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I drive this, and fuel a LOT lol
Go to any good big truck dealer with a code for "def quality" faults, and they'll tell you to get jugs and fill it from that until the fault goes away
I have factory software, as me and my guys run DD16's, I've seen it more than once on the screen.
Without fail...
No problem! I have the paper copy of the instructions also if you need them.
I have found that Ram is ahead of the game on posting upfitter instructions though. Although finding exactly what you need can be tiresome at times lol
Martin
The tube is 11 gauge 1.75" and 1.5" for the steps. Look better with 2" tube being so long, but I don't have a die for the bender in that size.
I dimple died the sheet metal on top of the steps for grip when wet etc
I think they'd look better with some tabs welded on, and aluminum bolted on top...
Been plodding away
Made the main brackets out of 3/8" plate, going to 1/4" which goes to the rivnuts
Longest sliders I've ever made lol
Got the 4 steps for the doors bent up. I'll notch them and tack them up, then make a paid for bed access. Then fully weld and paint
You mean wiring the Aux switches in the dash? Or adding your own switches?
For the factory switches
https://www.ramtrucks.com/BodyBuilder/service/Image?imageId=MtQrP%2FFqLY5r%2Fest8MtGjGgHzAHGUTU0WB3rWuqSY7YmQ2vEhuBWBLaN3ebhoimF%0A
Hey guys
Having the time, materials and tools to make some myself, I'll try to document what takes shape...For better or worse..... The headache rack, electric sign actuators and radio console came out OK for a hack like myself, so why not?
I want some kind of step to get into the 2500 diesel...
It's just hood time is all.
The mig is very forgiving....The tig on aluminum on the other hand is a nightmare at times lol
I have the 230 amp mig with spool gun for aluminum, 200 amp tig, Hypertherm 45xp plasma, and so on.
This is what I'm normally working on, my "daily driver", so bigger...
Here is the headache rack I made. Front bolts go into some stale pocket mounts I made, second and third through the tip rail to flat plate with nuts welded on the bottom side
The overhead sign has two linear actuators to raise and lower. That's the ticket switch in the panel
The console as I call it, is 16 gauge steel.
It's mounted to a 1/8" frame work, which in turn uses the fasteners that used to hold down that stupid little cubby box that was in front of the jump seat. I used some tube I had laying around, to level the mounting surface to the carpet
All the...