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Hardaway Performance tuning up to MY24 Ram Cummins 6.7 via HP Tuners

AirRyan

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Hardaway Performance out of the Florida panhandle is able to tune up to MY24 Ram Cummins. It sounds like they use your own original tune file so you don't lose any features like cruise control, etc. that some people have been reporting on other tunes. HP Tuners is the way to go in the tuning world.


 

tchur1

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I thought for a second there they were able to do it without swapping ECMs. Waiting patiently for that day.
 

Riddick

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Great to see multiple companies stepping into the emissions on tuning arena. For anyone in the market with a 22+ truck it looks like you can get everything for about 3200 which is not bad compared to other companies. When Calibrated Power first released 22+ tuning it was 3200 but now its around 4700.

I am a supporter of HP tuners but they do have some bugs to work out with the CM2450 ECM. After doing a little reading on the HP forums the HP tuners software is known to brick your ECM while flashing. PPEI recently pulled HP products off of their site because of this issue. On the flip side if you buy everything through a reputable company they should stand behind their product and get you up and running. Also, for anyone with a 23+ truck they do not currently support SOTF but I have a feeling they will figure this out soon.
 

AirRyan

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I didn't mean to bust Hardaway Performance's balls on YT but I commented on his YT page that if you're going to remove the intake manifold that would be a great time to replace it and get rid of the potential for the grid heater nut falling off and down into your motor and install a better intake manifold minus the grid heater. He got needlessly defensive, I thought.

I don't know how big the market is for paying these sorts of sums of money on top of the PITA that it is to remove the PCM on a Cummins 6.7, but I can't imagine there are a whole lot of folks willing to pay $3k or $4k for minimal gains on top of the PITA it is to remove the ECM, not to mention the fact that you have to do that bypass cable under the dash by the OBD port, as well. I've had a number of my vehicles tuned, even had to pull and send off my ECM on my WK2 Jeep EcoDiesel, but that ECM was tame compared to the level of involvement on this Cummins.

They have come a long way with the L5P tuning on 2019+, I don't think I'd be interested in a tune on the Cummins if I had to swap the ECM. Just not that interested and certainly not at those price points. And that is very interesting on HP Tuners, I certainly would not be interested in bricking my ECM and having a 7,000 pound paperweight in my garage.
 
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tchur1

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I didn't mean to bust Hardaway Performance's balls on YT but I commented on his YT page that if you're going to remove the intake manifold that would be a great time to replace it and get rid of the potential for the grid heater nut falling off and down into your motor and install a better intake manifold minus the grid heater. He got needlessly defensive, I thought.

I don't know how big the market is for paying these sorts of sums of money on top of the PITA that it is to remove the PCM on a Cummins 6.7, but I can't imagine there are a whole lot of folks willing to pay $3k or $4k for minimal gains on top of the PITA it is to remove the ECM, not to mention the fact that you have to do that bypass cable under the dash by the OBD port, as well. I've had a number of my vehicles tuned, even had to pull and send off my ECM on my WK2 Jeep EcoDiesel, but that ECM was tame compared to the level of involvement on this Cummins.

They have come a long way with the L5P tuning on 2019+, I don't think I'd be interested in a tune on the Cummins if I had to swap the ECM. Just not that interested and certainly not at those price points. And that is very interesting on HP Tuners, I certainly would not interested in bricking my ECM and having a 7,000 pound paperweight in my garage.
I share the same thoughts. I would love to tune my truck (emissions on or not) but dont want to deal with swapping ECMs, its just not worth the cost and the headache to me right now.
 

Riddick

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I didn't mean to bust Hardaway Performance's balls on YT but I commented on his YT page that if you're going to remove the intake manifold that would be a great time to replace it and get rid of the potential for the grid heater nut falling off and down into your motor and install a better intake manifold minus the grid heater. He got needlessly defensive, I thought.

I don't know how big the market is for paying these sorts of sums of money on top of the PITA that it is to remove the PCM on a Cummins 6.7, but I can't imagine there are a whole lot of folks willing to pay $3k or $4k for minimal gains on top of the PITA it is to remove the ECM, not to mention the fact that you have to do that bypass cable under the dash by the OBD port, as well. I've had a number of my vehicles tuned, even had to pull and send off my ECM on my WK2 Jeep EcoDiesel, but that ECM was tame compared to the level of involvement on this Cummins. They have come a long way with the L5P tuning on 2019+, I don't think I'd be interested in a tune on the Cummins if I had to swap the ECM. Just not that interested and certainly not at those price points. Certainly not interested in bricking my ECM and having a 7,000 pound paperweight in my garage.

The dreaded grid heater bolt is definitely an issue but its an issue most us wont have to worry about for many years to come. I have only seen this effecting older trucks, if I have my truck in 5 years I will address it then. Unfortunately, removing the stock intake horn is the easy part of removing the OEM grid heater. My concern would be removing the fuel lines and rail, I don't think any of it is to hard but it is time consuming for sure. I went on YT and read your response, Hardaway is very direct but I don't think he was defensive. The Banks intake horn does indeed flow 88% over the stock unit but this is in an open room and not on the engine. Are there gains to be had, I surely hope so but they are minimal in my opinion.

Also, there is no need to remove your intake horn to swap your ECU. Loosen the clamp on your throttle valve and move the charge pipe towards the outside of the truck. There is one plug on the CP3 pump you need to disconnect but you do not need to break open fuel lines. Once you do these 2 things you can snake the ECU from the top fairly easy. The first time I swapped mine I went through the drivers fender area, wheel and wheel liner removed. This gives you the best access to the ECU connectors and the top mounting bolts for the ECU, the bottom 2 bolts can easily be accessed from under the truck. Going through the fender area prolly took me close to 2 hours and I was about 60% recovered from a broken collarbone. The second time I swapped my ECU it took me 30 minutes and I did everything from the top with the exception of the 2 lower ECU bolts. If you are a bigger person going through the top may be harder, I am 5' 11 185 lbs for reference.

Pricing is not cheap but the gains are 100% noticeable, whether or not its worth it is subjective.
 

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