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$27K turned to $34K! Screwed Over!! Need Rear Differential.

13Pwrwgn

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2013 Ram Power Wagon. Paid 27K had 109K miles. Need OEM part #0517301AB that has electric locker. Mine is toast on truck I just bought. I was completely screwed over on this deal. Backstory I paid $27K for as is used 2013 Power Wagon. 1st needed brakes all the way around that was 1600$. 2nd needs new rear Bilstein Shocks$439. 3rd Front axle diff seals leaking and pinion seeping so $1897 to repair front diff. 4th now for the clunking sound isolated to rear diff. so was openedand this was found see images below. Here is link to full Diagnostic Report Of course bought as is and now im looking at 7600 in repairs because rear diff cannot be found so I am gonna have to get whole rear end complete for $3211.99 totalling to $4086.99 for just that rear so yeah all in $7600. I'm kind of screwed as i just bought it and I'm stuck with it.

diff1.jpgdiff2.jpgWTF was this guy doing to cause this?? Just grinding around and floating in there. No idea how this thing was driving just fine.
 

13Pwrwgn

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Man, the look on the techs face when the new one shows up looking the same...
received_262962276092512.jpegreceived_203328159206469.jpeg
Ok here is a image of both sides as it was turned around and the one without paint dot it definitely chewed through.
 

AH64ID

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Crusty old shellback

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Are you at a Stealership trying to get the work done?

I'd find a good mechanic and get a second quote.

Or do it yoiurself and save a bunch of money.

$1600 for brake pads and rotors and installed seems high. You can get a good aftermarket set with drilled and slotted rotors for about $500. Takes a few basic tools and a jack to change them.
 

H3LZSN1P3R

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Crusty old shellback

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Thats the highest end brakes you can get for these trucks IIRC
They are good brakes, better than OEM and are cheaper than OEM. I've run them on my F250 and 1500 Silverado.
I paid $350 delivered to my door for the F250. Like I said, price has gone way up since I did mine about 4 years ago.
 

gimmie11s

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They are good brakes, better than OEM and are cheaper than OEM. I've run them on my F250 and 1500 Silverado.
I paid $350 delivered to my door for the F250. Like I said, price has gone way up since I did mine about 4 years ago.

Not sure why Summit is so high, but rock auto has same kit for $440.



EDIT.. I see the rotors in the summit kit are drilled.... Not something id want on a HD truck anyway.
 

BikePilot

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A 10yr old truck with 100k miles is going to need stuff fixed, and if you outsource that to an expensive and possibly incompetent shop, well it'll be expensive. Generally if you are going to run old, high mileage trucks you need to at least be generally conversent mechanically, if not I recommend buying new and trading in at the end of the warranty period.

I see nothing wrong with that diff in the pictures. What are the symptoms? It's not terribly uncommon for the magnet to come loose, or so my local gear and axle guy says.
 

Crusty old shellback

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Never had any. And my brakes got hot as I used them. No brake fade either.
That's why they are drilled and slotted. To help get rid of dust and brake gasses as well as cooling.
 

elephantrider

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oh yah. aware of the backing science. it does happen. maybe not in our world. I personally wouldn't take a chance with em on my truck.
 

H3LZSN1P3R

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oh yah. aware of the backing science. it does happen. maybe not in our world. I personally wouldn't take a chance with em on my truck.
I have ran drilled rotors on my dually ever since the first replacement set of brakes same with most of my HD trucks as i can get them rather cheap. I have never had any issues with cracking and they have been worked hard. I have not seen any crack personally
 

13Pwrwgn

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A 10yr old truck with 100k miles is going to need stuff fixed, and if you outsource that to an expensive and possibly incompetent shop, well it'll be expensive. Generally if you are going to run old, high mileage trucks you need to at least be generally conversent mechanically, if not I recommend buying new and trading in at the end of the warranty period.

I see nothing wrong with that diff in the pictures. What are the symptoms? It's not terribly uncommon for the magnet to come loose, or so my local gear and axle guy says.
Yeah it is the gears inside the carrier that are shot. There is metal in the housing and case. Called and spoke to the tech working on it and he said there is no salvaging it. At this point it would be a full rebuild if i can find the parts and that it wil be cheaper to get that whole rear end they sourced and put it on. His theory is that the old transfer case caused the dmg to the whole drive train and that is why front pinion,differential and both drive shafts were replaced prior to me getting it. However whoever did the work didnt put new seals and or dmgd them when putting axle back together and they didnt clean out the vent tubes. Which is why there is a new transfer case and rear driveshaft but prior owner probably realised there was that much more wrong after throwing money at it and redoing and replacing what he did. Looks like I am going to learn the hard way on this one. Besides all of that he said everything looks and sounds really great on it. Zero rust anywhere under it. This shop is a reputable highly recommended shop by other shops in area i took it too 1st. Just out where I live everything is stupid costs including labor. Cost of living out here is insane!!! Hell gas is $4.69 to $4.99 a gallon and dont get me started on groceries and everything else out here. So being as how I do not have a shop space or the knowledge of fixing axles I'm SOL.
 

13Pwrwgn

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WOW! Didn't realize the cost went up so much. So with labor and if they did a fluid flush, price may be about right.

Yeah they did all the calipers, pads, rotors and a fluid flush. Brakes have gone way up in price. When i priced out it all and doing it myself i was left with its better to just let them do it with Heavy Duty brake components for towing.
 

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