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Lets talk RV tires

Brutal_HO said:
OK, that prompts 2 questions.

When did GY start making G rated Endurance?

Why are they only inflated to 80PSI? (G rated would be 110PSI max)


ETA: Seems GY updated their load inflation chart and the 235/85R16 is rated to 110PSI through the rating classification is still vague.

Do you have a pic of the sidewall if that's the size you have? (I have 235/80R16 on my reflection and they're only max 80PSI.)
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I mis "typed" yesterday, after looking at the camper they are GY Endurance, load range E (235/80R16). They're max cold PSI is 80.
 
when I bought my “new to me” 5th wheel, after toting it home, I freaked when I really looked it over. It had run of the mill E rated tires at 3040lbs per tire. 5th GVWR is 16000, well the math scared me, so 1st upgrade was a set of g rated rubber at 4409 ea. I prefer a little margin of safety in my tires. I totally missed that on my inspections crawling in out and under the trailer:( oh well I bought it cheap enough.
 
DMC1 said:
On your 235/80R16’s do you run 80 psi cold? Same tires I have. Confused a bit here. I thought the 80 psi on the side wall is the max, not necessarliy what they should be inflated too.
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You are correct. I use load/psi tables to set my PSIon my 3500 dually and my 33 ft toyhauler.
 
Bozo said:
when I bought my “new to me” 5th wheel, after toting it home, I freaked when I really looked it over. It had run of the mill E rated tires at 3040lbs per tire. 5th GVWR is 16000, well the math scared me, so 1st upgrade was a set of g rated rubber at 4409 ea. I prefer a little margin of safety in my tires. I totally missed that on my inspections crawling in out and under the trailer:( oh well I bought it cheap enough.
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What are your axles rated for? I found that E rated tires were over 90% of rated capacity when my trailer was just over 11k. My trailer max is 12k and I have 6k axles. Usually have 2000-2300 pounds on the pin. I now have G rated tires that I run at 85 PSI.
 
Just bought my Courgar 24rds 5th wheel with China Bombs ST225/75R15E.. so I have to replace them but availability is my problem here
 
I just mounted a set of Sailun S637T, 14 ply, Load Range G tires that support 4,080 lbs each at 110 PSI. Also rated up to 75 MPH. These went on a Grand Design Reflection 311BHS. 11,368 dry with 2,180 pin. They were $200 each.
 
I did run into a potential issue on a fifth wheel a few years ago, and that was most trailer rims are stamped with a max pressure. Usually located on the backside of the wheel spoke. I was replacing tires and saw that on a RV forum. I checked and sure enough, there it was. I was fortunate that the max wheel pressure was 110 psi, but some manufactures stamp their max psi at 80 apparently. My latest fifth wheel came with G rated tires and 110 psi recommended on the sticker. I run 100.
 
Brutal_HO said:
You literally can't make this stuff up.
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Just be glad you're talking to the nuclear engineer and not the nuclear mechanic who wouldn't word it so nicely!!

Side note, I'm not a nuclear mechanic, but have worked with many.

Sent from my SM-G981U using Tapatalk
 
I am using Goodyear Unisteel G614 RST and it works great. The truck tires are very heavy at 57 pounds each.
 
I go by the manufacturer tire ratings at certain pressures. I used to just air up to max but after more research using trailer weight its plain to see (for most of us) that better wear and stability is achieved when going by the charts. I now run 70 psi for the weight being carried.


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Run the max of the tire inflation as it keeps the tires cool and like brutal said your tires will be weather beaten before they wear out…. I replace my camper tires every 5 years because i can put the old ones on the dump trailer and if i blow one on the camper it will be a disaster if the tread separates and starts to take out the fiberglass the dump trailer never goes far and the fenders are 3/16 checker plate that can take a bit more of a beating lol
 
H3LZSN1P3R said:
Run the max of the tire inflation as it keeps the tires cool and like brutal said your tires will be weather beaten before they wear out…. I replace my camper tires every 5 years because i can put the old ones on the dump trailer and if i blow one on the camper it will be a disaster if the tread separates and starts to take out the fiberglass the dump trailer never goes far and the fenders are 3/16 checker plate that can take a bit more of a beating lol
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Believe it or not I am one that wears my tires out. 49K miles in three years on my RV. Not many do that.
 
H3LZSN1P3R said:
Run the max of the tire inflation as it keeps the tires cool and like brutal said your tires will be weather beaten before they wear out…. I replace my camper tires every 5 years because i can put the old ones on the dump trailer and if i blow one on the camper it will be a disaster if the tread separates and starts to take out the fiberglass the dump trailer never goes far and the fenders are 3/16 checker plate that can take a bit more of a beating lol
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Running the max PSI on the sidewall of the tire without a load relationship will cause the trailer suspension to be more harsh than needed. It was a cargo trailer and not a camper, but I saw a video where the fellow was having major issues towing his cargo trailer with two motorcycles in it. The suspension did not seem to be able to handle it, even though the trailer was "rated" for that load. Once he put in the recommended PSI for the weight it settled down and the suspension worked fine. Suspension is a system designed to work as a unit. Overloading one aspect will cause issues with another.

In 2016 I have a blowout. I was new to RV and large trailers then. I now run load range tires at 85 PSI on a trailer that is never over 12k. I have 6K axles. I set the tires to handle the load per wheel according to the manufacturer. I have not had a blow out since. I apply this method on all my trailers. Tire PSI based on the actual load.
 
RV_Goose said:
Running the max PSI on the sidewall of the tire without a load relationship will cause the trailer suspension to be more harsh than needed. It was a cargo trailer and not a camper, but I saw a video where the fellow was having major issues towing his cargo trailer with two motorcycles in it. The suspension did not seem to be able to handle it, even though the trailer was "rated" for that load. Once he put in the recommended PSI for the weight it settled down and the suspension worked fine. Suspension is a system designed to work as a unit. Overloading one aspect will cause issues with another.

In 2016 I have a blowout. I was new to RV and large trailers then. I now run load range tires at 85 PSI on a trailer that is never over 12k. I have 6K axles. I set the tires to handle the load per wheel according to the manufacturer. I have not had a blow out since. I apply this method on all my trailers. Tire PSI based on the actual load.
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Really depends on the manufacture but alot of the trailers i tow show max pressure (80/65 depending on the load rating if the tires it comes with) of what the tires can handle now if you upgrade to a higher load index then i would run what the Original tires call for like my 5th wheel came with D rated tires i put E rated tires but still run the max pressure of 65 like the D rated tires specify and the trailer sticker calls for
 
RV_Goose said:
Running the max PSI on the sidewall of the tire without a load relationship will cause the trailer suspension to be more harsh than needed. It was a cargo trailer and not a camper, but I saw a video where the fellow was having major issues towing his cargo trailer with two motorcycles in it. The suspension did not seem to be able to handle it, even though the trailer was "rated" for that load. Once he put in the recommended PSI for the weight it settled down and the suspension worked fine. Suspension is a system designed to work as a unit. Overloading one aspect will cause issues with another.

In 2016 I have a blowout. I was new to RV and large trailers then. I now run load range tires at 85 PSI on a trailer that is never over 12k. I have 6K axles. I set the tires to handle the load per wheel according to the manufacturer. I have not had a blow out since. I apply this method on all my trailers. Tire PSI based on the actual load.
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Spot on.

It still amazes me the people that will tell others to put load range G Sailun or similar ribbed tires on a 12K 5th wheel trailer with only 5-6K axles and wheels that are questionable to run @110psi, without at least suggesting they run at much lower pressure and according the tire maker's load inflation chart. My goto GY Endurance has more than enough load capacity for trailers up to around 14K and the largest size shows to be able to run up to 110PSI (G rated territory) that would probably work on a 16K 5th. That said, if I was well over 14K, then I'd also run a ribbed 14 ply G rated tire.
 
Brutal_HO said:
Spot on.

It still amazes me the people that will tell others to put load range G Sailun or similar ribbed tires on a 12K 5th wheel trailer with only 5-6K axles and wheels that are questionable to run @110psi, without at least suggesting they run at much lower pressure and according the tire maker's load inflation chart. My goto GY Endurance has more than enough load capacity for trailers up to around 14K and the largest size shows to be able to run up to 110PSI (G rated territory) that would probably work on a 16K 5th. That said, if I was well over 14K, then I'd also run a ribbed 14 ply G rated tire.
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My 2008 WolfPack 295WP came with E rated tires. We bought it in 2016, and I was an RV newby then. We had a blowout. The tire guy explained that the E rated tires were at max capacity, and the G rated tires would allow use to run 5 PSI more, and have a stronger tire.

I've had my spare rim off and looked all over that rim. Same as the other 4 that are mounted. There is not any max PSI rating on the rim. Only a load max weight rating. I run 85 PSI with metal valve stems on my rims.
 
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