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Aftermarket trailer brake controller

AZPIDDLER

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Attempting to install an aftermarket trailer brake controller on my 24 2500, which has the factory controller. The braking system on my boat is not compatible with the factory set up. Having a difficult time figuring out where to plug the square adapter in (see photo). On my last Ram, the plug was tucked up above the gas pedal; no joy on this one. I unplugged the trucks factory controller from a control module under the dash (see attached photo) and plugged that into the aftermarket system. I immediately got a service trailer brakes warning and it disabled my rear close proximity alarm. The dealer was clueless and suggested a system reprogram for $175. I thought I could just go in and delete the error codes but want to ask the masses before proceeding. Looking for assistance on getting the dang thing up and running.
 

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You’ll need to code the brake controller out with AlfaOBD (or potentially JScan, but I’m not sure if it can do that.

Out of curiosity, what kind of brakes does your trailer have that aren’t compatible with the factory brake controller? I’ve never heard of anything like that before.
 
The boat has Hydrastar electric over hydraulic brakes. Thanks for the suggestion
 
I plugged the connection back into truck, got tired of the warning. I'll give the stock set up a go.
 
Yeah, the factory controller should work fine with electric over hydraulic.
 
The boat has Hydrastar electric over hydraulic brakes. Thanks for the suggestion
I have the same system on my boat trailer. Factory brake controller works just fine with my trailer. I have my trailer set up in the Ram as Heavy EOH. Works perfectly. Double check those settings, as it is definitely compatible.
 
This thread helped me. I resently took delivery of a new InTech trailer. I spent the money and ordered it with hydraulic Disc Brakes.. It never donned on me that I have "Electric over Hydraulic" brakes. I have been using the electric light setting with 6.5 on the gain. And it's a little weird. They are super powerful and I am very happy. The Trailer stops better than anything I have ever owned in the past by far. A couple days ago on the way back from Dallas TX I had a bit of a panic stop and it threw my ice chest off the Pass seat into the Dash. Now, you REALLY want to have that car tied down securely and properly. Right now they come on kind of soft in a normal stop and then build progressively from there. And, they are weak stopping from low speed in a parking lot or gas station. I bet the proper setting on the Ram will fix this.

Thank you.
 

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I switched it to LEOH today. I will towing Thursday. That chart looks like it will work for me. Before the change I was LE and it had too little on the bottom and them got REAL strong as pressure on the pedal insreased. Looks like it should be a nice improvment. Too bad because I was getting used to it. Now I will have to relearn my driving style.
 
Attempting to install an aftermarket trailer brake controller on my 24 2500, which has the factory controller. The braking system on my boat is not compatible with the factory set up. Having a difficult time figuring out where to plug the square adapter in (see photo). On my last Ram, the plug was tucked up above the gas pedal; no joy on this one. I unplugged the trucks factory controller from a control module under the dash (see attached photo) and plugged that into the aftermarket system. I immediately got a service trailer brakes warning and it disabled my rear close proximity alarm. The dealer was clueless and suggested a system reprogram for $175. I thought I could just go in and delete the error codes but want to ask the masses before proceeding. Looking for assistance on getting the dang thing up and running.
I am pricing out a EOH system now for my boat trailer with disc brakes. Just checking as I assume you have the correct EOH actuator. One model with lower pressure (1K psi) for drum brakes, the other has higher pressure (1.6kpsi) for discs. From everything I have read the factory brake controller on your truck should work fine as long as you put the proper parameters in for it. Good luck
 
Update from my install. I went with the “Plug and Play” EOH system purchased directly from Hydrastar. Factory brake controller works as shown on the Hydrastar website, CAM module is not needed. I fabricated a box to protect and hide the cables.
My 2022 2500 set to Heavy EOH and brake level turned up to 8 is what works best for me. Trailering aprox 7800lbs, dual axle disc brakes all around. I learned the hard way to turn the brake power setting down to from 8 to 1 when backing the trailer without the boat! The brakes will go into full lock up without the weight of the boat on the trailer when backing down the launch ramp. The trailer will start skidding and hopping when the brake is applied. It was a puzzling situation for a second.
 

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I learned the hard way to turn the brake power setting down to from 8 to 1 when backing the trailer without the boat! The brakes will go into full lock up without the weight of the boat on the trailer when backing down the launch ramp. The trailer will start skidding and hopping when the brake is applied. It was a puzzling situation for a second.
Yes, this is something you learn quickly if you have a boat trailer with EOH. Actually one of the things I liked better about the brake controller in my Nissan Titan XD compared to the one in my Ram. The Nissan controller had a Boost button in addition to the Gain. So, when the trailer was empty, I'd just lower the boost and set the gain the same. I guess the Boost on the Nissan is equivalent to setting Heavy and Light on the Ram. It was just a touch easier to change on the fly with the Nissan. Not really a big deal. As you mentioned, lowering the gain accomplishes the same.
 
Yes, this is something you learn quickly if you have a boat trailer with EOH. Actually one of the things I liked better about the brake controller in my Nissan Titan XD compared to the one in my Ram. The Nissan controller had a Boost button in addition to the Gain. So, when the trailer was empty, I'd just lower the boost and set the gain the same. I guess the Boost on the Nissan is equivalent to setting Heavy and Light on the Ram. It was just a touch easier to change on the fly with the Nissan. Not really a big deal. As you mentioned, lowering the gain accomplishes the same.
I usually disconnect the 7pin when launching and reconnect after loading I have electric drums but they still drag the wheels when pulling the trailer empty
 
I fabricated a box to protect and hide the cables.
Box looks pretty slick. However, just from the pics you posted, you’ll probably want to address water ingress. It appears that the wires are just fed through the holes in the side. A conduit gland at those entry points should help to keep water out. Otherwise, I’d probably only do this for freshwater, drill some holes in the bottom so the box doesn’t fill with water. I had already wired my trailer with a junction box, or I would have probably bought the plug and play version.

Oh, and dielectric grease at the connections will help to ensure that if water does get in, it can’t get to the connections.
 
My buddies said the same thing. I could not find a way to use a water tight penetration for the cables. The connectors are large, well over double the width of the cables. I have never used this type of connector and the special tools required to remove the pins in this connector were about $70 . I have Molex pin removal tools but they do not work on this type of connector. That being said, I have decades ago experience as an electronics and telephone tech in the Coast Guard for five years and then worked as a low-voltage contractor for another five years. That was 40 yrs ago. If you know of a WT cable pass through conduit connector available that will be watertight on a .5” diameter cable with a 1.25” connector attached please let me know. I would be happy to use it. I used black silicone to seal this.
In the five years I’ve owned this boat, the tongue has never came close to becoming submerged while launching. This boat launches and retrieves with the fenders covering the wheels well above the water.
 
You can get huge sets of de-pinning tools on Amazon for a few bucks.
 
If you know of a WT cable pass through conduit connector available that will be watertight on a .5” diameter cable with a 1.25” connector attached please let me know. I would be happy to use it. I used black silicone to seal this.
The black silicone may work. Might just want to check after a heavy rain to make sure you aren't accumulating water.

The big connectors on the plug and play are complicating things a bit, but I'm not sure how the other end is. If there are connectors on both ends, then the silicone is probably the best route. If the other end of the cable is bare, then a watertight gland could be used to seal around the cable. It would at least make in weather resistant, though not dunk proof, but as you stated, not a concern for your trailer.

Something like this is what I was thinking, but it would only work if one end can slip through the gland.
 
Mcmaster sells water resistant cord grips, both single and multi cord.

 
I usually disconnect the 7pin when launching and reconnect after loading I have electric drums but they still drag the wheels when pulling the trailer empty

This.

Disconnect/connect the trailer plug as part of the boat launch or recovery prep.

That said, ours travels behind the RV so generally never plugged into the truck for the days/week we'll spend at a lake.
 
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