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Which rear control arm "fix" - Poll

Which 2500 Rear Control Arm Fix would you run ?

  • Thuren 4-link Upgrade Kit

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Metalcloak Rear Control Arms

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Core 4x4

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Total voters
    0
  • Poll closed .

joshuaeb09

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I'm a bit torn on the way I wanna go to replace the rear control arms for a number of reasons so I figured I'd turn to the group to get some input. Right now I'm 60/40 split looking at the Thuren 4-Link kit or the Metalcloak Rear arms. In the past I've used Core 4x4 stuff on these trucks and it works, but it does nothing for NVH other than the benefits of removing the stock bushings. The torsion spring effect of the the OE rear control arms really is the last major "ride quality thing" left to tackle on the truck. Those rear control arms are also the last major suspension component on the truck that are stock or w/stock style bushings ... and you can feel/notice it. I know that going into 2024 I'm probably going to have to take more, longer work trips so tackling that source of negative ride quality will be worth the spend to me. Also our daughter is finally getting old enough that she can do/enjoy more stuff so I'm planning on more family road trips - Anything that reduces NVH and driver fatigue is worth its weight in gold for these trips.


The New Thuren Kit - https://www.thurenfabrication.com/products/2014-2024-ram-2500-rear-4-link-upgrade-kit
  • The Engineer in me loves the geometry correction and the way Thuren dealt with the shudder/hop in soft stuff. I much prefer the idea of getting the 4 link geometry right rather than how Ram dealt with it on Hemi's/PW's with the anti-hop shock as more of a bandaid than a support. Just the simple matter of getting the link bars more seperated will make the whole rear end more stable on-road, off-road, towing, etc. Raising the Instant Center should make the rear end more stable under most driving conditions and really help it to hook up under load - Meaning less traction control lights on the dash for me lol.
  • The added beef to the rear shockmounts is a real positive for me as I also plan to add the front weld in supports from Thuren in the feature. Preventing known weak points is a big thing for me as I do plan on keeping this truck for a while and I do want something I feel just fine jumping in to take the family across the country with a little off-road play along the way and back.
  • The Thuren Bushings are poly so they're not going to be any better than Johnny Joints for NVH IMO. They will at-least remove the torsion bushing bind to allow for the full ride quality potential of the Carli R2 springs and BackCountry Shocks. I also know from experience that Johnny Joints alone help kill hop while alowing for good flex so I imagine it's part of their equation here.
  • If it ended up having some hop in reverse as they mention - I'd likely play with adding the PW anti-hop bracket and the 5100 dampener. I can justify as I'd likely end up doing it for the other options out there and it would be more of a support than a band-aid.
  • It ain't cheap ... That said it looks like a quality setup that's been well designed and tested from what I've seen on social. Having the Thuren rear trackbar I feel like this kit would just be taking that rear axle stability to the next level. Part of me feels I could justfiy part of the spend as "saftey/functionality", but also would enjoy the improved geometry in all forms of driving the truck just like the trackbar.
Metalcloak Set - https://metalcloak.com/ram-2500-rear-control-arm-upgrade-kit.html
  • I've been super impressed with the Duraflex Joints in my Metalcloak Radius arms so far. The way they handle NVH is superb, way better than OEM bushings, yet they can flex out without binding up like a good joint. I know that for empty highway driving and just flexing out these would likely be the best choice. No joke having the two duraflex bushings inbetween my front axle and the frame has removed a ton of NVH on certain types of pavement or very fine gravel roads. These bushings are the chery on-top for very small bump compliance where neither shocks nor tires are going to help you.
  • They don't have any geometry correction and I would likely end up adding the PW Anti-Hop bracket to my Axle with a 5100 Anti Hop dampener. I don't get a lot of hop unless its wet or I'm in fine gravel or sand (not super often), that said I still don't like it. Not having correction is a big negative for Metalcloak here as it's not a full solution.
  • They're a little pricey, but nothing compared to the Thuren Kit. Part of me wonders if I could have my cake and eat it too by getting the Thuren Kit 1st and then measuring to see if I can add the Metalcloak arms to it later on. I think I would really love these for their NVH mitigation, however, a big part of me thinks I'll enjoy the geometry correction of the Thuren kit more than I'd enjoy the NVH mitigation of the Metalcloak bushings if I could only have one. I've had trucks with Core 4x4 arm's on them and you just learn not to run M/Ts and instead stick to tires like KO2's, AT3Ws, AT2/3s, etc.
Core 4x4 Set - https://core4x4.com/product/r-25-2014-rs4/
  • I know these work ... They're the gold standard on 1500 builds to kill rear axle hop as there aren't many options there. I know plenty of folks running them on jeeps, 1500s, and some 4th gen 2500s. I've used them myself.
  • They have some NVH - It's not bad on the highway or at speed, but when I was running Toyo M/Ts on my last truck that had Core 4x4 Arms you could feel the lugs when you where coming to a stop once you got under a certain speed.
  • I would probably run the PW Bracket and 5100 Anti-Hop shock with these due to the lack fo geometry corection. They help remove hop through the removal of the bushings and replacement with joints, but that's not a true fix so a shock would help support them.
  • They don't correct the geometry just like the Metalcloak Setup, but they also add NVH instead of remove it. Unlike the 1500 platform we can simply add the PW anti-hop shock if needed, so we don't need bushings/joints that are super tight for certain types of builds. These things ain't race cars and I want to eliminate NVH where I can since its not a dedicated off road rig.
  • The Thuren Bushings and Johnny Joints are very similar in design so there's nothing special here unlike Metalcloaks joint/bushing design that is great for NVH. I would only get these if I was doing a budget oriented build where I cared more about the benefits and less about the NVH and/or I had a stock 2500 that I wanted to beef up for towing along with a spring from like Super Springs (Not Sumos).
 

silverheep

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I’m looking at the Metalcloak vs the Thuren as well - which direction did you go with this?
 

joshuaeb09

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Pretty certain that I'm going to go with the Thuren + Their new LCS rear bump stop setup. I'm in the middle of of moving, but once I get the house sold they're high up on my list.
 

Ramadog

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Hey guys,

New to the forum. I appreciate all the info @joshuaeb09 especially pertaining to NVH. I bought my 2023 2500 Laramie 4x4 MCSB about 7 months ago. My plans were to keep it stock, but the roads here in Orlando aren't great and I feel every bump/crack and have to come to a crawl going over rail tracks, etc.

I was thinking of getting 35" Michelin LTX Defenders (20" wheels OE wheels) and a suspension setup that gives a leveled look or slightly raised, but a much more comfortable ride. I don't want to do a regular leveling kit as I want to deal with the NVH. Also, I tow a boat (~9k lbs total) so I don't want to sacrifice safety, braking/handling (minor impact expected) and looking for wet traction, hence the LTX Defenders, being in FL and at the boat ramps.

Would love to get your thoughts on where you shop for kits and which brands you'd recommend. Also, does the mega cab sacrifice anything pertaining to suspension options or does it use all the same kits as a CCSB?
 

joshuaeb09

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Hey guys,

New to the forum. I appreciate all the info @joshuaeb09 especially pertaining to NVH. I bought my 2023 2500 Laramie 4x4 MCSB about 7 months ago. My plans were to keep it stock, but the roads here in Orlando aren't great and I feel every bump/crack and have to come to a crawl going over rail tracks, etc.

I was thinking of getting 35" Michelin LTX Defenders (20" wheels OE wheels) and a suspension setup that gives a leveled look or slightly raised, but a much more comfortable ride. I don't want to do a regular leveling kit as I want to deal with the NVH. Also, I tow a boat (~9k lbs total) so I don't want to sacrifice safety, braking/handling (minor impact expected) and looking for wet traction, hence the LTX Defenders, being in FL and at the boat ramps.

Would love to get your thoughts on where you shop for kits and which brands you'd recommend. Also, does the mega cab sacrifice anything pertaining to suspension options or does it use all the same kits as a CCSB?

For the most part setting up a mega is similar to a CCSB, but with extra weight on it. Is the truck factory air or coils ? Gasser or Diesel ? Those two factors will determine alot in the way I personally would setup a truck like I've been doing with my "compromise" build - Keep all my stock capacity while getting some of the charateristics of a PW. The sort of wheeling I do to get places I want to get doesn't require a winch or lockers and I could do it a stock truck with the plastic chin taken off, BUT it's way more comfortable with the family in it getting to a nice spot at the lake with all the changes. I have most of the parts that I used in another threard somewhere in this subforum. I'm also still tweaking the setup as I have to tow more than I did previously so a do it all build is always a moving target of where you want to compromise.

That all said there's also budget and goals. Making some assumtions that its a Diesel, Factory Coil truck and you just want a better on-road ride while being the most cost effective and retaining all stock capcity I'd likely do the following as a starter -
F - Thuren 2" Springs w/5100s w/Trackbar (Get the front 5100 kit)
R - Thuren 5/8" Spacer w/5100s (BIL-24-455) - If you don't want to lift the rear a touch then I would would just do the 1" front coils
F - Thuren Adaptive Rate Swaybar - I ran this on my truck bone stock and it does make a difference.
R - Thuren Trackbar - I noticed the biggest improvement when towing/hauling with this one.

With wheels and tires the absolute best ride would be accomplished with 17s, but they can run tight so 18s are the most common best choice. If running 20s then 35s are going to be the minimum from a small bump compliance standpoint IMO. I myself am going from 36x13R18 to 37x12.50R18 at my next tire change just to get a bit more compliance on farm roads.
Any of the other stuff - Control Arms, Rear Springs, etc is going to incur extra costs quickly. Control arms aren't cheap (Especially for the Front Flexi Metal Cloak setup or Thuren's Rear setup) and when you do rear springs you have to start looking at supplemental load support. The exception to the supplemental load support would be the super springs coil springs ... but trust me it'll ride like a tank empty after that - Those springs are only good for like service trucks that have a ton of static payload on em.
 

Ramadog

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Thanks @joshuaeb09 . Very much appreciated. Yes, it's diesel with factory coil. Correct, my goal is best on road NVH while maintaining towing integrity and improved looks.

After your recommendation I checked out Thuren's site. The reviews on the 5100s seem to be spot on for my goals. Is going for Fox/Kings over 5100s worth it for superior NVH? Any drawbacks going to 2.75" over the 2"? If I did 37s instead of 35s would 2.75 help with rubbing?

Regarding the rear, you're saying if I switch to Thuren springs, the spring rate may be too low to support the added weight of the mega cab and payload? They have a 1" lift soft rate spring, would the 1" lift help to compensate the weight? They also have a dual-rate long travel option they claim rides better than stock. Would their new LCS boogie bumps suffice for supplemental load support for either of these springs?
 

joshuaeb09

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I'll try to keep it brief since each build is also going to be influenced by personal wants/preferences along with needs.
  • All of the Thuren front springs will have the same clearance for 37s as they retain the factory front bump travel - Clearing 37s will come down to wheel/tire combo along with supporting parts like radius arms/swaybar as well as minor trimming in many cases.
  • I would not use any of the Soft/Single Rate Thuren Rear springs and expect to still have a truck. They're great for making empty 2500s ride like a 1500, but they also reduce your payload down to 1500 or less territory. I prefer the Carli R2 springs, but when matched with 2.75" Thuren fronts they still need load support. If using the Thuren springs I would only go with their dual-rate coils and put at-least 5/8" of spacer in if running their 2" Fronts or more of the spacer segments if running the 2.75". Even then you'll want/need load support when loaded up.
  • Shock wise I'll say this - 5100s are the best bang for buck for street use or lite off road duty. My fox 2.0's are already leaking and my next set of shocks will either be custom valved kings or the Carli E-Venture SDI shocks. I've run king 2.5's on other trucks and they really can be worth the money IF you need that much shock, but if you don't they're just for show IMO.
  • The LCS is the next "static" load support I'm willing to try, but if it doesn't keep me from going nose high hitched up then I'm going to bags w/cradles. All of my current parts are in my sig line for a reference build.
  • One of the best things you can do on these trucks for "NVH" is dynamic wheel balancing like Centramatics or Balance Masters - Really helps no matter the suspension setup IF you have difficult to balance rubber.

Thuren Guidance -
 

Ramadog

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@joshuaeb09 Thanks again! You really helped me to lock in on my options. I'm very grateful for the wisdom regarding the rear and the risk of losing capability with the softer springs. I checked out the Carli R2 springs and can see they are able to hold heavier loads. I see you have them as well. The pics on Carli site show the truck still sits pretty well with 1,500lb in the bed. Do you have any mods for load support in the rear? I see you have the Thuren 2.75" in the front. Are you happy with the Carli R2? Do they ride better than stock?
 

joshuaeb09

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@joshuaeb09 Thanks again! You really helped me to lock in on my options. I'm very grateful for the wisdom regarding the rear and the risk of losing capability with the softer springs. I checked out the Carli R2 springs and can see they are able to hold heavier loads. I see you have them as well. The pics on Carli site show the truck still sits pretty well with 1,500lb in the bed. Do you have any mods for load support in the rear? I see you have the Thuren 2.75" in the front. Are you happy with the Carli R2? Do they ride better than stock?
I'm happy with the R2 springs, but I also knew what I was expecting. The R2 springs ride well - much better than stock, but not as good as softer springs like a Carli R1 or Thuren Spring. That said it still rides like an HD truck, just more subdued with more travel. Currently I do have Black Sumo springs in the rear, but with the R2 springs there is quite a bit of gap before they engage. I'd toyed with the idea of using a spacer and making my own version of the LCS, but eh. The more I think about it, the more I'm probably just going to do bags and cradles for when I tow our 312BHOK - It's right at the edge of doorjamb GVWR depending on load, but well within my GCWR and GAWR. Airbags are the correct option here especially considering that I'll lose the torsion spring effect of the stock rear bushings when I swap to the Thuren 4 link.
 
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Ramadog

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Do you have any brands in mind for the airbags? Would you go electric for the air pump or keep it manual?
 

joshuaeb09

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Do you have any brands in mind for the airbags? Would you go electric for the air pump or keep it manual?

CJC has a slick full travel bags setup, but honestly probably just going to keep it simple with Airlift 5000s and Daystar Cradles. Since I already plan to eventually do OBA so I can carry lighter air tools instead of batteries and heavier 18v stuff I'll likely do some sort of digital control eventually, but it might start with with manual inflation since I don't tow the heavy stuff super often.
 

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