That’s a pretty debatable standpoint.
Track records speak volumes, and from where I stand, I think their track record is lackluster.
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2025+ Fuel Filter Housing Air Issue
- Thread starter mbarber84
- Start date
Track records speak volumes, and from where I stand, I think their track record is lackluster.
NDanecker
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In my opinion, manufacturers weigh the cost of fixing an issue against the potential loss in revenue. Their goal is to turn a profit, which doesn’t always align with doing what’s ethically right. Recalls are typically driven by safety concerns, so unless an issue poses a clear safety risk or pressure comes from NHTSA they’re unlikely to voluntarily issue one. And this isn’t unique to Ram. Ford, GM, and pretty much every manufacturer take a similar approach. No brand is universally better each has its strengths and weaknesses. At the end of the day it comes down to picking your poison. Currently I'm drinking the Ram cocktail.
100%
Ford still using the CP-4 HPFP to this day, despite a significant number of failures.
NDanecker
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Ford CP4 pump and transmission issues are the main reasons I’m walking away. The truck has a lot of great qualities but either of these problems alone can leave you stranded. My first transmission was replaced at 13k miles, and now the second is already showing the same shifting issues just a few hundred miles later. Now at 50k. A TCM update helped somewhat, but the clutch packs were damaged and now that I’m out of warranty they won’t replace it again. The 8-speed transmission and new CP8 pump give me some optimism if they can work through the minor electrical issues, and it feels like they’ve got a solid product while working through the learning curve with the Atlantis architecture, especially since the Ram 1500 went through similar early growing pains and is now a stable platform, so there’s reason to be hopeful.
MacksRam
Member
NDanecker,
Agree...
I think the new 2025/2026 models have a lot of strong points--some of them being: CP8 Inject pump, new ZF 8spd Tranny, New redesigned intake, Cast iron block, "supposing" improved exhaust/regen system, etc. BUT the bad part is these new points have not been proven yet with miles and time. I know people say "never buy the first year of a new model/design"--I get it--I agree, but sometimes it is the lesser of 2 evils.
Every generation of trucks (Ram, Ford, Chevy, etc) has its issues--for example the 2nd Generation Ram had the rock solid 12 valve P7100 Injection pump, BUT you had to deal with the very weak 48RE Tranny (ask me how I know
...)
MacksRam
Member
UPDATE: I just completed my FIRST fuel filter change on the 2025 Ram 2500---100% success--it started IMMEDIATELY/No Check Engine Light/Engine runs very smooth.
Here are the steps i followed:
1. Remove battery cables/high pressure air to blow off any dust on and around fuel canisters
2. Removed 1 canister lid at a time (so no contaminates could fall in one while I was working on the other)--lid was hard to turn with rachet.
3. Removed old filter--see fuel filter 1 picture below. (easy to remove)
4. Installed new filter--filled canister full of fuel using small funnel--see fuel filter 2 below.
5. New O ring on lid and installed
6. Reconnected battery cables
7. I turned ignition to run position 5 or 6 times--I DID NOT TRY TO START IT. (was getting late in evening)
8. I let truck sit overnight (to allow new filters to fully "soak")
9. Did the same process of turning ignition to run only 5-6 times this morning
10. Then put foot on brake--truck started IMMEDIATELY (started the exact same as it always does)
*Maybe this post will help someone*
Here are the steps i followed:
1. Remove battery cables/high pressure air to blow off any dust on and around fuel canisters
2. Removed 1 canister lid at a time (so no contaminates could fall in one while I was working on the other)--lid was hard to turn with rachet.
3. Removed old filter--see fuel filter 1 picture below. (easy to remove)
4. Installed new filter--filled canister full of fuel using small funnel--see fuel filter 2 below.
5. New O ring on lid and installed
6. Reconnected battery cables
7. I turned ignition to run position 5 or 6 times--I DID NOT TRY TO START IT. (was getting late in evening)
8. I let truck sit overnight (to allow new filters to fully "soak")
9. Did the same process of turning ignition to run only 5-6 times this morning
10. Then put foot on brake--truck started IMMEDIATELY (started the exact same as it always does)
*Maybe this post will help someone*
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NDanecker
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Nice. Wonder if removing the fuel pump fuse(s) would be better move as it doesn't reset everything pulling battery terminals. Easier too. Then again - I think pulling power away from pumps is to prevent inadvertently pumping fuel into fuel canister while open or losing prime from pump to canister.
Loved the one can at a time to prevent debri dropping into open can. Excellent tip.
You just saved, or paid yourself, ~$400 by doing it yourself over dealer!
They want the batteries pulled so that the person changing the filters doesn’t inadvertently trigger a fuel priming sequence by opening the driver door. That’s how they’re programmed now. Used to be programmed to prime on pre-start ignition on. Now they do it sooner.Nice. Wonder if removing the fuel pump fuse(s) would be better move as it doesn't reset everything pulling battery terminals. Easier too. Then again - I think pulling power away from pumps is to prevent inadvertently pumping fuel into fuel canister while open or losing prime from pump to canister.
Loved the one can at a time to prevent debri dropping into open can. Excellent tip.
You just saved, or paid yourself, ~$400 by doing it yourself over dealer!
Updated TSB as of 2/19/2026 on this issue. There’s an update available that addresses the longer crank times, as well as a host of other malfunctions / errors. They’re changing the pump prime sequence to run longer / harder in order to help purge the air out.
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NDanecker
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Yes. That is why I said maybe pull fuse instead of battery. Both do the same function.
MacksRam
Member
NDanecker,Nice. Wonder if removing the fuel pump fuse(s) would be better move as it doesn't reset everything pulling battery terminals. Easier too. Then again - I think pulling power away from pumps is to prevent inadvertently pumping fuel into fuel canister while open or losing prime from pump to canister.
Loved the one can at a time to prevent debri dropping into open can. Excellent tip.
You just saved, or paid yourself, ~$400 by doing it yourself over dealer!
1. Remove fuel pump fuse instead of removing all 4 battery cables--Yes--IF I know 100% this will kill any type of fuel pumps (i.e.tank lift pump, etc)--which fuse is it?
2. "pulling power away from pumps is to prevent inadvertently pumping fuel into fuel canister while open or losing prime from pump to canister"---EXACTLY--100%
3. Money saved---Right On!!
($90 from Genos for both filters). BUT here is another point--I ALWAYS carry extra set of fuel filters in truck--IF I happened to ever get bad fuel on a trip--now I know how to change it--a person could do it on the side of the road if you had to...
MacksRam
Member
mbarber,
Excellent! Thank you for posting--we are learning together!
While im sure this will help, this is still a bandaid.
They need to get the redesigned lid / housing out so that it isn’t trapping air at all.
NDanecker
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If the supply and discharge are at the bottom, which I believe is the case, it would require a whole new housing, or a blead screw on top which is a band-aid IMO. Software update is also a band-aid. Just a poorly thought out design. I can't believe this was a Cummins engineer. Me thinks - Ram. LOL
It will be a new lid design with automatic air our purge valves for what I hear…
NDanecker
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I highly doubt that. Creates a failure point and possible fuel spill to atmosphere. We shall see.
CdnHO
Well-Known Member
Probably at the bottom of his engineering class. LOL