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Let’s see your wagons with 35 and 37’s

jadmt said:
northridge4x4 can help you out.
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Their website wasn’t very helpful as it would only allow me to input 2021 Jeep products into vehicle search. But I called them and Stan the man helped me out, the AEV ProCal Snap is on order for them which means I won’t see it for 6.5 weeks ish, but I ordered the truck last Friday so it’s got plenty of time to get here!
 
dave41079 said:
I used AlfaOBD and an OBDlink MX+. The OBDlink LX will also work. I think I spent $100 in total between the OBD reader and the app. It also allowed me to change tire pressures, keep my foglights on with high beams, show the current gear in the EVIC, among many other things. It does take a little bit of work, but it's overall pretty easy to use.
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You left out the cost for the required security bypass cable (KAOdTECH recommended)

But I agree AlfaOBD is the way to go since there's so much more it can do.

Sent from my work avoidance device
 
Brutal_HO said:
You left out the cost for the required security bypass cable (KAOdTECH recommended)

But I agree AlfaOBD is the way to go since there's so much more it can do.

Sent from my work avoidance device
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I absolutely did. Thanks for picking up my slack.
 
In the BMW world we had coders we could pay to code our cars like AlfaOBD does. Of course lots of people did it on their own too, but it was a convenient service that was provided for some people.
 
AnthonyD1978 said:
Could the rub be fixed with minimal massaging of the fender liner? I want to go from 35 to 37 and it would be nice to keep my factory wheels.
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It's so minimal that I haven't even investigated it yet, but I suspect its actually rubbing the radius arm...not the fender liner. I can verify when I get back out to my truck.
 
I don't understand how guys are not getting rubbing on stock set ups with 37's. I have Toyo 35's with proper wheels ie AEV and when fully flexed am a RCH from rubbing. Not that rubbing is any big deal in most cases.
 
jadmt said:
I don't understand how guys are not getting rubbing on stock set ups with 37's. I have Toyo 35's with proper wheels ie AEV and when fully flexed am a RCH from rubbing. Not that rubbing is any big deal in most cases.
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In my case, the KM3 tires are a little undersized for a 37 but I have zero doubts that I would rub more if articulated on some trail obstacles. Hopefully, when my Thuren order arrives that will be taken care of.
 
jadmt said:
I don't understand how guys are not getting rubbing on stock set ups with 37's. I have Toyo 35's with proper wheels ie AEV and when fully flexed am a RCH from rubbing. Not that rubbing is any big deal in most cases.
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That's weird. I'm on 35" duratracs that measure to 34.8". On factory wheels I'm not rubbing on or off the trails (at least that I've noticed so far). Next time I'm out I will disconnect the sway bar and purposely max out the travel and go full lock on the steering to see.
 
AnthonyD1978 said:
That's weird. I'm on 35" duratracs that measure to 34.8". On factory wheels I'm not rubbing on or off the trails (at least that I've noticed so far). Next time I'm out I will disconnect the sway bar and purposely max out the travel and go full lock on the steering to see.
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Do your duratracs actually measure 34.8 when mounted? that is just what the manufacturer says they are. they are closer to 33.5 mounted on a rig. We should get what we pay for but we get shorted :). Not my photo but found on a jeep site. Tire has 2000 miles
 

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jadmt said:
I don't understand how guys are not getting rubbing on stock set ups with 37's. I have Toyo 35's with proper wheels ie AEV and when fully flexed am a RCH from rubbing. Not that rubbing is any big deal in most cases.
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Rubbing where though? That's the key. With your wheels, you're more likely to rub on the fender liner, which is a whole different thing than @TrailWhale who is likely running on his radius arms and potentially sway bar.

Also no tires measure up when mounted and on a vehicle, just like a '21 car or truck comes out in '20. It's just an industry standard that creates a different language we all have to learn.
 
jadmt said:
Do your duratracs actually measure 34.8 when mounted? that is just what the manufacturer says they are. they are closer to 33.5 mounted on a rig. We should get what we pay for but we get shorted :). Not my photo but found on a jeep site. Tire has 2000 miles
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No, when manufactures quote diameter specs that's unmounted. Too many variables for them to quote the diameter with it mounted to a vehicle.

Took some trails over the weekend and my 35" (34.8") with OEM wheels are no where near rubbing anything (fenders, arms, etc) even with the sway bar disconnected and at full lock. I could see if I had 37s where it might rub the radius arms, but it actually looks like it might clear.

I know this is not full extension, but after taking a look at the clearances I don't think it makes a difference. I think it's less fender clearance and more radius arm clearance, as some people just mentioned. At least for OEM wheel specs. Anyone know the factory wheel offset?

IMG_0553.jpg

IMG_0554.jpg
 
+45 mm or there abouts. I can remember for sure I thought I took a photo before selling mine but can't find it. It is imprinted on the backside of the wheels
 
AnthonyD1978 said:
So the AEV wheels, which are the standard to fit 37s, push the wheel out about 0.7". This is probably to give it extra clearance on the radius arms if you run a wider tire. I may try to do 37s on a the factory wheels like @TrailWhale . Anyone else here actually tested this?
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I'd be interested in your results.
 
The AEV wheel's 17x8.5" back spacing is advertised at 5.8" and the stock wheel is 6.3" (calculated from 45.72mm offset). We must be careful when talking back spacing vs offset. as the wheel width changes everything, so you cannot really compare them side by side. The stock wheel sits 0.5" farther inward than the AEV. The AEV is 0.5" wider so the outside edge of the wheel should be a total 1" farther outward. The 0.5" of back spacing you are not getting from the AEV wheel is what is causing your tire to rub on the radius arm (if it does) with the stock wheel.

If one decided that a 1/4" spacer was an option, the question would be, is this enough to fix the rubbing issue under full lock? Every tire is different and couple that with fabrication tolerances, and you have a trial and error situation. If it is, and you are comfortable with it, then you saved yourself about $1k in wheels. If it does not, then you are out $40, and have to buy wheels anyway.
 
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