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“Push to start” screen frozen - 2025 issues

dblackwell

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Anyone ever have the “push to start” screen stay on the dash after the truck is started and while driving?

I noticed my truck do this yesterday and the whole time the blind spot indicators in the mirrors stayed illuminated. I cycled the truck a few times with the same results and the screen and mirror indicators stayed on with the truck off and locked. I unplugged the battery and it reset it. And it fixed that issue, but I got several errors about trailer lights being out (not hooked up to anything), and several other errors, and p2509 showed as a code on my idash. When I was hooking the battery back up, there was spark so I think that may have caused the p2509z. The errors went away and everything is fine for now.

My truck is under warranty (300mi) so I plan on taking it to the dealer but they may not be able to replicate the issue at the time. Just wondering what the cause/fix was if anyone else has experienced this…
 
Sounds like a glitch in the matrix I don’t know if I would bring it to the dealer until it happened again since they will just waste your time if its not actually doing the issue. Also low voltage can cause all kinds of crazy things.
 
Never seen that one… Is this a 25?
Yes a 2025. So I haven’t had that issue anymore after disconnecting the battery so I am assuming that was a glitch. However, I am getting the trailer break disconnected warning occasionally at start up. I’ve never had a trailer connected to the truck yet.. The first time this happened was a couple hours after I washed the truck. The second time was after it had been raining pretty heavily all day. Not sure if that and the other issue is related or not.
 
Sounds like a glitch in the matrix I don’t know if I would bring it to the dealer until it happened again since they will just waste your time if its not actually doing the issue. Also low voltage can cause all kinds of crazy things.
My truck set built for about a month in Mexico and then about another month at the train yard before being shipped. Not sure if it would be the batteries or not since it’s brand new.
 
My truck set built for about a month in Mexico and then about another month at the train yard before being shipped. Not sure if it would be the batteries or not since it’s brand new.
Hard to say but if its not doing it now it is likely a glitch
 
Unfortunately I had the same issue today (25 with 1,400 miles). Froze on that start screen. I was in a rush so drove it anyhow. Mechanically drove fine but had no blinkers, speedometer, blind spot warning, etc.

After sitting off for 15 mins, it was normal at the next start. I now have a check engine. Diagnostic below…
 

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Unfortunately I had the same issue today (25 with 1,400 miles). Froze on that start screen. I was in a rush so drove it anyhow. Mechanically drove fine but had no blinkers, speedometer, blind spot warning, etc.

After sitting off for 15 mins, it was normal at the next start. I now have a check engine. Diagnostic below…
Sounds like it is going to be a common issue they will have to figure out. Id report it to the dealer atleast
 
Unfortunately I had the same issue today (25 with 1,400 miles). Froze on that start screen. I was in a rush so drove it anyhow. Mechanically drove fine but had no blinkers, speedometer, blind spot warning, etc.

After sitting off for 15 mins, it was normal at the next start. I now have a check engine. Diagnostic below…
Mine hasn’t done it since. But I have gotten the trailer brake disconnected error and I’ve noticed sometimes the mileage is flashing…
 
Unfortunately I had the same issue today (25 with 1,400 miles). Froze on that start screen. I was in a rush so drove it anyhow. Mechanically drove fine but had no blinkers, speedometer, blind spot warning, etc.

After sitting off for 15 mins, it was normal at the next start. I now have a check engine. Diagnostic below…
I have a banks idash but it doesn’t see any of these codes that you posted. Maybe the dealer will see them when it goes in.
 
Do you have a check engine light on? I may have triggered it because I drove a few miles in that state.
 
The first response for any weird electrical issues posted in a thread should always be, "Have you seated all the fuses?"
 
The first response for any weird electrical issues posted in a thread should always be, "Have you seated all the fuses?"
I did on mine. One of the first things I did…
 
I found where some 1500s were having these issues and it seems to be related to can bus… I know nothing about what a can bus is really, but I can’t find a definitive answer to if they got their issues fixed.

A can bus is more or less like ethernet cable - but for automotive.

Imagine an office with 500 computers and needing to store data or talk to each other with email. The information is all sent over an ethernet cable and each information "packet" is coded to go to the right place.

Just using this as an imperfect example to make bring across the idea, in 1960 if you wanted to turn on the right turn signal and know for sure that the bulb is not burned out, then it would take dedicated wires from the turn signal, the blinker, a relay, some monitors, and up to 6 wires to pull it off for each turn signal light.

Now, the turn signal and nearby lights are a small computer with a power supply and a network connection and IP adr. You can ( very roughly) imagine a modern car as sending an email to your turn signal to turn it on / off / blink, etc. This is just an analogy, but similar in concept.

The main problems are that old fashion automotive has very robust resistance to temperature, water and RF noise, partly because the chip transistors were larger. Shrinking them is useful, but does not make them more reliable, in fact the opposite. Unfortunately, only Bosh has invested in new capacity in larger transistors, so overall, vehicles are less robust.

The data rates required now are really pushing what it can do, and people are using too small of wires to implement. ( both ethernet and canbus )


Google worked hard to enter into the automotive world, and they don't have a clue about what it takes to be robust and consumer grade at the same time. We are kind of spoiled by just how good can bus and pre-can bus electronics really worked.
 
Here’s a video of what this issue looks like on the dash.

 
Do you have a check engine light on? I may have triggered it because I drove a few miles in that state.
After it was frozen, I disconnected the battery for about 5 mins, when I hooked it back up and fired it up, I got a full range of issues like Trailer brake disconnected, traction control something or other, and a few others. I did have a bit of a spark hooking up the battery and I had the CEL P2509 but the light cleared and everything else went away. I assume the CEL was because of the spark. Now I occasionally get the trailer brake disconnected still (I had gotten it before the screen froze) and something about testing trailer lights…. I’ve never had a trailer hooked up yet…. Yesterday, I noticed that the odometer was flashing…. Then the next startup it had stopped….
I have noticed that when I go into the screen to trailer tow pages, after selecting trailer 1 (default) it says trailer 1 connected at the top right. I’m not sure if it’s doing that because I selected trailer 1 of if it really thinks it is connected. Not sure if it says disconnected ever…
 
Here’s a video of what this issue looks like on the dash.

Have you seen the check trailer brake wiring message? I decided to plug in the camper and saw the parking lights were pulsating on the camper. I decided to take the multimeter and test the plug and sure enough, it was pulsating… not sure if all this is related or not…
 
Have you seen the check trailer brake wiring message? I decided to plug in the camper and saw the parking lights were pulsating on the camper. I decided to take the multimeter and test the plug and sure enough, it was pulsating… not sure if all this is related or not…
No, I haven’t had that one. I towed once and didn’t notice anything unusual (towing or otherwise).
 
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