AEV Katla Wheels and brake clearance issues

[Crusty old shellback]

Hmm. Maybe that's the issue of why it will not fit.

As far as running balance beads and such, we run a balance liquid/tire sealer in the tires of our offroad race truck. It keeps them balanced and will seal a small puncture.
Truck will do 150 MPH across the open desert, so it works.
As for the goo clogging up the valve stem, I'll shoot a blast of air into the tire before checking pressure or releasing air. This is to clear out the valve stem.
Also I stand the tires up with the valve stem on the bottom and let the sun heat up the tire and the liquid flow out of the valve stem if there is any in there before doing the quick blow of air thru it.

 

[Quick]

Hmm. Maybe that's the issue of why it will not fit.

As far as running balance beads and such, we run a balance liquid/tire sealer in the tires of our offroad race truck. It keeps them balanced and will seal a small puncture.
Truck will do 150 MPH across the open desert, so it works.
As for the goo clogging up the valve stem, I'll shoot a blast of air into the tire before checking pressure or releasing air. This is to clear out the valve stem.
Also I stand the tires up with the valve stem on the bottom and let the sun heat up the tire and the liquid flow out of the valve stem if there is any in there before doing the quick blow of air thru it.

Here is a pic of it (I was so frustrated I went back out and dropped the spare). Anyone else have this? I'm going to post a separate thread about it as well

 

[slvrsix7]

Hmm. Maybe that's the issue of why it will not fit.

As far as running balance beads and such, we run a balance liquid/tire sealer in the tires of our offroad race truck. It keeps them balanced and will seal a small puncture.
Truck will do 150 MPH across the open desert, so it works.
As for the goo clogging up the valve stem, I'll shoot a blast of air into the tire before checking pressure or releasing air. This is to clear out the valve stem.
Also I stand the tires up with the valve stem on the bottom and let the sun heat up the tire and the liquid flow out of the valve stem if there is any in there before doing the quick blow of air thru it.

Good idea to shoot air through it first, then deflate. I will see if that works. I am happy with what they used beside that issue.

 

[Crusty old shellback]

I do the same thing with my tires that have the beads in them. It works with the beads as well. I've gotten a few stuck the the valve stem before. But since shooting air in there first, haven't had an issue.

 

[1redgmc]

Reviving an old thread. I have a Hunter spin balancer and have ready access to both hammer-on and stick-on weights. Despite this, I have been running DynaBeads for over a decade with great success in all of my truck tires (33's and 35's) to include the big NDT tires on my old M35A2 deuce and a half as well as a Yamaha R1 that I had. I have never experienced any issues with the TPMS, valve cores or wear on the inside of the wheels - although you can see where they are ever so slightly abraided from super low speed contact such as when the beads tumble when you first start to roll. This has ZERO effect on the durability of the wheels. In fact, they are super clean on the inside when I break tires down to change. Go to the OEM tire website to determine the weight of the tire you have. THEN go to the DynaBead website and look at the chart to determine how many ounces of beads you need per tire. It's all calculated quite easily. BEWARE of no-name knock offs and stick with the original DynaBeads. The beads are ceramic-like and be sure you get the larger ones that you break down a tire bead to pour the DynaBeads in as that is the absolute best way to install them. The super small beads that you pour in through the valve stem are a PITA and the ones you will need their special valve cores for. No special valve cores are needed for the larger diameter beads. Hope this might help someone having tire / wheel balancing issues.

 

[H3LZSN1P3R]

Reviving an old thread. I have a Hunter spin balancer and have ready access to both hammer-on and stick-on weights. Despite this, I have been running DynaBeads for over a decade with great success in all of my truck tires (33's and 35's) to include the big NDT tires on my old M35A2 deuce and a half as well as a Yamaha R1 that I had. I have never experienced any issues with the TPMS, valve cores or wear on the inside of the wheels - although you can see where they are ever so slightly abraided from super low speed contact such as when the beads tumble when you first start to roll. This has ZERO effect on the durability of the wheels. In fact, they are super clean on the inside when I break tires down to change. Go to the OEM tire website to determine the weight of the tire you have. THEN go to the DynaBead website and look at the chart to determine how many ounces of beads you need per tire. It's all calculated quite easily. BEWARE of no-name knock offs and stick with the original DynaBeads. The beads are ceramic-like and be sure you get the larger ones that you break down a tire bead to pour the DynaBeads in as that is the absolute best way to install them. The super small beads that you pour in through the valve stem are a PITA and the ones you will need their special valve cores for. No special valve cores are needed for the larger diameter beads. Hope this might help someone having tire / wheel balancing issues.

I have used all the brands over the years including running airsoft BBs in my jeep wheels all yield pretty much the same results with no harm to sensors or valve stems heck i had one customer (old guy who had been doing it since before beads came out) that insisted we use -45 windshield washer fluid weighed out it drove great too the trick is having the proper weight thats about it