla 7.3 engine, I am told that's too heavy (16-17K GVWR) and I need a diesel.

So I am struck right in the middle trying to make a decision one way or the other. I've been through so many 1/2 and 3/4 ton trucks over the years, and I really would like to settle into something over-built for today's need so I stop under-buying what I need tommorow.
 
Thank you so for taking the time to walk me through some of this.

Activating a manual regen is really all I was thinking about ... and then I went down the rabbit hole of what I would need to do that with the assumption baked in my brain that I must have capability if I want to not hate a truck I otherwise am completely in love with right now.
 
"I just don't have any real world experience with Ram HD diesel engines and, when you read up on this, or any of the BIG 3, you would get advice that you should get a gasser because you are not running your diesel engine truck enough for the diesel emission systems to do what they do naturally."
After driving nothing but Ram Cummins the last 25 years I think you will be ok if you do these basic things: (these are simply my opinion after years of experience-you may disagree):
1. Work it--What do I mean by work it? It is best to pull a few thousand pounds to cause it to fully heat up, but if you will get it out on the interstate and run it 75-80 mph consistently for 30 min to an hour even empty--this REALLY helps.
2. Do NOT let it idle over a few minutes if at all possible.
3. Run exhaust brake at all times.
4. keep short drives to a minimum---I have noticed it typically takes around 4-5 miles for temp to reach 199-201 degrees operating temp--you will know thermostat opens when you see temp quickly drop to 190 range. Meaning always try to drive it at least 5 miles at a time---especially if cold outside.
5. Run a good fuel supplement---to help maximize clean burning of fuel and minimize soot build up.
6. Change engine oil frequently--meaning 5000 miles MAX between changes---WHO CARES if you spend an extra $500 a year on oil changes--that is nothing compared to a repair bill! Do oil changes yourself--this decreases the cost and you know it is done right!
 
Thank you very much for taking the time to write that up. Everything you stated seems to echo the research / reading / search results I have.

I quite literally just came back from driving the long bed DRW to see how I felt about the unloaded ride. It wasn’t quite as bad as imagined. It was the first time I ever drove a dually.
 
Thank you very much for taking the time to write that up. Everything you stated seems to echo the research / reading / search results I have.

I quite literally just came back from driving the long bed DRW to see how I felt about the unloaded ride. It wasn’t quite as bad as imagined. It was the first time I ever drove a dually.
I am sure those "hips" felt big, but you will get used to it---I have a 3/4 now but I still like a dually.
Let me clarify a little more on the above:
As far as working the truck--I do NOT mean always "starting off" fast--this is unnecessary wear and tear on drive train and transmission.
I am talking about when you are on a 4-lane driving empty (or pulling a few thousand pounds) and you are coming up on a big hill--stay on it and MAKE it hold the 75-80 MPH up the hill (assuming it is safe)--this is working it correctly. Diesels love heat.
Another point:
IF you do run it hard on the interstate and then get off an exit to a Gas station or rest area--in this case--you DO need to let it idle 2-3 min before turning off the engine. The turbo needs this to cool down--the bearings in the turbo needs oil pumped through them a few minutes---this will extend the life of the turbo...
 
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