BantamX + Baja Designs LP9 Pro Implementation & Information

[desert_wagon]

has anyone used this setup? it says do not power wire 1 and 4 at same time. So what I came up with should work however if someone is using this setup let me know what you did to get it working.

 

[TonyT]

Give them a call. The Bantam unit in my Jeep was not working correctly and giving me intermittent issues of not powering circuits even though it showed it was. You may have it right, and the problem lies within the unit.

John was able to walk me through several ways of updating and resetting the unit until we found one that worked. Seems to be fine now, but I have zero confidence in it.

I didn't end up going with LP9's, but when I mentioned I was, John said give him a call when setting it up. So, there might be a special trick they can fill you in on.

 

[KnuckleHead]

Please post the solution if you do call them. This will be the set up I am going with...the LP9's are sitting in my garage waiting for the truck to show up. I was planning on just not wiring the low beam wire, but if there is a way I would do it.

 

[desert_wagon]

Please post the solution if you do call them. This will be the set up I am going with...the LP9's are sitting in my garage waiting for the truck to show up. I was planning on just not wiring the low beam wire, but if there is a way I would do it.

ok went with BamtamX & 4 LP9's, attached is the schematic, the harness(172) can be modified easily

if you don't want to hit low beam/on then high beam you can link the high beam to the low beam/on button.

 

[desert_wagon]

Minor update: data sheets say 7.6amps@13.8volts per light as a set it should be ~15.2-15.5amps, this is grossly incorrect. I measured 23 to 24 amps at 12.2volts on high beam and 9 amps at low beam per pair. Used a calibrated fluke dc amp probe. Tested 2 sets using a stock harness "172" and my modified one.

 

[KnuckleHead]

Minor update: data sheets say 7.6amps@13.8volts, this is grossly incorrect. I measured 23 to 24 amps at 12.2volts on high beam and 9 amps at low beam. Used a calibrated fluke dc amp probe. Tested 2 sets using a stock harness "172" and my modified one.

Thanks for the info

 

[desert_wagon]

Now to figure out where to tap into the running lights.......

 

[KnuckleHead]

In another thread someone posted that the clearance light fuse is F79 if that helps.

Do you have the front camera? Do those totally block it?

 

[desert_wagon]

In another thread someone posted that the clearance light fuse is F79 if that helps.

Do you have the front camera? Do those totally block it?

Yea that was me asking, I could use a fuse tap, not thinking I like the idea of drilling a small hole in the fusebox

 

[KnuckleHead]

Do those block your front camera? I have the same light bar and 2 LP9s sitting in my garage waiting on the truck and wonder if I should go with 2 more LP9s or something a little smaller for the middle lights. Id really like to retain the front cam if possible.

 

[desert_wagon]

Yes they do block it quite alot. You can see a sliver in the middle but that's about it. Enough the get an idea of how close you are.

 

[2manyprojects]

Yea that was me asking, I could use a fuse tap, not thinking I like the idea of drilling a small hole in the fusebox

There are some molded-in holes between the rows of fuses in the fuse box. I was able to run 2 fusetaps and their wires through one hole, running wires out through the bottom of the fuse box. This provides "ign on" and "lights on" signals for my SwitchPro 9100, without any permanent mods to the OEM wiring or fuse panel.

 

[desert_wagon]

There are some molded-in holes between the rows of fuses in the fuse box. I was able to run 2 fusetaps and their wires through one hole, running wires out through the bottom of the fuse box. This provides "ign on" and "lights on" signals for my SwitchPro 9100, without any permanent mods to the OEM wiring or fuse panel.

gonna have to poke aroud a bit. thanks for the info on access holes

 

[KnuckleHead]

Yes they do block it quite alot. You can see a sliver in the middle but that's about it. Enough the get an idea of how close you are.

What about the 360 camera stuff? Does it interfere with that too?

 

[desert_wagon]

What about the 360 camera stuff? Does it interfere with that too?

just the front a bit, the rest is good. If there was an adapter to move it 6" out, that would fix it.

 

[desert_wagon]

There are some molded-in holes between the rows of fuses in the fuse box. I was able to run 2 fusetaps and their wires through one hole, running wires out through the bottom of the fuse box. This provides "ign on" and "lights on" signals for my SwitchPro 9100, without any permanent mods to the OEM wiring or fuse panel.

which fuse did you tap? for lights on? F79 by any chance?

 

[2manyprojects]

Yes! F79 for "Lights On" and F91 for "Ign On" power. Taps were tight to each other, but fit and work well.

 

[desert_wagon]

Yes! F79 for "Lights On" and F91 for "Ign On" power. Taps were tight to each other, but fit and work well.

cool, now to muck around a bit and get this setup...next on the agenda is an old school foot pedal switch for brights or to toggle between amber/clear/off

 

[2manyprojects]

I hear you. I want to still find a "high Beam on" signal, and set my SwitchPro up to give me "flamethrower" mode, where all forward lights come on/off with the high beams. So far the only place i've found is to tap into the harness that goes to one of the headlights, but I don't want to cut into the harness. I set this up on one of my Land Cruisers, and it was very handy. Ironically, it was fairly easy to hardwire, but with all the can-bus tech it seems much more challenging.

 

[Russty__]

Ive got Lp9 Pros., Lp4s, squadrons as well as a switch pro ready for the PW. Were you able to wire the low beam and high beam separately on the Lp9s?