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Horrible towing experience with 2020 Ram 2500 6.7L Cummins

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LCD

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First time towing with new 2020 Ram 2500 6.7L Cummins. I wasn't able to dial in my WDH because the high tail end of this truck prevented me from getting the hitch head low enough to tow the TT level; awaiting a new shank that will allow the hitch head to mount lower. Anyways, the 34' 7,500 lbs. TT wasn't that out of level, yet I felt as if the load was kicking my butt. The bouncing generated by seams in the road was very concerning and I feel it shouldn't bounce the way it did for a 3/4T truck and medium size load. Also, the front end felt way too loose for a TT with approximately 700-800 lbs. of tongue weight with a somewhat functioning WDH. Any suggestions on aftermarket suspension parts that may improve the towing ride or other comments are greatly appreciated.
 
LCD said:
First time towing with new 2020 Ram 2500 6.7L Cummins. I wasn't able to dial in my WDH because the high tail end of this truck prevented me from getting the hitch head low enough to tow the TT level; awaiting a new shank that will allow the hitch head to mount lower. Anyways, the 34' 7,500 lbs. TT wasn't that out of level, yet I felt as if the load was kicking my butt. The bouncing generated by seams in the road was very concerning and I feel it shouldn't bounce the way it did for a 3/4T truck and medium size load. Also, the front end felt way too loose for a TT with approximately 700-800 lbs. of tongue weight with a somewhat functioning WDH. Any suggestions on aftermarket suspension parts that may improve the towing ride or other comments are greatly appreciated.
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Try towing it without the WDH torsion bars hooked up see how it handles the lower shank will help a ton as a level trailer is a happy trailer....
 
A proper setup WDH makes all the difference on the 2500 due to coil springs imo. I have a 2500 CTD as well to which I added the Thuren 1" coils lift to in the front which made setting it up a bit more difficult. I ordered a new shank as the old one wouldn't work and re-did the entre setup and afterwards I'm still 1/2 higher in the rear with the 6500 lbs loaded / 800 lb tongue weight trailer and the bed loaded for travel. The truck and trailer are pecfectly level as well. It pulled it amazingly well, only issue is a very slight porpoising over stutter bumps. No sway, no wind issues and trucks don't affect it what so ever and Sumo Springs or such should stop the porpoising I feel.

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I’ve had this problem and seen many people wonder how to get this right. Try this. When you use your WD Bars, you’ll need to first hook the TT to the hitch ball. Once it’s engaged and locked, raise the TT jack until the TT actually starts to lift the rear of the truck. As the truck rear comes up the WD bars will line up with the TT frame and you will be able to lock them on. I wouldn’t tow anything w/o the WD bars. I tow a 10k TT with a 6.4 3500. BTW your hitch receiver should have multiple holes for adjustment. When I upgraded from a 1/2 to 1 Ton I had to drop mine about 3 inches as well as upgrade to a larger shank 2.5 inch.
 
You’re doing something wrong.

I think you should try it with a level trailer and without the WDH like was said above.

700-800lb of tongue weight barely squats my truck, less than an inch. My truck is very happy with just a ball and coupler and I have a hemi. You have more weight up front as ballast so it should be better.
 
The WDS is just that, a system. It transfers the weight towards the TT frame and not so much of a pinch point on the hitch ball. It also aids in sway and stability. It’s not a landscape trailer. Just because the rear of the truck can have a heavier payload doesn’t mean you sacrifice components of the hitch system made for towing heavy trailers. If you don’t use the WD bars you will undoubtedly get that porpoising motion because there is a lot of amplified weight when on open roads. The static weight while sitting still may be one thing but when your towing and bouncing up and down that weight is amplified by momentum. That’s my redneck physics lesson for today. Good luck.
 
NY-HD-RAM said:
I’ve had this problem and seen many people wonder how to get this right. Try this. When you use your WD Bars, you’ll need to first hook the TT to the hitch ball. Once it’s engaged and locked, raise the TT jack until the TT actually starts to lift the rear of the truck. As the truck rear comes up the WD bars will line up with the TT frame and you will be able to lock them on. I wouldn’t tow anything w/o the WD bars. I tow a 10k TT with a 6.4 3500. BTW your hitch receiver should have multiple holes for adjustment. When I upgraded from a 1/2 to 1 Ton I had to drop mine about 3 inches as well as upgrade to a larger shank 2.5 inch.
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I have seen enough bent trailer aframes from people doing this as your taking the weight of the truck and putting it on the a frame never have the trailer lift the truck at most you should only be taking the weight off the ball slightly
 
My stuff was all gooseneck, but my buddy bought a tag-along toy hauler when I still had my 2500 gasser, and I pulled it home from Quartzsite for him. No WD setup. I did have airbags, but only had @ 15-20 psi in them. No drama whatsoever.
 
^ I agree with rockcrawler, you are doing something wrong with the load balancing or setup. I tow that much (that little) with mine and have zero issues without using a WDH.

.
 
I towed my toyhauler for the second time fully loaded, Polaris sxs, 100 gallons water, food supplies, and all the other stuff that gets packed in the trailer and the truck as well. When I bought my 19 2500 CTD I ordered a new longer shank, set the WDH up and truck and trailer both sit level. The trailer loaded weighs in around 8500 and I haven't added air bags, towed just fine no issues.
 
H3LZSN1P3R said:
I have seen enough bent trailer aframes from people doing this as your taking the weight of the truck and putting it on the a frame never have the trailer lift the truck at most you should only be taking the weight off the ball slightly
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I’ve not seen that, I’ve been using this method with the same TT since 2017. It’s pretty much the only way to strap up the WDBs when the Truck rear and TT are to far apart to even bend the WD bars with the leverage bar. I understand the logic behind WD bars is to transfer the tongue weight, not the rear of the truck. Correct me if I’m wrong. I may have to rethink my own method.
 
NY-HD-RAM said:
I’ve not seen that, I’ve been using this method with the same TT since 2017. It’s pretty much the only way to strap up the WDBs when the Truck rear and TT are to far apart to even bend the WD bars with the leverage bar. I understand the logic behind WD bars is to transfer the tongue weight, not the rear of the truck. Correct me if I’m wrong. I may have to rethink my own method.
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I don't think you're doing anything wrong. I'm pretty sure most of the WDH instructions specifically indicate you need to do this.

There may be a case where a large number of experienced users make another recommendation, and that's certainly food for thought. However, when it comes to a decision between doing what the MFR says, or what some random lone internet expert says, go with the MFR,
 
NY-HD-RAM said:
The WDS is just that, a system. It transfers the weight towards the TT frame and not so much of a pinch point on the hitch ball. It also aids in sway and stability. It’s not a landscape trailer. Just because the rear of the truck can have a heavier payload doesn’t mean you sacrifice components of the hitch system made for towing heavy trailers. If you don’t use the WD bars you will undoubtedly get that porpoising motion because there is a lot of amplified weight when on open roads. The static weight while sitting still may be one thing but when your towing and bouncing up and down that weight is amplified by momentum. That’s my redneck physics lesson for today. Good luck.
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We bought a new TT last year and this was the recommended way to hook up the wds/sway bars. I would never get them attached otherwise.

Sent from my moto z3 using Tapatalk
 
Brutal_HO said:
I don't think you're doing anything wrong. I'm pretty sure most of the WDH instructions specifically indicate you need to do this.

There may be a case where a large number of experienced users make another recommendation, and that's certainly food for thought. However, when it comes to a decision between doing what the MFR says, or what some random lone internet expert says, go with the MFR,
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I have never seen any that say lift the rear of the truck with the trailer jack... most say hook up with no load on the ball then the WDH head should be adjusted so you can hook the chains up.... i have set many up for people going by what the manual says....
 
Its an Eaz-Lift with sway control, and when I bought my toyhauler and that WDH, the dealer described doing the same thing to attach the bars. My friend has the bars with chains and does the same.
 
Well there ya go. I have an ez lift with WDB and chains. That’s what I do to get it straight. It’s only for a few minutes anyway. Let us k ow how you make out on your next row.
 
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