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2022 2500 6.4l blows top radiator hose when towing

Heard back from the shop. They are saying there is a crack is between the exhaust port and cooling on the block? So they are recommending a whole new motor. it would could with a 3 year 100k warranty. I am just beside myself right now. Once I have the quote, I'll submit it to the dealership and see where we go from there.
 
Wow. Sorry for the troubles. That’s a pretty rare failure in my opinion. As stated, wondering if it ran hot a time or two. That’s impressive miles on a 2022. My ‘21 is about to roll 40k. Imma shed a tear.


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Heard back from the shop. They are saying there is a crack is between the exhaust port and cooling on the block? So they are recommending a whole new motor. it would could with a 3 year 100k warranty. I am just beside myself right now. Once I have the quote, I'll submit it to the dealership and see where we go from there.

I'm assuming they're saying there is a crack in one of the cylinder heads from an exhaust port into a cooling passage internal to the head?

How did they verify this without a tear down? And how did they verify combustion gasses in the cooling system indicating either a blown head gasket or crack in the block or a head? Did they perform a block test first?

Hemi head gasket failures are extremely rare. A crack into a coolant passage even more-so. Confirmation of a crack certainly requires disassembly of the engine and usually sending the heads to a machine shop for a pressure test.

Anything is possible but man I'd want a better explanation than just "hey it needs a new engine." Sounds very lazy to me....
 
I'm assuming they're saying there is a crack in one of the cylinder heads from an exhaust port into a cooling passage internal to the head?

How did they verify this without a tear down? And how did they verify combustion gasses in the cooling system indicating either a blown head gasket or crack in the block or a head? Did they perform a block test first?

Hemi head gasket failures are extremely rare. A crack into a coolant passage even more-so. Confirmation of a crack certainly requires disassembly of the engine and usually sending the heads to a machine shop for a pressure test.

Anything is possible but man I'd want a better explanation than just "hey it needs a new engine." Sounds very lazy to me....
Great points. The crack in the block comment came from speaking with the Service Tech over the phone so it's a little different than what was written up. Not sure if that's from their own experience or what. Here is what the diagnostics in the quote I received on Saturday had to say: Engine oil appears okay, coolant level in expansion tank is low. Add fluid run vehicle for 5 minutes. Temperature gauge never showed above half. But pressure building in system. Road test vehicle and Use for gas analyzer. Found hydrocarbons climbing above 100 parts per million at idle. Indicating exhaust breach into cooling system. When towing vehicle suspect breach getting worse causing pressure to go above regulated cooling system pressure. Recommend remove cylinder heads and inspect.

Yes you are correct, the heads need to be removed to verify a crack or blown head gasket. I forwarded the quote over to the dealership I purchased the truck from and as I expected they want to conduct their own diagnostics which is fine. Now I just have to schedule time to drive the truck two in a half hour's back to the dealership.
 
Great points. The crack in the block comment came from speaking with the Service Tech over the phone so it's a little different than what was written up. Not sure if that's from their own experience or what. Here is what the diagnostics in the quote I received on Saturday had to say: Engine oil appears okay, coolant level in expansion tank is low. Add fluid run vehicle for 5 minutes. Temperature gauge never showed above half. But pressure building in system. Road test vehicle and Use for gas analyzer. Found hydrocarbons climbing above 100 parts per million at idle. Indicating exhaust breach into cooling system. When towing vehicle suspect breach getting worse causing pressure to go above regulated cooling system pressure. Recommend remove cylinder heads and inspect.

Yes you are correct, the heads need to be removed to verify a crack or blown head gasket. I forwarded the quote over to the dealership I purchased the truck from and as I expected they want to conduct their own diagnostics which is fine. Now I just have to schedule time to drive the truck two in a half hour's back to the dealership.
That makes a little more sense. Certainly combustion gasses straight into the cooling system would cause sudden pressure spikes that the expansion cap couldn’t deal with.

Keep us posted. Thanks for the details.
 
Dropped the truck off at the dealership I purchased from. Waiting for them to conduct their diagnostics and to hear where we go from there.
Oh, I did discover that the truck is not producing any heat. Not sure if it's from the ongoing issue or something else. I did let them know that the heat is not working. It was a cold 2 1/2 hour drive with no heat and an outside temp of 23 degrees F.
 
Dropped the truck off at the dealership I purchased from. Waiting for them to conduct their diagnostics and to hear where we go from there.
Oh, I did discover that the truck is not producing any heat. Not sure if it's from the ongoing issue or something else. I did let them know that the heat is not working. It was a cold 2 1/2 hour drive with no heat and an outside temp of 23 degrees F.
Heater core is usually the highest point in the cooling system and the first to get air bubbles (either from a coolant leak or combustion gases) in them resulting in no or weak heat.

It’s also not unheard of for the Hemi heater core to plug up. I recently had to back flush mine due to weak heat on the drivers side. Flush worked fine.
 
One of the things that I do when looking at vehicles is remove the oil fill cap and look inside for any signs of white residue or wisps. That is a sure sign of coolant getting into the oil.
 
One of the things that I do when looking at vehicles is remove the oil fill cap and look inside for any signs of white residue or wisps. That is a sure sign of coolant getting into the oil.
Sometimes. A lot of people get in trouble thinking some milky oil on the underside of the cap is a head gasket. It’s 99% of the time merely condensation collecting on the underside of the cap causing it. Completely normal and unavoidable.

Some of the 4.0 I6 heads had issues with cracking pretty much under the oil cap resulting in something you could see.

These days though head gaskets rarely blow into oil galleys or the crankcase. Usually it’s right into a combustion chamber resulting in coolant loss and overheating.
 
Agree. I have a turbo Subaru that makes a little crud on the bottom of the oil cap between changes. Condensation.


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Update from the Dealership. They are not seeing exhaust gas in the coolant system. They drove it around and it's not overheating when getting on it.

I explained again that the pressure builds-up and the hose blows off when under load (Such as towing). They said they do have a trailer they haul cars with. I asked them to connect the trailer and add a car or two and get the RPM's up to 4000 and above and see if they experience the same thing I do when towing my 8000 pound TT.

I'll see what they come back with. Oh they did say they are working on a fix for the no heat as only the passenger side heat is working.
 
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