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Advice for Options on 3500 Order

gorignak

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I currently have a 1991 K2500 that I'm looking to replace and I'm considering a Ram 3500 Tradesman Crew Cab with the 8' bed. I mostly use it for hauling a 7k trailer and hauling various heavy things in the bed, but I want the crew cab since sometimes I want to take my family with me. Since my current truck 30 years old, even the base model of a new truck seems like more than enough. Because of that I'm having a hard time deciding what options are worthwhile. There are two that I definitely want:
  1. Trailer brake controller
  2. 50 gallon tank
Others that I'm considering:
  1. Aux switches
  2. VSIM module
  3. Rear window defroster
Is there anything else I should consider? I haven't ever had a modern pickup, so I'm not sure if there's something I'm really missing out on.
 
..."sometimes I want to take my family with me" haha...funny.
Doesn't read like you will be missing out on much. Personally, I enjoyed my Tradesman and I went to that from a Big Horn at the time. Definitely get the Trailer Brake Controller and 50gal tank (if you are traveling a good distance with it). If you do tow a lot and load it up, you might want to look at the rear air suspension. It's pricey, but works. There are much cheaper after market options you can install yourself. Aux switches will be nice to have if you plan on adding lights and what not to it. I ordered my new truck with the Snow Chief's group just because it has some of the nice features I want, Clearance Lamps, Aux Switches and skid plates. Since you haven't had a new truck in a bit, I think a nice upgrade is the 8.4" Uconnect screen. Comes with apple car play/android auto, Sirius XM (if that's your thing) which is great for pretty much most things you will need off of your smartphone (maps and other apps). No need for OEM navigation. Since you keep a truck for a bit, maybe look at the 5th wheel/gooseneck prep if you decide later to upgrade to a gooseneck for towing. The Tradesman still has a whole list of options. Buckets or bench? Vinyl or cloth seats? Carpet or Vinyl flooring? And more. It's all your preference.
 
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Thanks for the reply. I'm ok with installing aftermarket accessories, so I'm planning to wait on the air suspension to see if I want it later. Having carplay and Android auto does sound really nice. I'm hoping to find 2021 locally that has some options so I can check them out in person.

There are a lot more options than I expected, even on the Tradesman, so I'll have to do some more thinking. I've kind of gotten attached to my manual transmission, but I'm looking forward to something a little nicer :)
 
If you are going diesel stick with the 3.73 gears if you only pulling 7k around mostly if you were pulling 20k around then 4.10s would be appealing, put the towing tech pkg if the trailer is gooseneck makes hooking up much nicer that lands you with the bigger screen also the snow chief pkg is a good add for the aux switches. Also if you have a gooseneck do the GN/ 5th wheel prep its worth every penny
 
The diesel engine block heater option is a scam, the heater is already there installed in place. All you got to do is buy a heater cord from Geno's or another supplier to install yourself. Cost should be under $30 unless prices have jacked up since last year.
 
Last I checked, I think to get the oem trailer brake controller on a 3500, it requires dual wheels. You didn't mention if you were wanting to go SRW or DRW
 
Last I checked, I think to get the oem trailer brake controller on a 3500, it requires dual wheels. You didn't mention if you were wanting to go SRW or DRW
no it does not lol
 
The diesel engine block heater option is a scam, the heater is already there installed in place. All you got to do is buy a heater cord from Geno's or another supplier to install yourself. Cost should be under $30 unless prices have jacked up since last year.
Not worth the hassle
 
@OP ...
Are you considering the Hemi or the Cummins? 4x4 I assume?

What is pushing you to a 3500 vs 2500? If you don’t need the higher gvwr, the 2500 will ride much nicer empty due to the lower gvwr and coil spring rear(vs leaf on the 3500)

Definitely get the aux switches, will make wiring any accessories a breeze, major pain to try to retrofit. Nobody wishes they didn’t get this option, many wish they did get.

Definitely Get the trailer brake controller.

Get the dual alternators, or at least the 220amp single, much cheaper from the factory than to retrofit it...better to have more power than not.

Consider the 5th wheel prep group if you ever might get a gooseneck or 5er. Relatively cheap option that is much more expensive/difficult to do after the fact.

I’m an advocate for Spray in Bedliner, protects the bed, not slippery when wet. You can always do this locally at LineX for about the same cost.

wheelwell liners also pretty inexpensive option and keep the underside of the bed cleaner, especially if you drive in snow and mud. You can get these after the fact but it’s inexpensive option so might as well include them.
 
Last I checked, I think to get the oem trailer brake controller on a 3500, it requires dual wheels. You didn't mention if you were wanting to go SRW or DRW

Build and price ads DRW if you add the brake controller to a 4x4 CCLB Tradesman.

Hmmm.
 
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Here are my choices...

4.10 Axle Ratio ($145) - This was a simple option for me. Much of my time will be spent below highway speeds and a good portion will involve off-road climbs and descents. With the factory tires it seem like 4.10 will be perfect for me although if I decide to switch to 35s or 37s I would re-gear. Over the past several decades I have re-geared several of my vehicles and consider it some of the most valuable money spent. I believe the 4500 and 5500 are available with factory 4.89 gears and I just wish that was an option for the 3500.

Electronic Shift-On-The-Fly Transfer Case ($295) - This was a low cost option that I went back and forth on a number for times. Since the transmission shifting would be done using a rotating electrical knob on the dash I felt it would be balanced and ok to push buttons to do the same with the transfer case. The controls are quite simple and can be fixed quickly and easily in the future if needed. And shifting a transfer case into four-low using a manual lever always seems like I am damaging something no matter how closely I follow the instructions in the owners manual.

Dual Alternators Rated at 380 Amps ($295) - This was another low cost option but instead was a rather simple decision. Since my camper will be using one or two 100 Ah batteries that will occasionally be charged by the vehicle I concluded that I would rather have it and need it as opposed to needing it and not having it. Maybe 380 amps is overkill for my application but a factory installed option for $295 is a very low risk expense in my opinion.

Engine Block Heater ($95) - Another very low cost option that may only be used a few times if ever but if I do need it someday and do not have it I will curse myself for not spending $95 for it. Since I enjoy camping in austere conditions this may be a nice option to have when firing up an engine that has been below freezing for several days. I have not researched this option much bit again, for $95 it was a simple decision.

Snow Chief Group ($555) - This includes a 220-Amp alternator, instrument panel mounted auxiliary switches, clearance lamps, LT275/70R18E OWL on/off road tires, and transfer case skid plate. In my opinion this is one of the best values for the RAM trucks. If you recall earlier where I felt like I was being robbed by Jeep for a $60k vehicle - this was completely the opposite. This is a package where I see logic and value and for $555 it was an easy choice. The larger alternator supports my thoughts as mentioned above the dual alternator discussion. The instrument panel auxiliary switches will support external lights, possible winch operation, etc. The clearance lamps are of little value to me since my camper will have them also. The larger tires and transfer case skid plate will be beneficial for off road excursions. This is a fair deal and if it cost much more I would not have opted for it but I consider it a well though out and logical package for a fair price.

Tradesman Level 1 Equipment Group ($995) - This includes Exterior Mirrors with Supplemental Signals, Exterior Mirrors Courtesy Lamps, Exterior Mirrors with Heating Element, Mirror Running Lights, Power Black Manual Tow Mirrors, Overhead Console, Overhead Cupholder Lamp, Power Windows with Front One-Touch-Down Feature, Remote Keyless-Entry, Speed-Sensitive Power-Locks and Upgraded Door Trim Panel. This was a tough decision since I was primarily interested in the tow mirrors and remote keyless-entry with power windows running a distant third. Could I do without all the other nice features, certainly. Maybe even order the tow mirrors separate but the keyless-entry did not appear to be an easy add-on. After dealing with keys wearing down, locks freezing up and admitting that power windows were not a mature technology that would probably last for a the next decade I decided to spend the extra money. Again, it this would have been over $1k I would not have selected it and been just fine but despite containing a number of options I could do just fine without there were just enough that I was able to select. In my opinion, if this was $695 it would have been an east choice - the current price pushed me right the edge of being able to justify the additional costs.

Granite Crystal Metallic Clear-Coat Exterior Paint ($200) - I had considered other colors but I decided that a subdued color looked best with the black bumper, grill, etc. Brighter colors may not show scratches as much but I will research some of the coatings that may offer additional protections. In the end, I am not that worried about it since it is a truck and I will use it as such. Sure, I am willing to make a reasonable effort to keep it looking good but I am more focused on the mechanical side versus the aesthetics.

Spray-In Bedliner ($565) - This was another option that I could easily had done without but for the price I considered it fair and worth it. The main value to me had everything to do with isolating the camper from the steel and hopefully also providing some additional friction to keep it from moving. My guess is the insulation value of the bedliner is greater when compared to steel and that alone if of some value. My camper will be permanently installed so preventing scratches and damage is not that important although if I decide to remove the camper and sell the vehicle separately some day there is some value in that. My focus is more on selecting options which value me today and not some potential buyer in the future.

Uconnect 4 with 8.4-inch Display ($795) - Another expensive option that I could easily do without but while researching this I came upon so many other owners struggling to upgrade their Uconnect 3 with 5-Inch Display maybe I was missing something. I still retained my manual controls for the heating and ventilation along with the radio and that is the only reason I even began to consider this option. Although I could not readily justify this additional expense I decided to spend the extra money since this would be such an expensive and difficult error to correct in the future. If this was a $495 option I would not have thought twice about it but after much consideration I decided that the few hundred extra was still enough when compared against a large number of owners paying even more to upgrade.

6 Speakers ($100) - This make no sense to me why they would not include six speakers in the original package but maybe RAM are just trying to squeeze a few extra dollars with this option. Again, I rarely even listen to the radio and when I do it is mostly AM stations so I do not require the best of sound reproduction but at $100 what is there to decide. Honestly, if manufacturers steered more away from expensive packages towards low cost options such as this my guess is more options would be sold and owners would be much happier.

Trailer Brake Control ($295) - Do I plan to tow a trailer? Not right now and if I were planning to tow a heavy one with brakes I would have strongly considered the 6.7L I6 Cummins but to have this safety feature available for a reasonable cost. Sign me up. If it was part of some expensive package I would be just fine without it but for the few extra hundred I can justify including it.

There is one option that I did not get that in hind-sight I wish I would have and that would be the Rear Wheelhouse Liners ($195). I purchased the pieces later and installed them but it would have been much easier just to have them installed at the factory. I can't imagine why they are not included in the Snow Chief package but it was really not a big deal.

Click the links in my signature for more information and pictures.
Thanks for this very detailed list. I'll be doing very different things than what you're doing, but it's really nice to see a full build with explanations for all the choices. It's also really nice to see the pictures of your delivered truck. The 8.4 inch display is very tempting after seeing those.

Reading this also makes me think that I'm going to have to talk to a dealer about what's actually available since I can't find some of what you've mentioned in the build and price tool.
 
If you are going diesel stick with the 3.73 gears if you only pulling 7k around mostly if you were pulling 20k around then 4.10s would be appealing, put the towing tech pkg if the trailer is gooseneck makes hooking up much nicer that lands you with the bigger screen also the snow chief pkg is a good add for the aux switches. Also if you have a gooseneck do the GN/ 5th wheel prep its worth every penny
I'm going with the Hemi and I currently don't have a gooseneck, but I might want to tow one in the not too distant future so it sounds like the prep package is worth it.
 
@OP ...
Are you considering the Hemi or the Cummins? 4x4 I assume?

What is pushing you to a 3500 vs 2500? If you don’t need the higher gvwr, the 2500 will ride much nicer empty due to the lower gvwr and coil spring rear(vs leaf on the 3500)

Definitely get the aux switches, will make wiring any accessories a breeze, major pain to try to retrofit. Nobody wishes they didn’t get this option, many wish they did get.

Definitely Get the trailer brake controller.

Get the dual alternators, or at least the 220amp single, much cheaper from the factory than to retrofit it...better to have more power than not.

Consider the 5th wheel prep group if you ever might get a gooseneck or 5er. Relatively cheap option that is much more expensive/difficult to do after the fact.

I’m an advocate for Spray in Bedliner, protects the bed, not slippery when wet. You can always do this locally at LineX for about the same cost.

wheelwell liners also pretty inexpensive option and keep the underside of the bed cleaner, especially if you drive in snow and mud. You can get these after the fact but it’s inexpensive option so might as well include them.
I don't need 4x4 and was considering it, but it wouldn't let me get 4x4 with the trailer brake controller without going DRW and I definitely want SRW.

The reason for the 3500 is basically that it's not much more and the payload is bigger. I don't know that I'll need it, but it seems like cheap insurance. I'm planning to test drive a 3500 before ordering, but maybe I'll try a 2500 as well to compare. It also seems like if I'm getting the 5th wheel prep then I should plan for towing something with a high pin weight, so the 3500 would help there.

I never really thought about not having enough electrical power, but it seems like more alternator power is pretty popular so I'll have to decide if I want to go with the 220 single or the dual.

Before this thread I never considered wheel well liners, but it makes sense. The spray in bedliner is something I want, I just need to see what it would cost to have it done locally.
 
But as we all know build and price is literally useless most of the time
I didn't realize that until I read these replies and saw that some of the options mentioned don't show up. it's pretty disappointing that not only can I not build a 2022 but I can't even really build a 2021.
 
I don't need 4x4 and was considering it, but it wouldn't let me get 4x4 with the trailer brake controller without going DRW and I definitely want SRW.

The reason for the 3500 is basically that it's not much more and the payload is bigger. I don't know that I'll need it, but it seems like cheap insurance. I'm planning to test drive a 3500 before ordering, but maybe I'll try a 2500 as well to compare. It also seems like if I'm getting the 5th wheel prep then I should plan for towing something with a high pin weight, so the 3500 would help there.

I never really thought about not having enough electrical power, but it seems like more alternator power is pretty popular so I'll have to decide if I want to go with the 220 single or the dual.

Before this thread I never considered wheel well liners, but it makes sense. The spray in bedliner is something I want, I just need to see what it would cost to have it done locally.
If you’re getting a 2wd Hemi, I would really consider a 2500 instead. A 2wd Hemi 2500 gets you a payload of about 3500lbs which is substantial.
People run into “not enough payload for their trailer” on 2500s but usually that’s a diesel 4x4 which only has about 2200lbs payload (diesel + 4x4 add about 1300lb with same gvwr).
It looks like The gvwr only goes up by 1000lbs on the Hemi when going from 2500 to 3500 , so your payload would be about 4500lbs; but it doesn’t appear the Max trailer capacity increases by more than a couple hundred pounds (about 17,000lb w/ 4.10s) when going up to a 3500 with this spec (cclb Hemi 2wd)

Also get the 4.10 gears , 3.73 will be fine but 4.10 will give the truck more grunt when loaded heavy, and gives a higher rated towing capacity.
 
If you’re getting a 2wd Hemi, I would really consider a 2500 instead. A 2wd Hemi 2500 gets you a payload of about 3500lbs which is substantial.
People run into “not enough payload for their trailer” on 2500s but usually that’s a diesel 4x4 which only has about 2200lbs payload (diesel + 4x4 add about 1300lb with same gvwr).
It looks like The gvwr only goes up by 1000lbs on the Hemi when going from 2500 to 3500 , so your payload would be about 4500lbs; but it doesn’t appear the Max trailer capacity increases by more than a couple hundred pounds (about 17,000lb w/ 4.10s) when going up to a 3500 with this spec (cclb Hemi 2wd)

Also get the 4.10 gears , 3.73 will be fine but 4.10 will give the truck more grunt when loaded heavy, and gives a higher rated towing capacity.
That's good to know. The 4.10 gears sounds like the way to go and 3500lbs should be plenty of payload.
 
When I built out my tradesman I set out to keep the cost as low as possible but order everything practical. I use my truck every day for work right now and am totally happy with everything I ordered on it.

The "BIG" options I got and am happy I did are:

-Bed utility group, Same cost as getting the liner done afterwards but you also get the LED bed lights plus the fold away corner bed step

-8.4" uconnect, definitely worth it! Android auto is awesome to have and it helps a ton while I'm working the truck/Navigating/Making phone calls

-Blind Spot Monitoring, well not needed it is handy while towing and also nets you the LED taillights and power fold away mirrors on a tradesman

Other than that mine is a pretty basic tradesman with vinyl seats/floor and black bumpers.
 
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