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My truck has done it twice. I recently took it in to the dealer for other issues but I told about this and they didn’t find anything wrong at the time.

thanks for that info, I would still recommend putting the pressure release breather hole on the 6 o’clock in case water gets in? I agree it should not have any oil out of the pressure release hole.

I’ve always been told to put the weep hole on the 6 o’clock position and never had a problem. Same for water pumps the have the weep hole on the bottom, if it leaks better to catch it early than to run dry? That my thinking.

I just heard back from my local dealer and they said the front cover is leaking. My leak looks exactly like yours. I would recommend you have a good independent shop give you another opinion. I was able to see from the top driver side of the engine the top driver side of the cover was wet around...

I wouldn’t worry about it, it should be what the ECM says. I’m sure it’s some sort of counter for the steps?

My 2023 with 9k miles is going to the dealer next week with the same leak. I’m a technician and from what I can see it’s just the front timing cover 2.5hr of labor of what Alldata calls for. The rear timing cover is what’s a lot more labor. I was thinking of just resealing the front cover but...

Did you end up taking it to a tire shop? I can almost bet you have defective tires or the dealer didn’t do a good job balancing the tires. A good tire store or repair shop with a road force balancer can check the tires and wheels.

Did you ended up taking it to the dealer?

Any updates?

I heard this exact same noise on my 23 two times. It was when cold but only did it for 20-30 seconds, It had 2k miles. It has 5k miles now and never heard it again.

If you drop the pan you minus we’ll replace all the filters. I tell all my techs to always keep filling until it registers on the dipstick. Don’t ever go off the “service spec”.

Did you measure the amount that came out? On a container that has level readings?

Aftermarket ATF+4 will be fine. Don’t sweat it, go to the local parts store and buy another 3qts. Add 1/2 qt and double check the level. Keep adding until it reads correctly. I like to check the transmission level when it’s cold and on the high side of “Cold” if there’s an option. I’d rather...

Keep adding fluid until it registers on the dipstick. If the codes return after the dipstick reads correctly then you need to worry.

I would put a wrench on all the bolts and try to torque by hand, to find out which one is loose. If you get that bolt to 250 and spec is 280 I doubt that it will make that noise.

Interesting, one of my smog techs was telling something about smogging newer diesels. I’ll double check next week but if I’m correct he said that once it failed the smog test you have to drive it 400 (four hundred) miles. After the 400 miles it will pass the smog even if there’s incomplete monitors.

I had 130k on my 07.5. I serviced it at 100k and the fluid was pink and no fine metal in the magnet. I was truly impressed. When I upgraded trucks it was a good and a bad thing. I was upgrading trucks but it had the same transmission, wish it had a 8 speed but the 6 speed was good to me for 130k...

Had a 20 expedition, at 2k they wanted to tear the top of the engine apart and at 3-5k the transmission was having issues. That was a lemon. I talked to a Toyota tech and the new tacomas are having transmission issues under 1k miles and the tundras are eating the from main bearings. That’s what...

My 23 Laramie with a jump seat has the same bin.

I’m in CA and the local CHPs main concern is that you are within driver license weight limits. They check your trailer gross weight and make sure your license is good for it. Don’t get me wrong if I was towing a fifth wheel or something like it all the time I’d recommend at minimum a 1 ton.