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What to watch for on 99 2500 with 180K miles?

VanIsleGuy

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I'm looking at a 1999 2500 SLT with 180k+ miles (300k+ km) This would be purely a tow vehicle for my boat, and is reasonably priced.

Is there anything in particular to watch for on these?
(Assuming good maintenance) are these engines still good to go or is this getting too far up there in mileage?

Thanks

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Fully loaded SLT Laramie 4 door, cruise control, power windows, power locks, keyless entry, sliding back window, box liner, newer tires,
new brakes last year. Engine oil and filter recently replaced. New transmission solenoid, transmission oil and filter. New rear diff fluid.
 

elephantrider

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assuming the maintenance schedule was followed to a tee, continue doing so and r&r parts as needed.

if not, it's gonna need a few things at that mileage.
 

DevilDodge

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What engine? Assuming an automatic?!

180k isnt much at all if the truck was taken care of. I have a 99 V10 with 235k on it and I finally need to replace the clutch...but it has the PA Cancer bad so it is awaiting a father/son rescue project.
 

mcspeed

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Understanding this not a recent post, thought I would still share as others may stumble on this topic.

One known issue is the Dowel pin inside the front gear timing cover. Has been known to back out and if it does can be catastrophic.

KDP ( killer dowel pin) fix is a good idea to avoid major failure. Fairly easy fix…..prolly a two man job. Kit is around $80.

Just did this fix on my nephews 98 cummins 12v (300,000 miles) and the pin had worked it’s way out a bit. May have stayed put another 300,000 or hand grenaded tomorrow. No way to tell but I do know now it will not come out!


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H3LZSN1P3R

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Understanding this not a recent post, thought I would still share as others may stumble on this topic.

One known issue is the Dowel pin inside the front gear timing cover. Has been known to back out and if it does can be catastrophic.

KDP ( killer dowel pin) fix is a good idea to avoid major failure. Fairly easy fix…..prolly a two man job. Kit is around $80.

Just did this fix on my nephews 98 cummins 12v (300,000 miles) and the pin had worked it’s way out a bit. May have stayed put another 300,000 or hand grenaded tomorrow. No way to tell but I do know now it will not come out!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
98.5 and up (24V) had no KDP issue and you dont need to buy a kit on the 12V just take a nice sharp punch and put 2 dimples around the hole so the pin cant come out, the Tab kit is a joke for the price as you can easily make a tab and get a bolt for under 5$
 

mcspeed

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98.5 and up (24V) had no KDP issue and you dont need to buy a kit on the 12V just take a nice sharp punch and put 2 dimples around the hole so the pin cant come out, the Tab kit is a joke for the price as you can easily make a tab and get a bolt for under 5$

It’s easier to buy the kit but you don’t have to. Comes with gasket, extra dowel and seal. They are made for 02 models too.

I prefer to do things the right way….


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H3LZSN1P3R

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It’s easier to buy the kit but you don’t have to. Comes with gasket, extra dowel and seal. They are made for 02 models too.

I prefer to do things the right way….


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They sell the kit for up to 02 because they can make money off the people who don't know the KDP was a 12V thing and just because someone sells a kit for it does not make it the proper way pin punching is technically the proper way look at most firearms, hydraulic cylinders and other high vibration items and you will see most pins are held in in this fashion for backup incase the press fit fails….. look at this Benelli shotgun bolt for example you can see the proper way to do it according to the machinist handbook
 

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GSP7

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Only major things replaced on my 99 , just turned 200 hunert thou mi, Is Injector pump, ECM , Auto trans was rebuilt when I bought the truck at 4 years old.

I put a Fass fuel pump on it also , and a red head steering box and box brace
 

Bigtuna

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Old post but I wanted to contribute.

I’m new to the forum but have owned a second gen for many years.

Aside from the typical mechanical failure possibilities. That get passed on year after year in the forums.

I would upgrade the front end and the steering stabilizer. My 2002 has a spin free kit and warn locking hubs. The stock bearings will break and leave you in a white knuckle situation.

My other suggestion is an upgraded steering stabilizer from a 4th gen. I used MOOG brand component.

This is how they look when they break. Luckily I was driving or towing when it let loose.

E63F25A2-BAAF-4711-858E-24F49539127A.jpeg



These are the 2 true suspension upgrades that need to be accomplished. It’s a big safety concern in my mind.

If your truck is VP44 equipped I would recommend a high quality lift pump. I ran a FP-150 for years and it’s as reliable as when I installed it 12 years ago.
 

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