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BantamX + Baja Designs LP9 Pro Implementation & Information

I'm not familiar with the Lp9s, and have not yet located a "high beam" specific input to use as a trigger for the SwitchPro 9100. As mentioned above, I used two fuse taps to get the "ign on" and "lights on" signals the SwitchPro requires for operation. The best option I've considered for a high beam signal is to physically tap into the harness that connects to the left side front headlight assembly. Haven't done it yet, and am reluctant to cut into the OEM harness right now.
 
Russty__ said:
Ive got Lp9 Pros., Lp4s, squadrons as well as a switch pro ready for the PW. Were you able to wire the low beam and high beam separately on the Lp9s?
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Lp9 pro and race I believe have separate low/high, the sport do not
 
eldedo said:
Lp9 pro and race I believe have separate low/high, the sport do not
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Yes I know, I have the Lp9 Pros. I had Lp6 pros on my Tacoma which also had a Highbeam and low beam function.
 
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eldedo said:
be aware, low beam and high beam can not be on at the same time. I accomplished isolation by modding the wiring harness I get from them, see first post.
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They cant? The factory harness they send you with the 2 way switch, controls Lo beam on only and then ALL on as "High Beams"
 
Russty__ said:
They cant? The factory harness they send you with the 2 way switch, controls Lo beam on only and then ALL on as "High Beams"
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yes it is a double throw double pole with an odd double isolation config with the relay. So I proposed on the normally closed side(low beam) go to ch1, then the normally open side goes to high beam, So basically you turn on low, you get low then turn on high beam and it switches the relay to the normally open side and you get high beam. I attached a schematic of how its wired in the 4th post. I show their stock harness and the modification needed to use it with spod/switchpro.
 
Copy I see that, thanks! I thought you meant you cannot have the other 4 “low beam” LED’s illuminated when high beam is active. I was like what? That makes no sense lol.
 
eldedo said:
Now to figure out where to tap into the running lights.......
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So did you drill holes in the mounting tabs for the 2 smaller bolts that go on either side of the main big bolt for the bracket? I got mine on with just the one big bolt and would feel better with all three holding the bracket on, but it looks like drilling the hole might hit the crease on the mounting tab.
 
KnuckleHead said:
So did you drill holes in the mounting tabs for the 2 smaller bolts that go on either side of the main big bolt for the bracket? I got mine on with just the one big bolt and would feel better with all three holding the bracket on, but it looks like drilling the hole might hit the crease on the mounting tab.
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Yup used security bits
 
slight update:
tied F79 into input 3, setup button for momentary and non-momentary, running lights come on with non-momentary but however it doesn't turn off when truck is turned off. So decided to just relay it from F79.
 
eldedo said:
slight update:
tied F79 into input 3, setup button for momentary and non-momentary, running lights come on with non-momentary but however it doesn't turn off when truck is turned off. So decided to just relay it from F79.
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Interesting. I just put an add a fuse in F79 and ran the yellow wires to that so the amber backlight comes on with the park lights. That works fine.
 
KnuckleHead said:
Interesting. I just put an add a fuse in F79 and ran the yellow wires to that so the amber backlight comes on with the park lights. That works fine.
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yea, think thats what ill end up doing. Just had the idea of keeping everything centralized, but doesn't seem to be worth the headache. Wonder how much current the main circuit is pulling.
 
Went with the LP6 Pros, BantamX and Randy Ellis light bar. Fuse tapped into the F79 clearance lights.

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