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All purpose ball mount recommendation

I transport high end boats for a living and log over 150K miles per year... DO NOT BUY ALUMINUM HITCHES. Geezus Dudes... They are JUNK! I have seen SO many nice trailers on the side of the highway due to hitch failures.

Buy the best... BULLETPROOF HITCHES (BPH). When you are not using it, add one of their accessories like the step, lights or whatever to increase it's value in your day to day use. I have the 10" drop with the frame support bars. When hauling an 18K+ boat through the mountains and in the Midwest where crosswinds can exceed 50mph gusts, is not the time to worry about the hitch.

BPH have a perfect fit, no adaptor needed and if you call them, mention my name, David Wilks & Alden Transport... they will give you a discount!

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Buy the appropriate hitch for the job. Normal people aren't pulling 18k lbs boats in 50 mph winds uphill both ways in the snow. You do you, but it's bad advice to say "Geezus Dudes" when someone doesn't go buy triple the hitch they will ever need. One size does not fit all.
 
Keep it old school and just use a standard hitch? I have the same 2-5/16" coupler on both of my bumper pull trailers and just leave this hitch in my truck's receiver 24/7. hitch.jpg
 
If anyone is close enough to bust their shin walking past my truck, then they're too close to my truck. LOL
I use the same locally for my camper. Never busted my shins on that one. I have learned to take the WDH head off ASAP after setting camp though.
 
Buy the appropriate hitch for the job. Normal people aren't pulling 18k lbs boats in 50 mph winds uphill both ways in the snow. You do you, but it's bad advice to say "Geezus Dudes" when someone doesn't go buy triple the hitch they will ever need. One size does not fit all.
So it is okay to say it is "Bad Advice" when my Experience shares otherwise?

Maybe today the OP is only pulling something lightweight, but most people do not have the understanding that "G-Forces" when towing affect directly the capability of a hitch... especially when adding the leverage of dropping it several inches. Its fine if you want to run junk and a single hitch level, but the difference between the correct adjustable hitch and the cheapo one you buy on Amazon, eBay or your local parts store is hardly close to the deductible it will cost if & when it fails. I've seen many people with the "right" hitch for their setup, still fail simply because a $2 metal pin they bought at Tractor Supply failed, causing the entire trailer to come loose. Now what? Are you going to say, "Only Buy Chains Rated For The Load...?!"

There are plenty of YouTube videos to prove my point.
 
So it is okay to say it is "Bad Advice" when my Experience shares otherwise?

Maybe today the OP is only pulling something lightweight, but most people do not have the understanding that "G-Forces" when towing affect directly the capability of a hitch... especially when adding the leverage of dropping it several inches. Its fine if you want to run junk and a single hitch level, but the difference between the correct adjustable hitch and the cheapo one you buy on Amazon, eBay or your local parts store is hardly close to the deductible it will cost if & when it fails. I've seen many people with the "right" hitch for their setup, still fail simply because a $2 metal pin they bought at Tractor Supply failed, causing the entire trailer to come loose. Now what? Are you going to say, "Only Buy Chains Rated For The Load...?!"

There are plenty of YouTube videos to prove my point.
Sure thing dude.
 
Curt adjustable is nice and the price is right it has a turn over ball and good for 21k at only 300$ cad
 
I have the Fastway, it works just fine. I will say however it rusts pretty quick, if that bothers you I would go for something else.
I mean.. it is steel. Once the paint gets rubbed or chipped off it is gonna start rusting... I just take it off, clean it up and re-spray.. I mean, it's a hitch, not a fashion statement.
 
I mean.. it is steel. Once the paint gets rubbed or chipped off it is gonna start rusting... I just take it off, clean it up and re-spray.. I mean, it's a hitch, not a fashion statement.
I agree with you... was just letting the OP know in case he cares about it.
 
I mean.. it is steel. Once the paint gets rubbed or chipped off it is gonna start rusting... I just take it off, clean it up and re-spray.. I mean, it's a hitch, not a fashion statement.
I just leave it that nice rust color otherwise if be painting it yearly lol
 
I appreciate all of the advice and you have left me with a good place to start in looking into these models mentioned. I do have a question though about why some of the models mentioned have such a high capacity (14k, 18k, etc.). When you get into towing something that heavy, wouldn't people use a WDH instead of just a plain ball mount like these?
 
I appreciate all of the advice and you have left me with a good place to start in looking into these models mentioned. I do have a question though about why some of the models mentioned have such a high capacity (14k, 18k, etc.). When you get into towing something that heavy, wouldn't people use a WDH instead of just a plain ball mount like these?
Not necessarily because if the load is centered/ balanced over trailer axles, tongue weights are well within limits.
 
Bulletproof has worked perfectly for me. Even for towing a lighter trailer I would not penny pinch on a hitch. Buy the best, you only write that check once.
 
Just picked up a b&w today, really impressed how solid that thing is, especially coming from a 5klb Uhaul hitch haha


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Is something like this Weigh Safe a good choice? Looks like it is around $100 less than the Bulletproof or B&W and seems like decent quality. And is an 8" drop going to work with most applications for Ram 2500, stock height?
 
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