Eatonpcat
Well-Known Member
Truck looks great...$2700.00 is pricey!
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2019 Truck cap/topper/camper shell thread
- Thread starter IronByron
- Start date
Truck looks great...$2700.00 is pricey!
Rockcrawlindude
a rock crawlin’ dude
Thanks sir! Yours does, too. Also, Seems pricey but then a decent tonneau cover starts at a grand. I feel like I’m numb to pricing these days.
Anyone rocking a white (or diff color) HD with a SmartCap EVOc (white).....seems fiberglass canopies has gone $$$ since the last time I bought one and kinda debating the SmartCap EVOc or maybe wait for the sport to become available for the 2019 regular bed.....anyways if someone has pics that be awesome!!!! Love my DIamondback, but need a space for the dog 
Rockcrawlindude
a rock crawlin’ dude
Pics? I think the z is the better looking topper.
Gondul
Prince of Pintops
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The Z is better looking and I had zero issues, and no leaking, with the one I had on my 2005 Dakota.
The MX is more more useful, but damn it leaked like a sieve through that door.... I did a bunch of stuff to mitigate that but it still leaks a little.
Rockcrawlindude
a rock crawlin’ dude
The overlander that I got was the lowest starting price model, so it doesn’t have the pretty frameless windows and hatch. I still think I should’ve gotten better fit and finish even on the base model cap. . I used a rubber mallet to contour the frame because I didn’t like the fit and finish. Imagine a straight piece of metal riveted to a contoured piece of fiberglass. Once I contoured the edges and corners and trimmed off the excess, it cleaned up the look in my opinion. I still need to clean the paint and silicone/caulk (whatever it is) off of the inside of the windows and I’ll have it cleaned up.
the back hatch has the one knob in the middle but it seems to be leak free. The dealer water tested it and it’s been raining for days and we’re dry. I’m happy with the performance so far.
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LateToTheParty
Didn't want to come
I don't have any issues with my MX letting water in while everything is buttoned up, however if I don't plan properly when opening, anything pooled up on the lip at the bottom of the hatch will drip inside once open (but with the trapezoidal door, I expect it).
Rockcrawlindude
a rock crawlin’ dude
Good heads up. Thanks. I’m new to toppers and would probably dump it on myself. Am I the only one who struggles to reach the hatch to close it? Haha. Also finding it awkward to use my bed step to enter now. Not sure where to hold. May create a solt loop grab handle
LateToTheParty
Didn't want to come
I added a loop of paracord to the snugtop on my 4th gen because with the 5.5" lift I could barely snag the hatch without a running jump.
Luckily with the shorter lift this time around, even with the extra height of the MX, I can still reach (granted, I'm 6'4" with ape arms, so it could be an anomaly).
What I do to get into the bed is to grab the corner, just about where the switch to the bed lights is located. Keeps my hand off anything greasy and allows me to avoid the tailgate cable. But a grab handle affixed to the cleat sounds like a good idea.
Gondul
Prince of Pintops
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It lets in water because there is no seal between the plastic cap that goes over the tail gate and the frame, you open the gate and the water just runs under the gap... I put in some RTV and that helped some but then I noticed there is no gasket on the single T handle.
Gondul
Prince of Pintops
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I'm 5'10 and I grab the door along the side where the shock is located... I may use a piece of rope as @LateToTheParty mentioned so I'm not flexing the door too badly.
If I'm using the bed step I grab the corner of the frame, otherwise I just 'jump' onto the tailgate....
LateToTheParty
Didn't want to come
Must be a difference in the plastic caps on the single versus double handled versions. The plastic cap on mine attaches behind the frame, so anything that would try to go between is channeled to the outer edges.
Rockcrawlindude
a rock crawlin’ dude
Good ol information sharing going on right here
Gondul
Prince of Pintops
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Here is a pic of the corner on mine pre modification, I shaped/glued on ABS to cover that radius and put a piece of weather stripping on inside.
Anyway, you can see the plastic cap over the tail gate goes under the frame and is simply attached with rivets on the back side.
Water used to run under that gap and then all over me whenever I opened the gate.
I cut a thin silicone mat to make a gasket for the T handle, but I'm still getting some dripping when I open the door, problem is chasing down where it is leaking from and how is it getting to the T handle in the center.
Anyway, you can see the plastic cap over the tail gate goes under the frame and is simply attached with rivets on the back side.
Water used to run under that gap and then all over me whenever I opened the gate.
I cut a thin silicone mat to make a gasket for the T handle, but I'm still getting some dripping when I open the door, problem is chasing down where it is leaking from and how is it getting to the T handle in the center.
Rockcrawlindude
a rock crawlin’ dude
Sounds Well thought out.
That metal corner of the frame in the bottom right quadrant of the pic was one of the places I contoured with a rubber mallet. I got the frame to match the contour of the topper and I used a razor to trim the little excess rubber. I can’t tell if yours is the same way but mine stuck out and was sharp.
Rockcrawlindude
a rock crawlin’ dude
Follow up as another thread on topper costs prompted me to check in with the dealer I ordered my ARE through. He checked with ARE and they told him that it should ship by July 1st and arrive by at the dealer by mid July. Assuming that holds it will be right about 21 weeks order to delivery. Not happy but that is what ARE is able to do right now.