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2016 Ram 3500 Fuel Issues HELP!!

Billywaters795

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Hey guys,

I’ll start this of with, I have very little mechanical knowledge! Which will also have to do with me explaining my issues.

I purchased my truck used with 98,000 miles. I believe I am the second owner. I purchased it because I started a hotshot company and after a fair amount of research, I thought this was the perfect truck.

After I hit about 105,000 miles, I installed a 100gal (used) auxiliary tank. I used a 3/8” fuel line to connect it to a T-joint that I installed between the main fill up line and fuel tank with a built in rollover valve. Basically the same kit from RDS. After using it for a week or so, i was pulling off from a red light and my truck felt like it was loosing throttle power. It would lag then pick back up and would be fine for about 200 miles before my check engine light came on and it was throwing up “Service DEF System, See Dealer.” I had about 18,000lbs behind me and couldn’t hardly get it to exceed 5mph. I pulled over and done a quick research to find out that a clogged fuel filter will cause this. I made it to a auto parts store, purchased a fuel filter and fuel water separator, changed it in the parking lot and after priming it for about 15 minutes, it fired up and the check engine light went off.

Then it happened to me again but this time I had driven for maybe 800 miles. So I repeated the process. Then it happened again, same thing. I realized my aux tank didn’t have a vent on it and i came to the conclusion that it was a pressure issue causing it to not flow correctly. After installing the vent, it happened again. So this time I installed an inline fuel filter, thinking it may have been trash from the tank being used. Then it happened again, by this time I’ve changed out he fuel filter/water separator maybe twice within 10,000 miles. After it kept happening, i would swap out the inline filter instead of the fuel filter and sometimes it would solve the issue sometimes it wouldn’t. Now I did end up putting an electric inline pump on it because i was having feeding issues. That was resolved when I removed the rollover valve because it would get stuck and not allow any fuel to flow.

After installing the inline pump, it was working great. Half the time I wouldn’t even need to cut the pump on unless my fuel gauge would starting moving. Then i got a leak in the tank, took it out and repaired it, installed all new lines and inline filter. It was working fine. It seemed like it would happen when I had about 10-15 gallons remaining in the main tank. Two times it happened, instead of the truck losing power, it would just quit as if it ran out of fuel. The first time that happened, i just primed it a couple of times and it fired up, the second time it happened was when i was pulling in my drive way. I ran up to the fuel station and came back, put 10 gallons in it, primed it and it fired up.

Now up to this moment, its starting to do it when I have full tank. I’ll have cruise control set and when I start up a small incline and the truck downshifts, the check engine light will come on and it feels like I’m losing power. I cut off cruise, lower the rpms until I top the hill and it’ll start driving fine again but today when I was leaving a rest area, I accelerated on level ground and the check engine light came on and starting losing power again. I just changed the fuel filter this past weekend so i know its not clogged up. whenever its done it, I’d run diagnostics on it and it tells me its something with the “Fuel Rail System”.

Since February I’ve put about 52,000 miles on the truck. I average around 68mph and fuel economy is about 9mpg. I’ve had the soot levels checked and they seemed fine (per the mechanic) I’m not rough on the truck at all, I keep normal maintenance on it. I’ll run some hotshot fuel treatment through it but maybe not as often as I should, Clean out the air filter regularly and other than that its a great truck but this fuel issue has me baffled. I’ve been sitting aside deleting it due to this. I planned on deleting the DEF system and installing a FASS Fuel system on it but I don’t want to screw anything up by not having this fixed first.

I’m down to thinking it may be the injectors, maybe the truck is burning fuel faster than its feeding it or its a measuring issue with the fuel pump?

Does anyone have any idea what might be causing this????
 

H3LZSN1P3R

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We need the codes from the check engine light thats a must it sounds like a lift pump issue or you have a bad vent on the truck tank
 

Billywaters795

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We need the codes from the check engine light thats a must it sounds like a lift pump issue or you have a bad vent on the truck tank
Thanks for the response!

Unfortunately I can’t provide the codes right now. I should be home tonight or in the morning, I’ll have the codes pulled then and can post them in here.
 

flan

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Maybe rail pressure sender too. I’ve replaced one of those on a 6.7 2011 model year with less miles than yours. PO087 or PO191 for the rail pressure are the usual codes for that culprit.
 

Billywaters795

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Okay I just had the codes pulled. It is showing P0087. Fuel rail pressure too low.

I’m off this week so it’s the perfect time to get it fixed.
Do you guys recommend going ahead and replacing that rail pressure sensor and the lift pump? I was already determined to just order the FASS system and have it installed this week. I feel like with as much driving that I do and as much fuel that runs through the truck, it may just be a good idea to have it upgraded.
 

H3LZSN1P3R

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Okay I just had the codes pulled. It is showing P0087. Fuel rail pressure too low.

I’m off this week so it’s the perfect time to get it fixed.
Do you guys recommend going ahead and replacing that rail pressure sensor and the lift pump? I was already determined to just order the FASS system and have it installed this week. I feel like with as much driving that I do and as much fuel that runs through the truck, it may just be a good idea to have it upgraded.
Fass is junk no need for aftermarket pumps and filtration on these trucks unless you are running dual CP pumps… replace the rail sensor
 

flan

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Could be rail pressure sender, rail relief valve, FCA on the CP3 or lift pump problems. Unless you want to unload the parts cannon on it a little more diagnosis is in order.
 

Billywaters795

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Good lord these parts are higher than I was expecting. Any website y’all recommend to order the FCA, Rail Relief and Rail pressure sensor from? Probably just going to buy all three and replace them.
 

flan

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The last rail psi sender I replaced (about a year ago) I got a Bosch from rock auto. Don’t cheap out on off brand parts!

Have you checked your lift pump to verify it’s working? Disconnect supply and bump the starter, if you get about a quart in 30 sec it’s doing ok. Without a proper scanner which reads rail psi, etc that’s about the only free testing you can do that I know of.
 

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