Recent content by Crusty old shellback

Concrete highway, I get boat rocking. Dirt road and asphalt, I get rolling in some areas as the road is uneven on the side. Dirt road is washboard.

I have like 25 miles of bad road to get to the freeway. In areas, I get bad side to side body roll on some sections of road. Not necessarily in turns. First thought was Fox shocks were wore out. Replaced with Bilstein and it got a little better. But I also have front to back rocking on the...

So OEM style bushings or Thuren high dollar arms. That's my choices?

I thought it was the opposite. From Thuren "One other aspect Thuren has improved is the ride quality and vertical travel. This is accomplished by removing the OEM arms which use Torsion Bushings, which store energy like a spring. The 8 of these OEM Torsion Bushings take quite a bit of force to...

Not sure about the rebel, but I put 35s on the stock rims on my stock Power Wagon and have had no issues for over 100K miles. I know the PW is lifted about 2 inches from the factory, but people have run 37s on stock rims with minor trimming

I thinking to go with the striker adjustable arms I posted at first. I know CJC said stock or Thuren. But the Thuren bars have poly bushings to allow better travel. Granted the bars are longer and they change geometry. But why would poly bushings in stock length bars not work as well?

Thuren rear Carli front.

Drove the truck to town. Is a little better. Not as much body roll as it is with the fox shocks. So seems it's the rear suspension causing the issues.

So I asked CJC off road about the metalcloak arms since they carry them for other applications. They said OEM or Thuren. That's the only ones they say work.

Man, trying to figure this all out is frustrating. There are so many different manufactures of the control arms with prices all over the map. Metalcloak has a set with their propritoery bushings for $900. The Stryker ones I link $500. Thuren has a set that changes the geometry for $2600. And...

Got some more emails from CJC. They say even if the sway bar bushings are shot, they will still work. Said it's the control arm bushings.

No lift at all. And yes, for today, they sell replacement bushings.

Thinking of possibly trying a set of these. https://strykerordesign.com/products/ram-2500-rear-control-arms Bushings are about $250 for a set of rubber ones. Plus new tools and a bunch of work to replace them New arms have poly bushings and about $500. But easier to just bolt in and no extra...

Can someone reading this please do me a favor. Go to your rear swaybar and push on the end link and see if your bar flexes. Mine bows a little in the middle and the end flexes toward the center of the truck. Thanks.

Just looked under the front end real quick. All seems normal. Drive around the property with the front saw bar disconnected. Flexed the suspension real good over some big dirt mounds. Nothing seemed out of the ordinary.