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Transmission Recalibration Needed for Larger Tires

RAMNC76 said:
So pulled the right front off today. No ring. So I am assuming that the rest don’t have them either. Inside bore of that wheel is 125mm. I’m being told that that is a hubcentric wheel for my truck. Steering wheel doesn’t vibrate at all. Just feels like whole truck is a big black vibrator!!!
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I'm seeing Hub Bore is 121.3 mm, not 125mm
 
RAMNC76 said:
So pulled the right front off today. No ring. So I am assuming that the rest don’t have them either. Inside bore of that wheel is 125mm. I’m being told that that is a hubcentric wheel for my truck. Steering wheel doesn’t vibrate at all. Just feels like whole truck is a big black vibrator!!!
Click to expand...

Did you also look for a leftover star washer on the lugs? And as MikeXM said, it would be on the rear given your description of the problem.
 
I'd still check the drive shaft and make sure.
I thought mine was correct on a old blazer when I was chasing something similar. Finally pulled the drive shaft and sat it on level ground on the u joint ears. It was off by 1 tooth on the slip joint. I couldn't tell it just by looking.
 
Brewbud said:
Did you also look for a leftover star washer on the lugs? And as MikeXM said, it would be on the rear given your description of the problem.
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The wheel I pulled off had 6 star washers on 8 of the lugs. But on the back of the wheel where the lug holes are, they are counter bored to allow for room of the washers.
 
RAMNC76 said:
What did your ride feel like before the rings? When cruising, it's almost like I'm on a washboard road!
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Mine just had a vibration from about 45-65 mph and after getting tire balance checked i finally order the hub centric ring to fix the problem.
 
RAMNC76 said:
Bore of the wheel is 125mm
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I believe mine was 121.3 hub bore on the truck and 125.2 on the wheel so that is the hub-centric rings i ordered from justforwheels.com .
 
RAMNC76 said:
Correct
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Are you using conical lug nuts? Most aftermarket wheels are lug-centric. Actually, most adapter/centering rings are just plastic rings to help you start the wheel mounting. They wouldn't last long if they had the actual load on them. It's the conical lugs nuts that keep the wheel centered. Only thing is to do most/all of the torqueing with no load on the wheel. So the nuts can sit themselves centered.
I would be very surprised if the larger bore diameter is your problem.
 
MikeXM said:
Are you using conical lug nuts? Most aftermarket wheels are lug-centric. Actually, most adapter/centering rings are just plastic rings to help you start the wheel mounting. They wouldn't last long if they had the actual load on them. It's the conical lugs nuts that keep the wheel centered. Only thing is to do most/all of the torqueing with no load on the wheel. So the nuts can sit themselves centered.
I would be very surprised if the larger bore diameter is your problem.
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Yes. I am using splined conical lug nuts on the wheels.
 
MikeXM said:
Are you using conical lug nuts? Most aftermarket wheels are lug-centric. Actually, most adapter/centering rings are just plastic rings to help you start the wheel mounting. They wouldn't last long if they had the actual load on them. It's the conical lugs nuts that keep the wheel centered. Only thing is to do most/all of the torqueing with no load on the wheel. So the nuts can sit themselves centered.
I would be very surprised if the larger bore diameter is your problem.
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Fyi my hub centric rings are aluminum not plastic and really center the wheels well. I know some companies sell the plastic ones which I agree would be a waste of money and probably not last .
 
RAMNC76 said:
Yes. I am using splined conical lug nuts on the wheels.
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In that case, what I recommend is to try the two things I said earlier.
- Make a test run at 80psi to be 100% its not related to flat spots. Test run at least 10miles. I know you did a way longer run, but if the pressure doesn't build enough it could still be the problem.
- Move rear wheels to the front one at the time. See if that transfer the problem to the steering wheel. Be careful not to be on the ground when you torque the nuts. Or do as much as you can and finish on the ground.
 
RAMNC76 said:
The wheel I pulled off had 6 star washers on 8 of the lugs. But on the back of the wheel where the lug holes are, they are counter bored to allow for room of the washers.
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I would still remove the star washers if I was you. Mine looked like they would clear but after removing the wheel later I found indentations in the wheel so I removed them along with adding the hub centric rings at the same time .
 
Cpschevy said:
I would still remove the star washers if I was you. Mine looked like they would clear but after removing the wheel later I found indentations in the wheel so I removed them along with adding the hub centric rings at the same time .
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Good point.
 
Go back to stock wheels and go for a long drive to rule out/in the problem is in the aftermarket wheels.
 
Update: Took all 4 wheels off today and removed star washers. There were 2 on each rear and 6 on each front. Also lowered psi to 55 each tire. A little better, but still feels like somethings not right!
 
RAMNC76 said:
Update: Took all 4 wheels off today and removed star washers. There were 2 on each rear and 6 on each front. Also lowered psi to 55 each tire. A little better, but still feels like somethings not right!
Click to expand...
Did you at least swap the wheels back to front? Did it change vibration source? Feel it the steering now or no change?
 
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